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Everything posted by billcoe
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Welcome. This one looks a bit runout. Bryon, check your PMs in @ 5 min. BTW, awesome shit, great pic: too lazy to look it up, but wasn't that Hong route 5.11D?
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I wish I could....workin. I thought you were doing the steroids for the oak? BTW, any thoughts about the spraying here? Link
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________________________________________________________________ Books: "The Rising Sun" by John Toland. Titan: by Ron Chernow. or how about "Complete Idiot's Guide to Biblical Mysteries" by Donald Ryan ? It's very well done and interesting I thought, and I'm not saying that just cause he posts here.
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try multiple personalities with the one you've got It's already getting pretty crowded up there in the skull area.
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Bill is thinking he needs multiple avatars too.
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Either way, Arch might show up looking for some good oral (Paris Hilton voice) That's hot!
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Yup, I see Pass the Pitons Pete raves about adjustable and claims that they are the "better way" cause you can pull yourself up with them (using your arms). I've only found that it slows you down. Since I can only do 3 pullups anyway, well, I've got a real limited day if I started doing that stuff.
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Markmcmillop Pogrom, in case you missed it, NOW is a time to do a Homer Simpson "DOHHHH" It must be hard to run multiple avatars. Where's the Dru/G-spotter/Decristo dude to weight in with this?
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Sure thing nodder: we all appreciate how you had the numbers just memorized! bhhhwwwwhaahaaa! Maybe someones a little sore cause they got scooped on this? Link
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I use the climbing rope. Faster stronger simpler.
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How about a full report here after you try them out Dan?
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The Dash for trash is coming up and I can bring em then. If you need them sooner, lets just hook up. My arm is all tweak (most of my joints), and I'm taking the next few days off, so call or email me.
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CONCUR. BTW, Dan, the best fifi for hard aid is an adjustable one, and the best aiders are like ladders, and have the rungs on tops closer together. IMO not like this: Like this and this: Lot of personal preference here. I climbed on home made, hand tied steps for years and years and it was fine. Then a real cold, real windy ascent of the WF of Monkey with that mank brought home the value of the ladder steps. I have a couple of yates adjustable daisys I'll loan you if you have a route in mind and you just want to see. These are the ones with the built in screamers. *Cough* Gearwhore* Cough*
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In case you are unaware, Spray has moved to the Yard sale. PS, the bone can hackysack like a sick MF. Shocking. Porter, next time we'll take care to invite you early so you don't get all pissy.
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(Borat voice) VErryyyy nice. Veryyyy nice indeed! Edited to add, Kevin was trying to round up people via this thread who might not had heard. You all know how uncommunicative I can be in case you were wondering why I didn't call:-)
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As a dad, as a climber, and as a concerned person.
billcoe replied to RuMR's topic in Climber's Board
Got to agree with you. It makes you wonder if this guy has any outdoor experience or if he's just trolling. -
[TR] Vinales Cuba - Various 9/5/2007
billcoe replied to gt5816v's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Shapp, thanks dude I saw those pics! Looks great. I had flashbacks. Sad to say I don't have any pics from either of those places. Elgin wall (think you mispelled it Elin), was where I saw that rope break on that kid under body weight. Been a long long time for me. The slab looks the same as when we did it in 77. Nice to see scaredsillys post too with the FA info on that one. I'd heard that but forgotten it. -
Strong= I can do 3 pullups. In a row. That's like, all at once without stopping. ________________________________________________ OK, not right now maybe, I hurt my left arm bad hanging with the Tappett Bros.
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Any of you beyotches still climb? What did ya do last weekend?
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Sandy Brown, now theres a name I haven't heard in a while. Sandy could pretty much do it all, with rock ascents up NW face of 1/2 Dome and alpine ascents on Denali. Some good ice climbing gets done occasionally on that part of the world too. I wish I'd paid better attention to things I did over there, as I was climbing all the time. I can't remember FA's I named 2 months ago, so I'm pretty much a dry hole. Sorry. _________________________________________________________________ BTW, since you knew Ken: in case you're wondering how he passed, it wasn't via climbing. @ early 1980's or so? (guessing on the date)Ken was a wildlife biologist working in Alaska. He died when the skiff he was running to purse seine some fish hit a wave sideways flipped. He sank like a rock and died immediately. Thats what I heard and am pretty sure about, conjecture is I heard/understand he had a survival suit on, don't know if it filled with water or what. Tht part never made sense to me, so who the hell really knows for sure. Just a sad thing to a young dude is all. People in my family still will still occasionally say "He Cronked it" when referring to a person grabbing and stuffing all visible available food into their mouth. Pretty much heard something similar happened to Danny Wright in Alaska too. Damn boats are dangerous. (more of a PDX- Smith climber) Edited to add: Re, Mountainproject, good on you for putting this stuff down finally! Please ignore the fool yipping like an out of control lapdog.
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[TR] beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf 9/15/2007
billcoe replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Link to cures for poison oak Read this and act immediately. -
"No contamination on Skinner’s harness By Angus M Thuermer Jr. September 15, 2007 An investigation of the climbing harness that failed and sent Lander, Wyo. climber Todd Skinner plunging to his death in Yosemite National Park last October found no signs of contamination that might have weakened the safety webbing. The report by Yosemite ranger M. Faherty has been awaited by climbers worldwide who were stunned by the death of Skinner, a well-known pioneer, and the unusual failure of his safety gear. The Jackson Hole News&Guide obtained a copy of the report Friday through the Freedom of Information Act. Climbers know that a critical part of the nylon webbing harness, a belay loop, broke and caused Skinner, 47, to fall 800 feet from the overhanging wall of Leaning Tower. At the time of his death, Skinner was descending the face after a day of climbing, sliding down a rope using a friction device linked to the belay loop. Climbers also know that Skinner’s harness was worn, that his climbing partner, James Hewitt, commented on its poor condition, and that Skinner agreed the harness needed replacing. Skinner was wearing an Arc’Teryx Targa harness. Tests of new belay loops similar to the one on Skinner’s harness, which were conducted by another climbing equipment manufacturer, showed them to be strong enough to hold body weight, even when cut most of the way through. Climbers wondered whether Skinner’s harness might have been contaminated and weakened by a foreign substance. The Park Service report found no evidence of that. Faherty wrote in his investigation that he sent the torn belay loop to Rhodia/Nexis Fibers in Switzerland for a chemical analysis. “On 06/15/07, I was notified by Rhodia representative Elman Ernst that ‘apart from the residues of the original spin-finish, no substances could be extracted from [the] analysed part of the loop’. ...” the report says Also, Faherty’s report discounts the possibility that animals may have gnawed on the harness when it was cached. Skinner left his harness overnight at the base of the climb, stored in a bag. “There was no sign of tampering by animals or people,” Faherty wrote. The report comes to no conclusion as to why the belay loop broke. Faherty makes several observations, however, that could lead climbers to a conclusion. Skinner’s partner reiterated in interviews with rangers that he observed the loop “had been about 20 percent worn through three days prior,” to the accident. Faherty wrote that he, too, “also observed that the harness was extremely frayed and worn where the belay loop should run through the ‘swami belt’ and the leg loops.” “The belay loop appeared worn near where it was torn,” Faherty wrote. “The actual torn section appeared frayed. I could see no fusing of Nylon fibers suggestive of a shock load...” Faherty also found a sling girth-hitched to the broken belay loop, which Hewitt believed had been in place for some time and prevented the belay loop from rotating and absorbing wear evenly. “Also broken was the keeper strap on the leg loops,” ranger Faherty wrote. Loss of the keeper strap would free the leg loops to saw against belay loop, often in the same spot, given Skinner’s harness set-up. Those observations support climber Will Gadd’s theory, published in a recent issue of Outside magazine, that the sawing leg loops contributed to the belay loop’s failure." Link here
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"Clinton good, Bush bad" Oh look, bears actually do shit in the woods! Oh look, the sky is blue. Oh look, backrubs feel good. Oh look, the Pope is Catholic. Oh look, the republicans are bankrupting our country for no apparent reason. Oh look..................
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Thanks Vert! Meant Dave Jensen. Baud came through this area in 1982 or 3? Think they skiied the North face of Hood that tour. I asked him "How to you stay in such good shape for climbing"? He looked at me funny, confused. All he did was climb. Then climb some more.