billcoe

Sorry I didn't have any advice for ya Mike: I was gonna say "welcome to my world" ie: for a while it was 2 full time jobs, full time father, family, wife, house, pets and other major commitments: the whole Hindenburg disaster. Climbing? What the F*ck was that but an old tainted bitter memory of momentary joy and happiness lost in the distant haze of time. F*ck I'm about to cry here just thinking of it. I gave the best years of my life to that woman and those kids....opps, did I just say that out loud? But that sounded too smarmy and I didn't want to be beat down with a wiffle bat. -anyway- Sounds like a nutritional issue to me. Good luck. Added: I took 2 years off to hang with my kids when they were little pups, did some rental house stuff and laid low till my wife kicked my ass the hell down the path to unhappiness again. Good times, my kids and I bonded so tight then that my son's now 17 and its still carried over to this day - unbelievably strong.

Adam13 = Cindy66 ? OMFG! NICE CALL Bstach. Pazzo, nice effort to elevate the conversation, you rule.

Holy F*en shit Wayne, this must be the story how Tim saved your life? You didn't land on any ledges or get hurt? BTW, in case anyone is interested or knows Jim, Jim Davis posted above Wayne about Wayne Haack. Welcome to the forum Jim, one of of the nicest, bestest dudes around, still climbing hard, and one of the person's responsible for getting me into climbing. Jim rules!

We all see right through this attempt to get your post count up Beyotch! Shit, Johnny looks dead up there. Should have come out and played last night dude, Will was wondering where you were. I told him about your cross fit addiction.

You stuck in town and not getting a pump on? PM me, lets climb something. Mike at Dicks Suburu in Hillsboro always was uber honest, reasonably priced and did perfect work. If you doesn't do a car (like the last company Ford Taurus) he will just tell you so and direct you to a good place. 587 SW BASELINE ST HILLSBORO, OR 97123-3840 Phone: 503-693-0820

You'll walk up these routes. (except maybe Toothpick, we'll all struggle on it, "they" say it rates 5.11C or D) Take the first hard right hand turn and park right before the parking/bible dome entrance. Walk north towards the cliff and we be there. Bring a rope and your own personal stuff (shoes harness etc). Set up Blueberry and we'll all rap your setup eh? @5:30 pm say ________________________________________________________ Get well DanL _________________________________________________________ Post release edit: Man that was nice. Bit crowded! Maybe 8 people. The highlight was that Will Strickland showed up in between being a dirtbag at other areas which, as Crackman said: "are comparable to Rocky Butte: like Yosemite, Vedavoo, Joshua Tree, Creek, Bishop:-) " Met 2 new nice people Moira and Preston. Everyone gave good belay and a good pump was had by all.

If you are thinking that way, just do it an do it now before it's open and a big deal. Keep it low and off the net. See the what do you think of bolts on Crack Warrior thread at Rocky Butte for instance. Some would prefer the oak. Once time, Nick Dodge brought his sprayer to hit the stuff out at Horsethief Butte. Someone disagreed and called a ranger who showed up in hot pursuit to stop the action. Pretty bizarre I thought.

Welcome Moira, no worries, once Clif gets the top of Wisdom Tooth cleaned up, all will be good. I don't like the oak either, as long as he keeps at it, all that should be cleaned out. If not, someone else can go spray it next year. When I sprayed earlier, although it had been a while since I'd been up at the butte, I noticed that someone had removed, to the ground, as if they had pulled it out by hand (except that the ground did not look disturbed): all the poison oak by the anchor tree to get to the bolts on top of Smears for Fears Thank you to whomever did that. I know that Oak use to be there cause I was always dancing around it. Not me, I totally disagree. I'm not in favor of bolting any old routes that do not have bolts unless something materially changes or everyone agrees in advance. But thats me. The climbs that do not have bolts on the west end have existed the longest out there, are the cleanest, have the least amount of garbage, are the very best lines, are easy to put pro in both to lead and toprope, and have easily been climbed over 40 years without anyone ever even suggesting that they needed bolts. . Furthermore, any trees which have died or blown over out there are not even close to the tops of these routes. People who just show up and stuff bolts in there knowing its a contentious thing are lame. I wish there was a better way to bring everyone to the table though as just wandering around like Jews in the wilderness for 40 years just talking to random strangers on this issue. It seems so inefficient. Then you have people like Clif, who seem like candidates for saying they don't like the idea but despite bringing it directly to him like 2 or 3 times, still avoided answering. At least he was clear (surprisingly to me) on the spray issue. I don't want the city involved as they may ban bolts, maybe climbing, altogether as that has happened elsewhere. And it is ultimately their choice to allow or not. I'd rather we handle it and reach agreement. I'm not opposed to bolts, I owned up to putting in some convenience bolts on Tiger Paws and Dream Weaver (which were chopped.) I admit it was a lame thing to do. I had some chopped at Beacon too which many trad old timers since, have come to me and asked I put back in. I won't do it though. I put the ones in on Glenns Route (with Glenn and John Frieh who owns an amazing drill:-) and along the top of Bill's Buttress on the new routes without sweating it, but those were new routes and except for someone removing 1 chain which was replaced and then slathered with epoxy, have been left alone. "Glenns Route" in particular, it's nice to have bolts there to facilitate ground up leading. Glenns Route is the easy face route to the right of Superman. Furthermore, I think someone should replace, or add new stainless bolts as backup, to the old rusty mank on Flakey old man and the top of Silver Bullet. Like immediately. I back that crap up, but beginners or people who have just left the climbing gym seem to think if there is a bolt, it will never fail and they just trust that if its in there now it will miraculously always be there for them 100 percent perfect without fail. Sadly not true. ______________________________________________________________ Daniel, to answer your question, I have 2 hand drills which suck, and a Hitachi 18V that I just bought to replace my old Milwaukiee 14.4 hammer drill which looks like this. You can get some of the current hammer drills, like this Hitachi for example, with several battery options, GET THE LITHIUM ION. Not only is it more environmentally friendly, but it will run and last longer and cost a lot less in the long run. I've used a Hilti TE-6, (see the Glenns route comment above, John has one) and that MF will drill holes like a hot knife through butter, but carrying it anywhere is a bitch and it costs a lot too. I'd rather just have a 2nd battery fully charged. Joseph has been using one to do all that work on Beacon, and considering how close to the car it is, plus how many bolts he needed to drill (damn near all of the ratty and rusty old bolts on Beacon were either replaced or had an additional new bolt placed near by Joseph himself carrying that heavy MF TE-6). Price shop the battery before you buy the drill. Even sitting in your basement they can die, and the $ is pretty steep to replace one. Anyhow, Ujahn drilled some holes 2 weeks ago with it, he's a contractor and drills holes for a living with corded tools, and despite the fact that he was hanging on a shitty stance barely hanging on, (difficult to drill) he thought it was pretty sweet and expressed happy thoughts on how easy it tore into the rock. It's not nearly as good as a Hilti, but the weight and price are the tradeoffs I was looking at. It's a lot of work to move something that heavy around on a wall. This Hitachi should work good for me as I don't drill many holes. We should be up there after work tonight, you should show up.

You good with Blueberry and all that horseshite in that area David? Tim? Anyone else? Geoff, Mel, Katie, DanielL, Joseph etc etc everyone else who's been slacking:-) BTW, reminder to all to lets all try and communicate the Request For anchor Bolts on Crackwarrior to folks we bump into. If there is resistance or anger, it would be nice to know in advance, probably 10% of the folks who climb out ther post here, so politely ask everyone their opinion when you're out there eh?

Pink points are better than "Brown points". Thats where you shit all over yourself thinking you will die, but make it up anyway.

Ahhh, well thats an easy one Pup, BOULDERING = SEX WITH SHEEP. Some people may consider this a deviancy or stangeness, but it's still great as long as you don't care what others think.

Holy shit you're old. Opps, did I say that out loud? Have not seen Wayne for maybe 30 years. Good story! Whats your real name? Welcome to CC.com BTW -Bill

Sub titties? WTF you takin about? Opps, just re-read that, nevermind. Heres the link:

3.5 GPA Jason what do you say about that?

I think I may be missing this money boat: and am thinking of starting a program called "Center for Families supporting the Missionary Position", wherein your checks will be tax deductible and all funds forwarded to me, and the Center will recruit young nubiles for...hmmm....what shall we call that?....... Well, it will be tax deductible. Workin out a few kinks, but on the road to success and righteousness now I think!

Smokin hot: I'd vote for her no doubt! Did anyone catch any of the words? Seriously, I'm glad no one asks me crap like that off the cuff. Probably sound like this: Ubuuubah,...... Ubuuubah, .........Ubuuubah, .......HUh? She had this to say:" BLONDE AMBITION Teen beauty queen explains TV meltdown Miss South Carolina claims 3.5 grade-point average, says she lost train of thought Posted: August 27, 2007 10:59 p.m. Eastern By Joe Kovacs © 2007 WorldNetDaily.com The 18-year-old beauty contestant who mesmerized the nation with her "brilliance" at the Miss Teen USA pageant over the weekend is speaking out about her gaffe, explaining she "completely misunderstood" the question posed to her. Miss Teen South Carolina Lauren Caitlin Upton fumbles through an answer during Friday's Miss Teen USA Pageant on NBC "I didn't do anything wrong," Lauren Caitlin Upton told the State newspaper of South Carolina. "I wasn't expecting [the question]. I lost my train of thought." She says she graduated with a 3.5 grade point average from Lexington High School in June, and was a varsity athlete and student leader. WND was the first news organization to report on Upton, who suffered an apparent and unfortunate "extreme blonde moment" during Friday night's NBC broadcast from Pasadena, Calif. When asked about the reason why some Americans could not locate the U.S. on a world map, Upton provided an answer that some call moronic and hilarious, while others say it's painful to watch and typical for young people in America today. As part of the competition, Upton was asked what host Mario Lopez called a "thought-provoking final question" selected at random. Upton selected judge Aimee Teegarden, an actress from NBC's "Friday Night Lights," who asked her this question: "Recent polls have shown a fifth of Americans can't locate the United States on a world map. Why do you think this is?" The South Carolina beauty gave this strange, grammarless response: I personally believe that U.S. Americans are unable to do so because, uh, some people out there in our nation don't have maps, and, uh, I believe that our education like such as in South Africa and, uh, the Iraq everywhere like, such as and I believe that they should, our education over here in the U.S. should help the U.S., er, should help South Africa and should help the Iraq and the Asian countries, so we will be able to build up our future for our children. Lopez told People Magazine he wanted to help Upton, but was instructed not to talk to the contestants while they were answering questions. "It was a very intense moment. It's live TV. You don't know what the question is until you get up there. And I believe that she misunderstood it. She went down the wrong road and couldn't figure out how to get back to the right one," he said. "I felt really badly for her." "Tonight Show" host Jay Leno played the clip during his program this evening, and joked, "People in South Carolina [are] filing out now." Upton will get another chance at answering questions in the morning as she's slated to appear on NBC's "Today Show." end

1) Climbing = good sex 2) "Sport" - clipping bolts that are close = quickly pleasuring yourself. Both are good: no argument from me, but you miss some subtle nuances in sport/pleasuring yourself. Conversely, sport misses some painful and often ugly complexities of climbing/sex with it's simplicities. Hope that helps.

Thanks, pretty bad, nothing ice, tape and ibuprofen hasn't helped:-) It has been helpful in flipping folks off too all taped up like that! Typing sucked for a while too! RB sounds good since it's been dry lately. I think I'm game, where do you want to climb? It's your call.

kinda like when you bring a comdom with you to a bar, but ya never got to use it. No, that is like carrying around a rope and your entire rack in a backpack with no place to go and no objective, but you don't climb anything. If you hit on a hottie at the bar and she walks, that is an attempt. So next time, start showing her your climbing gear ala Jim Robinson, he'd head into a bar with a carabiner and some gear hanging off his pack just to start up a conversation of how he climbed - now that was an attempt:-0 Like Eric says: "1) : to make an effort to do"

Here's my technique and it worked last time up the Dike. Take both the lightest running shoes you own and Ujahn. Like a young Labrador with a ball he's sprinting up the trail and looking back at ya: as if to say "come on come on come on". This is about 30 paces from your campsite before you've even hit a hill. You casually drop this line: "Man, (said while yawning) must have slept hard last night, this stuff feels particularly heavy." He'll offer to carry everything you have, and you gratefully accept. Remember this part cause it's important: your rope, shoes, gear, harness, etc etc but MOST importantly your WATER is now no longer on your back so you have to keep up. With this now significantly slower pace (as you loaded down the pace setter with all the weight), you do keep up, breathlessly promising yourself all the way to seriously start working out if you can only make it back without any major ligaments in the legs tweaking severely. Then just as you get up there at the base you find out that your pace was fast enough to have just caught up with some young studs who woke up early and left camp 2 hours before you.

Thats why I couldn't check any of the boxes. No vehicles.

Cleaned and followed Ujhan up a new crack route at the Twilight Zone Sunday which we named "The Short Bus". 10b/c, probably over 5.11 till it gets fully cleaned off, good pro. A retarded little climb that took a lot of work. Ujahn was climbing strong! His lead:-) Maybe a bit runout to the first piece but easy climbing there, @ 20 feet and he tied a runner to that tree root. Killed some wasps on the way in there, trundled 2 blocks that weighed maybe 400-600 lbs each and they flew nicely. Cleaned off 90% of another route and am wondering if it needs a bolt, or if I should pull it using the 2 pieces at my knee, or just lead with an ankle breaking ledge fall (assuming the pieces hold) and call it a day. I'm OK with taking the shot - for myself, but was wondering about others. Pretty much 80% decided on the bolt. Might lead it then bolt it for everyone else. Edited to add pics Tara sent over. _________________________________________________________________ Went to a reunion with some old high school friends who periodically get together to touch base, drink beer and eat, eat , eat: and drink some more. Amazing how old and out of shape folks are getting....amazing. Drank too much. Ate too much.

Long time ago we did some above the private land (just west of where you are looking probably). I think it was my friend John Petrosky who mentioned somebody being shot at there for traspassing, so I didn't go back, although I did go over there a couple of years back and it looks the same (looks like someone damn near lives there). There are some routes on both sides, I think Tim Olsen may list a few in his book "Portland Rock Climbs". Hey Mike, when you showing up to show us how hard your pulling these days ya fu*king loner? I may have a route you can try here in a bit. Link to PDX climbers hook up thread here

But you sounded like a seasoned expert on all the other threads....?

This has to be a better topic than a Politics and Climbing discussion. Except maybe not.