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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. I'd kick the kids ass for cutting the cables on my bike. You're joking? Rudys lil fella made a mistake. Your lil fella intentionally and willfully did something that any kid big enough to be able to do (cutting a cable isn't somthing a real lil guy could do, so you son is old enough to know better) would know better, he KNEW it was wrong and is looking for an asskicking. As a minimum, ya need to grab the lil pup by the neck and get all in his face. To do less only shows you do not care enough about the kid to do the right thing, and thats the wrong message to send. Thats my thoughts. I just did this on the dog the other day. She has 2 black eyes, with a white middle, and I connected the eyes so it looked like she had glasses. Here's a b4 pic:
  2. Well congrats to you too, but I'm not votin for ya!
  3. Hey, I was gonna say that:-) BTW, idiots like us then are often putting last years model up for sale, and they are perfectly fine. I know someone on this site who bought a used rope off ebay, uses it all the time, and I've led on it. I would avoid that however, you don't really know the history, there was just 60m ropes for sale for $83. each, and it seems like the used ones on ebay, like carl says, are selling for much more money. I think if you keep your eyes peeled on sites like this and take your time, you will be able to get some of last years prizes off of idiots like myself, who upgrade just because they have the money and want too.
  4. Good AM Stickboy! No, she got my real vote, but I don't really know what happened the first time, because it accepted my vote for her the 2nd. My wifes been walking, like seriously, and it's frustrating her because despite walking some pretty long walks or hard hikes (we did Dog Mt last Sun together, Sat she walked 11 miles for instance) she's not seeing a change. So my congrats are sincere. She must be real happy.
  5. awww f&ck me, did I vote for #1 dude the first time? Holy crap.
  6. Sorry, I've been drinkin. I ust not hav voted cuse I went acka dn did it for #4 and you wife is in 3rd now! Yeeeaah. You're welcome. Good luck.
  7. ohh shit, I just "re-read" your post and saw that she was #4. Sorry bout that, but yer a winner either way. Congrats.
  8. huh? Hey stickboy, you did not say which # was yer wife, so I voted for #1. She was, after all, the first pic goin for the money shot.
  9. Agree with JH, you can buy all the gloves you want it won't matter. Your girlfriends doesn't need gloves, she needs practice. Without it, next time you are climbing, even just toproping, plan on dying when she drops you. You lucked out this time. Thats my opinion.
  10. Hey he's just a lil fella - lighten up, your rope is fine. That chlorine is so dilute it's not gonna affect your rope. You washed it out anyway. Besides, if you'd been paying attention - a new rope could have been had for $83 yesterday. Lil guy didn't do it maliciously, don't be too hard on him, just remind him of the importance and he'll never do it again. Remember, he wants to make you happy, you just have to let him know what that means: before the act, not after. Be calm and clear, things will be OK. Thats my grandfatherly advice, feel free to ignore it though:-)
  11. a sysiphusian ascent of some useless choss-pile in a rainstorm with air temp of 33 degrees? No, that doesn't sound so bad: how about working in a windowless office 24/7.
  12. Whooooh dude......that sounded close. Like real, real, real close. Shit.
  13. Hope some of you got one of those $83 60M ropes. I bought 2 of the 70M 10.2 dry ropes for $97.99 ea and am selling one to Kyle S. He'll probably put it on e-bay and get $150 for it. ___________________________________________________________ Counted the ropes in my basement: 8. All lead condition. *Cough* gearwhore* Cough* Sold the 1st rope to Ujahn for a C note, Kyle got the 2nd one. Which may work out great as his bro. cored one yesterday.
  14. Huh? Don't know what all that is. Link Turddropper?
  15. I didn't see the pics, but I heard that the the other Tappet brothers' Volvo got 4' of air and may have set a height record on the trip in. Thurs: Blackberry jam area. Laps. updownupdownupdown. @5:30pm see ya there? Rap Birds to get down.
  16. Well, since you're the one who's always riding the short bus and must be most familiar with it, maybe you can organize it? What say eh?
  17. billcoe

    Placing bolts

    I 100% agree with Bug, and just basically said the same thing on the thread linked above. Jamin, you're skating on the edge here buddy. We've all of us been there, but I'd re-read Bugs post at least twice. Slowly. Really.
  18. I've never tried it, but I'd be pretty leery of using a solo device for ice. I'd be worried about ice getting in there and jamming up the works. That said, I applaud this guys motivation. Time to find a partner though. Likewise. I followed this from another thread. Hey, I use to use a single Jumar to TR solo and it never was a problem. I once saw Wayne1112 doing it on a short (50'-60' or so) what folks call a 5.11c about the same era. We all survived it (wasn't on ice though). Sometimes I still do it, despite having more solo devices than any single human would ever need. But Jamin, you might consider hanging with some real old dudes and check out their schtick so you can shorten your learning curve and reduce your potential risk of death and dismemberment.
  19. Yeah? Well it would help if you stopped letting beautiful women hang around you all the time.
  20. I might even have too consider it myself if the price is right! I could borrow my wifes lil J. Edgar Hoover dress and pair it with the Charles Colson model purse he favored. Hmmmm.
  21. If you're suggesting Tim, then I'm sure that the ladies could take up a collection to pay you for wearing a bra and panties.....if thats whats going down here. John seems to be pretty intimately familiar with the whole thing.........hmmmm, perhaps too much?
  22. billcoe

    Casting Call

    If you're going to do it John, what would be the use for me even considering trying it? Damn you got strong doing crossfit. You should do it. You're not getting younger.
  23. billcoe

    Placing bolts

    Yes I do, but as it has been well documented, I am an old and weak pussy. Doh, what I think I mean, is for a long mountainous approach especially where you left the pins and hammer behind, it's a lot of needless weight, for El Cap or something like that,: toss it in a 90lb haul pack you you won't notice it's there. Hell, I once put the whole damn yellow Meyers Hardcover in my backback, right in the sleeve next to my back, forgot it and carried up full hike and climb of the grade VI NW Face of 1/2 Dome. Would have been nice to know we had the topo:-) Last time I went up to do just Snake Dike, Ujahn carried the rope, the rack, my shoes, my harness and some of my water and I still struggled to keep up. Times change.
  24. billcoe

    Placing bolts

    BTW, I've been to the 7 devils, and it's way out there. So I have some sympathy. I don't carry prussics on my harness either. Why have that stuff catching on flakes as you're climbing? Older/softer slings work Ok for prussiks, even Spectra (I've heard folks say it doesn't work, but it does and works fine-try it) just toss an extra rap or 2 around the rope and you're good to go. Mattp's advice on the Petzl rockpecker is a good one. You can get one for about $50, and you need a hammer as well. You might check ebay for online sales. Pick up any holder. Rawl or the A5 Hurricane Holder would work as well. Both add substantially to the weight you will be carrying for a route like that, and leaving them home may be the best, cause it's a lot of extra weight considering you will hardly ever need them.
  25. billcoe

    Placing bolts

    I just had this happen to me about a month ago. I had a handrill and thought I had it OK all the way, but I was soooo fucked. GD, I was soooo pwned. Rapped down a chimney and thought there was a visible crack down there where the end of the rope was, but it was just these big loose flakes. So I yanked off flakes till it got solid, after 5-10 min of scratching around looking for anything to put a nut into, pulled out my Hurricane handdrill and the hammer, started pecking at the rock. 30 pecks later, I realize that this is going substantially slower than the sun is still moving towards the horizon, faster than the drill bit can work it's magic. Not only is the rock too hard, but check the bit: dull. MF you are such a dumb-ass (speaking to myself, I am the only person here and no one knows where I am but me. No one will come and get me. ) I have 3/8 dia bolts. Too big for an emergency. Slow to drill. Shit, didn't bring a headlamp either. MF you are such a double dumb-ass. How the F did you live to be 52 years old you dumb ass. Ahhh, whats that 30' over there straight left? a 4" diameter fir tree growing out of the rock. I make the 5.10 moves, hoping I don't peel off and smack the rock, as my rope is essentially deep in a chimney, and it doesn't move over with me, so I don't really have a nice tr above, but am looking at a pretty big swinging traverse fall. Make it safely to the little tree, assess it for a rap by yanking on it pretty hard, and decide it will work if I sling it low and I can find a backup piece. Tie it off and pull the rope, which comes most of the way down the chimney and then gets stuck. Stuck bad. MF you are such a dumb-ass, did you just get that rope stuck? The end I have isn't enough to get to the ground. MF you are such a dumb-ass. Now I'm tired, no water, dead beat, muscles cramping, can't get down, can't get up, alone. I still have to unclusterfuck this mess - no one will ever come here and find me until it's too late. Scratch around for a crack. Find none. Tie off the fir and try to reverse the moves. Surprise myself and do it, then climb up and unF*ed the rope, climb down carefully, not a chance in hell that a 4" fir will hold a leader fall of this distance. About 30' across and @25' down. But I'm tied to it anyway on the off chance I'm wrong or to make myself feel good. Actually, the climb over and back really felt good, I like pulling rock I'm thinking to myself, and relieved of the fear I'd had on the way over of a flake pulling off, I'm flowing. I live for this moment. I might be able to pull the moves to the top, on a route which has never been done before or even seen by a human being, but a short consideration and a brief snaileye towards the top later I'm thinking I'd better try for the ground. Once back, runner the tree, decide that although my head is pounding from dehydration, leaving 2 'biners, opposed and reversed is a good idea. At least if the tree pulls, it will look safe when they find me. Set up the rap, then slowly and gently slide over the edge: trying not to take big breaths as the extra weight of the air may do me in. Trying to use my feet to keep less weight on the rope - thinking I should have gone on a diet and lost some of this extra weight. Course I've got the bolt holder, bit, bolts, hammer, blow tube and wrench lowered safely to the ground on the end of the rope and doing nothing productive at this point. Of course. Get down to the ground, pull the ropes and for some damn reason they choose this time NOT to cluster*f and pull right down and the twilight zone effect comes on just as the sun hits the horizon. I beat cleats and clear the woods and make the car just as blackness starts to settle. Laughing my ass off and glad to be alive. So to answer your question Jamin. A bolt kit, with a new bit, holder, and a couple of 1/4" bolts and hangers may get you out of trouble, but may not, as my true example demonstrates.
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