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Everything posted by billcoe
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Mountain Gear, new trango brassies on sale
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surgery on two limbs in a short period of time
billcoe replied to marylou's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Well good luck with it. I worked in the VA hospital after the Vietnam war. More than 1 dude gave up on it and said "Saw the fucker off". That cronic pain thing is not fun at all. At all. Don't envy you. How did you get hurt? -
I did a 3 pitch route at that grade that went up a slab in that area out of Angel Basin near Anthony in 1977 (nuts and hexes only) with Richard Candelaria and the late Ken Cronk. Don't know the peaks name. We consensused it at 5.6 as well. Sounds very similar, out on the face for most of it. I can see that route in the distance when I'm skiing Anthony just as I'm about to get off the chairlift looking to the left about 10-11 o'clock or so. Sweet Sweet Granite! My brother has suggested to me that it had been done earlier, in the 60's. The late Lute Jerstad (Lute Jerstad Adventures) had a climbing school as well, and all the lil 1/4'ers on the short wall near the basin the other direction were his for the school. You'll probably trip over those soon enough, thats where they came from. (Lute was on the first American Everest expedition, and the Sherpas said he had a heart attack while hiking in that area of Nepal 2 days after visiting his old climbing teamates Barry Bishops ashes and the remains of Jake Brietenbush at Tengboche Monestary about 10 years ago.) I think Don (?) Jensen is still alive and living over there someplace, but sorry I can't direct you his direction. I think he did most of the cliffs in the area at one time or another including some real amazing shit. Like lots of people over that way, they just quietly go about doing world class feats and not only don't chestbeat, but often rarely mention it.
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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
billcoe replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
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Old news. It explains why we're in Iraq and also why Bush Jr is committing 1.2 billion $ to Hydrogenated trans fat fuels. It's time to step away the suburban and Tahoes boyz. Unless you want to have your kids killed for them. I don't.
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surgery on two limbs in a short period of time
billcoe replied to marylou's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Saw all that crap right off. Right off. -
Hang in there Muff! Sounds like the diagnosis should be "Porter Foot". Did Layton just bump this cause of the title?
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[TR] Vinales Cuba - Various 9/5/2007
billcoe replied to gt5816v's topic in The rest of the US and International.
SHOW THE HOLE SHOW THE HOLE SHOW THE HOLE SHOW THE HOLE ! -
[TR] Vinales Cuba - Various 9/5/2007
billcoe replied to gt5816v's topic in The rest of the US and International.
I doubt that his girlfriend, who wanted to do that trip, wants to travel to a heated, non-culturally interesting, vacant, dry, shithole. I like the place, but that's me. Where the pics or tr of that s/hole anyway Shapp? -
No, the final word was already presented, quoted by me. It was someone who posted on this thread other than me and put here: Link to the final word on bolting thread So there is really NO NEED to continually rehash this old point. Been THERE, DONE that. and Lucky: never met ya, but I'd tie in with you. As far as the Russians, I defer to folks who've been there. Unfortunately not all K2 climbers will: the great climbers John Smolich and Alan Pennigton will not be speaking on the subject. Nor will I do so in their place. Bless you all, may you all live long and prosper.
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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
billcoe replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
It's now 20 -
Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
billcoe replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
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Ujahn was telling the david, who handed us the guide I sent you, that the roptes were like 5.8 when he pulls out that paper which said they were 5.10 Snaileye couldn't find the directions, this should get you close: Close to downtown, @ 1-1/2 blks north of the Lake. Take Country club turn S on Iron Mt, head to North shore blvd or Bertwick to Cabana. Park at that space right at the RR tracks (see on the mapquest map). Look west @ 1/2 a city block right down the tracks, theres a shitty little bolted rat hole right there. It's a roadcut for the RR. link mapquest Kev, so you won't be trad climbing ans skipping bolts ? You folks moving to Skamania?
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Thats funny Dan. Ck yer pms snaileye
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Stick around. Didn't see you as venting as much as sharing. You'll soon see that I'm always right anyway. See, what Kev says above is 100% true. I totally and fully agree, but I already defined this issue differently, more fully, and in my mind it's not fully framed in his post, but it was in mine. He asked. I thought I gave him the definitive answer. If you note, he starts out appearing to say its overbolted because of the cracks, then he later comes and says there are not enough bolts Then he says he won't fix the huge potential issue he discovered. When one of the upper rocks fell off and one of the 2 anchor bolts was wiggling with finger tension, I was ready to pop a new on in immediately. Why not? (someone beat me to it) Now most places, you just don't just show up and pop a bolt in. It isn't done for many reasons, but that is not the case here. Kev's a pretty strong climber, that he felt he got sandbagged at this little sh*thole says something. For me, I'd look up and see this about to occur and avoid the route. Maybe do the next one 15" over and toprope this one. I'm a pussy though. I don't let beginners belay me for that very reason. I'm afraid. Maybe it is or can be argued that it's an opportunity for a beginner to learn about such things. I don't know. All I know is that I know that this isn't the place for an accident. I agree with the dudes who put the bolts in. As far as your assertion that world class climbers don't climb at this shitho*e: probably not true. They get burns in all kinds of areas and in the damnedest of places. But alas........3 weeks later we are still discussing this smelly old fish on this small little plate.
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I was thinking that too. BTW: Eerie prediction ? Hey Porter, new thought, if the surgery goes bad and ya don't make it, can I have your cams?
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Holy shit. Didn't you do some other harder testpiece route on the big stone as well?
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Porter, didn't you fall on that very route at UW rock and break your leg right after posting this? Thats eerie.
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The quote code looks like this start = quote=nosepicker in between is [ ] with the Q on quote the first letter, no space, and the R on nosepicker the last letter before the second bracket. finish = Start =
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Click the "quote" button under the post when you respond. BTW, there is no bigger fish to fry currently as this is the only fish currently on the plate. Inconsistent describes all of us. Take care
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As worn by Madonna Interesting sales verbage "As worn by Madonna". Link NSFW "You''ll never guess which A-list super star was spotted out and about proudly clutching her Ann Summers Purple Penetrator? None other than the Queen Bee of pop Madonna was snapped holding a see-through bag that revealed her naughty purchase as she left a building with husband Guy Ritchie taking up the rear (doesn't look like that'll be for long!) We wonder what it is about the Penetrator that Madge, or is it Guy, finds so appealing? Is it the six inch dildo (she's a powerful woman of course), the choice of multispeed (we know she likes a change) of the adjustable waist and back strap (she is a slender lady)? Looks like the couple, who got wed in December 2000, are having a good go at spicing up their marriage and in the pic, released by Holy Moly, Madge is looking a little sheepish to say the least. We wonder if Guy is so keen for her to take the driving seat? Well...he's probably used to it!."
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This you too? Layton school of religon