billcoe

Bob McGowen did one on the right side that tops out, you can see old tat if you look closely. Called it Upside down Sylvia? JH, there is a more obvious (we thought easier but more loose too) line to the left which we passed on. The center looked more solid and interesting. Perhaps you were on that?

I suspected he was thinking we were a bunch of unappreciative whining asswipe pussies always constantly and unnecessarily bitching and moaning about all the negatives of our amazing country. Maybe he'd perused this site, cause I see it a lot here myself.

Gary Rall, Bob McMahon and I climbed up that massive semi-detached projection straight back from that tree under the massive East Face. They were kind enough to let me lead it ground up classic load-dropping style tossing the moss and choss as I went. Went straight up the middle in the area now closed, did this sometime before 1984 when I graduated from school and Gary and both got real jobs. I left at least 1 Leeper pin fixed for the next party @ 20-25' up that I remember. We agreed it was 5.10 something, and called it the "Alan Lester Memorial Hiking Trail" cause we thought it would be funny. Alan is still alive btw and climbing world class strong as always, that's part of the joke. He was the other dude on Southern Belle when Hank Caylor took that skreeting leg snapping tumble that is so well known. Steve was around, I haven't seen him for a while, improperly credits Bob and I with saving his life @ 1997 or so, but thats a story he should tell. It is enough that he survived.

At the end of the day, picking the most honest person or who has the most solid internal values may be the best course of action. That may be just a guess. Certainly they are fairly close in many issues. Gun control/second amendment is an issue that Obama has moved over to the middle in a big way, and it's one of my core issues. Can this be trusted or will he move back once elected? Who can say.

Obama has raised substantially more money than his opponent. Do you believe he is picking that off of trees or that it magically appears? Do you believe corporations are not giving big scratch to him? Do you believe this? Don't think it is not so. A man who will change his values to get elected will change to get the money to get re-elected or to get elected the first time. Now thats change you can believe in.

My bad, check yer Emails for excessive Mea Culpas.

The thing thats pissing me off about both of these contenders is that they are not moving much past the sound bite stage and concentrating on what our country needs, but on what they think they need to say to be elected. McCain's "Give the working man a gas tax vacation" is utter counterproductive bullshit slight of hand, Obama looked like he'd resist the bullshit, now he's advising to pull from the Oil Reserves. That shit isn't there to be a pawn in a political game so some jackass can get elected, its called the STRATEGIC reserves, and like money in the bank, we need to save that shit for when it's really needed. These men need to formulate a large stratigic plan for the good of our country and I'll vote for the first one who even starts to go there. Suggested topics that should be on the top of everyones issue list to include: A) The economy including our import/export balance of trade and the budget deficit. b) A national energy policy that looks out a firm 20 years and beyond. C) The economy. If we have a strong economy, lots of other issues can be dealt with like schools, serious environmental issues, prison funding, etc etc. I just don't see any of these guys thinking of anything except themselves first, and the country last. It saddens the F* out of me. To those of you rooting for Obama, think back to when Bush was running. He had successfully run Texas as Governor for some time and had a reputation of hiring and listening to qualified advisers: and look where it got us. Obama doesn't have 1/10th the track record Bush had then. Think about that for a moment and get scared. Really scared. (I'm assuming that the McCain supporters already are scared when they think of his anger issues)

ps, I did the annual hair cut and my hair no longer looks like that. CYA tomorrow. g'night.

That time of the month? CU Nxt time Next time is now Geoff~! So bring a Tampon is you must. I went up to go do this Saturday and it was F*ing wet wet wet and I'm a *Cough*Pussy Pussy Pussy*Cough*, and it was wet wet wet, so how about you lead it and make me a happy old man? Those MF cams are heavy heavy heavy and I hauled them up to the woods! Anyhow, how about Tuesday, I'm suppose to have bolts for new route bolters like Mark and Joseph! You dudes there? We can climb wisdom tooth and pull spray the Poison Oak that Clif (Larry) didn't pull! 2 weeks ago...snow! Let us go, my brothers, and challenge the anointed Rocky Butte Mosquitoes to a death duel...let us do this together. Gear: leather gloves and weed killer like Round up pro or GlyStar Pro.

And a roll of toilet paper or even a Bidet?

Sounds like you, Shane and JH should team up and work on it. It would be a shame to toss such a great name away:-) The potential for this thing being world class interesting and yet still hard is there. I've been a bit of a pussy ever since I heard Steve Strauchs story up there. He named the East Side amphitheater the "Arena of Terror" which comprises this route to the right and includes all the overhangs in that East side area. I know that McGowen told Tim that "The Arena of Terror" was the Railroad blast area on the south side by Pipeline, but it wasn't so, just because it was in the guidebook doesn't make it true. Anyway, Strauch climbs directly up to the overhanging blocks on the left side of the "Arena of Terror", he's totally stressing, barely able to hang on as he bangs in a small knifeblade and continues, unable to get a shake or a rest at the pro. Every move above is still tough, yet he climbs on, fighting all the way, unable to stop or get pro. He suffers for every move, until finally he's maybe 30' above this shit piece of pro knifeblade, 60' off the deck max - and he knows that it won't hold a fall and if he falls on it- it will fail and he will auger into the dirt from the equivalent of a 9 story building. But yet he can't stop or get a rest, so looking up, he realizes he can crank around this 2' x 2' block just above him and possibly stand on it for the blessed rest. He gos for it knowing it's his only option, unable to take the easy way out of life and just let go and commit to the deathfall. He feels around the block and gets a solid grip on the crack which forms the back of the block. Pulling and sweating hard, he commits to the move and WHOOSH, faster than you can say "Wheres my testicals" (in an extremely high sotto voce voice) the entire thing comes off with him clutching it tight like the Rosary at Church. Before he has a moment to say a Hail Mary or even start to involuntarily excrete into his pants, his rope comes tight on the frikkan knifeblade and the damn thing looks like might hold anwyay. It does! Steve's hanging totally in space as it overhangs so much....AND THE PIN STILL HOLDING FOR NO APPARENT REASON. Steve gets lowered to the ground stat on the blessed Knifeblade, kissed the earth upon touchdown and swore to never climb there again. An oath he kept, long after he'd changed his underwear. So I carry a bit of a mental burden over there still.

S' OK, you can make it up to us all by changing that post to a picture of a climb.

I'll say hi for sure DPS. I think a brush with mortality can make even the most hardened of us lighten up. Good luck.

Not yet Dave, and unfortunately the basement is getting full.

ahh, got it.

yellow = mark d variation? Mark, are you saying that you have climbed up this via the yellow line? Directly above Rythem Method? I had reconnoitered it years ago off the Boardwalk anchors, put in a solitary bolt as I was going to turn the corner and then thought that there was no way in hell to make those moves without riding the overlapping flakes down to the ground. JH approached it from a slightly different angle, but still had to content with the flakes that had not been touched since I'd been up there 20+ years previous. It appeared to me that this couldn't have been climbed without the flakes being pulled off first, thats what Jh found as well, but was able to yank them off from the right side with a bunch of effort, skill and risk. I think he did that just last year. Own up now, cause Jh has been tossing off moss and choss like no one has ever been here before.....unless you jumped on it last year as he was cleaning it off, still a serious undertaking......it's a work in progress still.

Let freedom ring! BBC link Fear and greed, ya got anything to add about this is all Amerikas fault and how hateful and complicit America is for either: A) Not helping obtain self-determination for these folks. B) Not complaining to the Chinese. c) Being imperialists. later all bill

Where (what) is that K?

Excessive plabage. Taken from under the roof @20' above the Rythem Method/Raindance anchors.

I did! More pics? New area. Lad and I was shooting guns. I have 4 ropes fixed and 2-5 gallon buckets full of shit hanging in the background just off the top on the skyline there. Can you see them? I can't see them, but know they're there.

People die on bolted anchors too. Sounds like a good opportunity for them to grow and learn, good you were there to pull their asses off Mark. I'm gonna have to remember to bring a whistle, thats trick:-)

Hot damn thats awesome. I read the Obama one and it cracked me up. Well done. However, where's the biggest asshole media jackass Michael Savage? This thing has some glaring holes (not talkin about Hillary either)

We did a lap up Rythem Method/Raindance/Menopause (P1). I pointed out your route extension. "Whoohhh....Stout!" kids says, eye's getting wide looking up. "Yup", I replied, piss involuntarily dribbling down my pant's leg and testicals shrinking severely while looking at the roofs up there.

Ujahn talked me into doing a Young Warriors lap Sunday with Adam Winslow. If anyone gets a chance to get out with Adam: recommended. Good guy, pretty much has his shit together and is just starting to get on cracks and multipitch, so maybe some knowledge gaps which dude is sharp enough to figure out quick. Figure he'll be a quick study and outclimbing me in a short period of time. (this is an old familiar story:-) On route. Tope of P4 belay with Norsemans head behind. I suggested he call Jim and do a SE corner lap. Anyone wants a competitant partner for a Corner lap, he's it, and needs to jump on that route.