billcoe

Don't know for Syble but there's plenty of strange stuff out that way. I run into people who I've never seen EVER in my life out there. Last year I ran into 2 different people, both of whom said they had been climbing out there for years and years: one of whom said he'd been going there for 26 years, and the other said something like 20 years, whom I'd never ever seen before. BTW, I drilled the holes on top a bit ago when I was out there with Crackman of the super crack there, Crack Warrior, in the middle wall but haven't put in chains yet. Posted it here and must have talked to 20-40 people about it last summer, most of whom had never heard of the route, didn't know where it was, and could totally care less if I wanted to do bolts or probably even widen the jams with a chizzel, but I did meet 3 dudes climbing together that just lit me up. They were outrageously and totally pissed that people were putting in convience anchors where none had ever existed before, like Bluebird and White Rabbit, but it turned out they didn't know where Crack Warrior was. The approach is real hidden, and one of the best routes there stays dirty cause no one does it. I explained about the big fir that had snapped and rotted and how there is no good pro as the only thing that looks like a crack was break in a boulder and they got quiet on that issue. I crept away quietly. Cleaned up the approach for CW and dug it out too so it's safer as well. Left a bolt next to the shit pin that some kind soul had left there. Now I need to pound the chains. That lack of knowing people just happened again. I just PMed Adam as he's 30 and goes out there regularly, and he said he was wondering if it was a dude I'd never heard of called Matthew something who lives right there and climbs there all the time...and who is 30 years old, like the artical says. So we'll see. Hopefully the dude is OK. BTW, how come everyone is talkin about bolts (here) and birds (Beacon) and there's hardly a comment about Adams naked ascent of his still as yet unnamed NEW route? NAKED PICS NOT SAFE FOR WORK later

I only do that when it's wet or I have beginners with me Jeff, so it has to be someone else I'm sure. How about just a shorty fixed rope hitched on the trees there? That's not adding anything permanent and it can be a beater that will easily take bodyweight, so when bubba pulls it cause he needs a tow rope or someone objects to the "new" pro, the loss won't hurt financially. People can put on their harness's on top and clip it with a daisy. The downside is that the toothless crankers and riff raff will be more able to get down it to steal the backpacks that people leave on top there. (I think I've heard that story at least 3 distinctly different times). It's the just getting TO the bolts on the edge of these climbs thats dangerous. Once folks get on them, they seem to do OK. The note in the book is a good idea as well.

Well, they didn't close the Fremont bridge, a major Interstate Freeway in PDX, either. There have been birds nesting right on the bridge as well. They aren't going to piss off and inconvenience the bulk of the taxpayers DO YOU KNOW WHY? Because if they did, THE ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT WOULD BE RE-WRITTEN and their asses would be DE-FUNDED and they would have to go get real jobs. That's what you are meaning to say right Kev?. But it's OK to shit on you and me with incomplete or inaccurate science because you and me are little people without significant voices in the halls of power. Right? Did I paraphrase your thoughts accurately? How did I do there? It's been said that it's a game of often marginal or zero benefit to society whereby they force you to engage them, so that they can keep and expand their jobs. Write to your congressmen and senators. No one here can do a damn thing about it.

hey JB, you see this one yet:

I just said that

But it's sooooo difficult to click and read the links...like those on STPS earlier post.

Anyone recognise the area? Or know the person or where they were? Adam was climbing over there last month and said that there are several homeless living in the cold down there in tents and tunnels, including inside of that blasting tunnel at the base under Video Bluff. Maybe they could organize them into a version of YOSAR? They could call it Butt-sar (Butte search and rescue)

Shoes are aid This route looks a lot better in person, this pic makes the rock look blocky and broken.

Bold and cold

Priceless (Your ass on the internet)

good one! How about: Jewels of Da Nile?

The first line comes off all cocky, then reality sinks in! Holy crap! clinging to moss, shit! What route or area were you at Alex? Silver Bullet? What happened?

I'll try to get some pics of the window in my house I framed with figured guitar wood in the next day or so. Wish I had more skill, I'm not even 5.7 on woodworking. Can't say why as I keep that old woodworkers mantra inside my head at all times:...measure once, cut twice...

Regardless, I welcome the change in direction....slowly walking down the steps: step by slow inexorable step, to a bleak dark dungeon sucked. Sure, maybe all we've done is turn around on the stairwell, but the view is radically different because we are looking and heading into the light and to freedom, and is not still looking like the previous view of a descent into a hellasious Dante-esque nightmare anyway....

Well, that would be one way to keep all them loose boulders in place! Long as you put masking tape on all the sweet cracks first so you can still get fingerlocks....jus' sayin'...

I'll admit it's bullshit that all these folks seem to overlook paying their taxes: UTTER Crap, as all of us, no matter which side of the aisle, will agree I'm sure. HOWEVER, I find the apologizing thing refreshing from what the last 8 years of "What, me worry" Alfred e Newman like NEVER accepting blame and guilt or admit a mistake theme that Former Pres Bush had going. Of course, I'm sure your results will vary. But that's me. I like it. Not a lot of apologizing, but at least Pres. Obama knows where the buck stops. Damn refreshing.

Link to Simon Carters site Those may be the bolts in the Blue Mts that failed and resulted in a fatality. Here's that story.

Link to current accident The problem, as I see it, is that generally beginners, but occasionally experienced folks as well, go to set up a top rope on the top of Silver Bullet. The go and start the downclimb, then slip and bite the dirt. A lot of the accidents are right there, doing that. Is it time for a fixed line, rap bolts, mandatory training? What? Here's an earlier thread of another accident - possibly the same area. Link to former accident Silver Bullet and Video are the problem areas as I see it. It seems most folks get hurt while going unroped for the chains on top of the cliff to set up a toprope. I started to dig out the top of Flaky Old Man last year so it's not so steep on the edge and saw someone else had picked up the burden and even done some more. (it could use even more) Good on whomever that was. I've seen so many noobs (and people who should know better) not tie any backup and walk right to the steep, slippery edge to reach over the void and grab the chains..... I was just standing next to Joseph one day on top of Blackberry Jam, I think looking a that washing machine someone had tossed over the edge, and just banana peeled. Had the landing not been flat, like at Video, it could have been Mr Toads Wild Ride! Where's those wild Broughton bolters folks are complaining about on another thread:-) Seriously, any thoughts?

Link to Oregon Live story Anyone know anything? Sounds like another fall on the descent to the top of Silver Bullet. It says: "Climber hospitalized after falling 35 feet on Rocky Butte by Lynne Terry, The Oregonian Tuesday February 03, 2009, 7:06 PM A rock climber in his 30s was hospitalized today after falling about 35 feet in Rocky Butte Park in Northeast Portland. Portland Fire & Rescue arrived at the scene at about 4 p.m., minutes after a 9-1-1 call. But then it took the specialty crew 30 minutes to find the victim in the rocky, steep terrain threaded with unmarked trails, said spokesman Lt. Allen Oswalt. The climber, who was conscious and did not have life-threatening injuries, was strapped securely to a backboard, Oswalt said. The crew of firefighters, all professional rock climbers and paramedics, put the backboard in a steel basket and attached that to a pulley system, getting him safely down the steep slope to the trail. The man told firefighters that he had started at the top of a 50 foot cliff on the northeast face of the butte. He said he had descended about 15 feet when something went wrong and he fell about 35 feet. He was taken to Legacy Emanual Hospital & Health Center. Oswalt said Portland Fire & Rescue rescues eight to 10 climbers a year on Rocky Butte. "It happens to the best climbers occasionally," he said. But it could have been worse "if he would have had serious injuries with it taking us a half an hour to find him." Climbers should always have a partner, use good equipment and know what to do and where they are in the event of an emergency. -- Lynne Terry; lynneterry@news.oregonian.com" I see the Jerk posted this just before I did, the story he linked from KATU has pictures too. Link

Good lord that's stunningly beautiful. You should show Sheri this, she's a woodworker and makes some great art pieces, she'd most likely pass out when she see those pictures.