billcoe

There's no reason for Kevin to fight anyone. (or to ban Jlaq either Ivan as he's just offering) What would that prove anyway. I was reflecting the other day when I was getting riled by another poster that in many ways, Kevin is a better person than I - as he never gets angry and want to fight or even upset when he's flamed. He just smiles and goes on. He's a lover not a fighter, and if you were ever fortunate to get out with him, you'd probably be amazed how encyclopedic his memory of each hold and piece is. I am anyway. Peace to all of you Bill ps this argument and flamefest is about to move on as I just posted the definitive best rubber, per scientific testing on another thread. I suspect that will turn into fisticuffs within 10 pages of flames.

Thought this was damn interesting, sorry if it's been posted before. Scale of 1-10 with 10 being best. Evolv TRAX XT-5 9.7 La Sportiva FriXion RS 8.4 Vibram XSV 7.9 Mad Rock FX5 7.9 Vibram XS 7.8 Stealth Onyx 7.3 Stealth HF 6.1 Stealth C4 5.9 Mad Rock Formula #5 4.3 http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/ Testing Setup The test setup was designed and built by Steven Won, a physicist at CERN and an avid climber. Each sample was placed on the marked portion of the granite. The screw (seen below the granite slab) was rotated, slowly raising the angle of the granite slab until the rubber sample failed. The height of a fixed point on the slab was measured (from the base) to determine the angle of the slab. Average Results in Degrees Granite Plastic Evolv TRAX XT-5 34.27 48.86 La Sportiva FriXion RS 33.94 45.61 Mad Rock Formula #5 28.40 43.80 Mad Rock FX5 32.77 46.21 Stealth C4 30.00 45.18 Stealth HF 28.16 46.68 Stealth Onyx 30.12 47.78 Vibram XS 30.87 48.79 Vibram XSV 29.59 49.48 Shoes from which the rubber samples were attained Evolv Trax XT-5 Evolv Defy La Sportiva FriXion RS La Sportiva Mojo Mad Rock Formula #5 Mad Rock (Old) Phoenix Mad Rock FX5 Mad Rock (New) Phoenix Stealth Onyx Five Ten Galileo Stealth HF Five Ten V10 Stealth C4 Five Ten Mojave Vibram XSV Mammut Goblin Vibram XS La Sportiva Nago Woman XS Grip Sage Details - All test samples were placed on the same location on the granite slab and climbing hold. Twenty slides (using an old climbing rubber) were run on each surface to avoid having the first holds have different results. - All samples were the same length and width (2 x 2 inches). - The weight (15 oz of steel) was used because it was low profile and would not flip during 45+ degree tests. Double sided duct tape was used to attach the top of the rubber samples to the weight. - The bottom (unpolished) portion of a granite counter top was used for the granite tests. - EGrip's Peabody Crimp Plate was used for the climbing hold tests because it had a large enough flat area. - All tests were completed in our lab which had a constant temperature of 68 degrees. - The chart on the back of the device is not used for measuring the angle (we measured the height of a fixed point on the ramp to the base). - A modified bell curve was used to convert degrees into the 0-10 format to make the data more readable. Physics behind the test The quantity we are trying to measure is called the "coefficient of friction," and it is a simple way to quantify the stickiness between two surfaces (in this case, the rubber and the granite or climbing hold). It is defined as the ratio between the normal force (defined as the force compressing two parallel surfaces together) and the frictional force, and is unique to each pair of surfaces. In this experiment, the normal force is being adjusted by changing the angle of the surface with respect to the ground. The advantage of this approach is that it eliminates possible systematic errors involving the weight or surface area of the rubber sample. Mathematically, the coefficient of friction works out to the tangent of the angle between the surface and the horizontal. mu (Granite) mu (Plastic) Evolv TRAX XT-5 0.68 1.14 La Sportiva FriXion RS 0.67 1.02 Mad Rock Formula #5 0.54 0.96 Mad Rock FX5 0.64 1.04 Stealth C4 0.58 1.01 Stealth HF 0.54 1.06 Stealth Onyx 0.58 1.10 Vibram XS 0.60 1.14 Vibram XSV 0.57 1.17 Steven Won is the Huang Fellow at Northwestern University's Department of Physics and Astronomy, and a member of the USCMS collaboration at CERN. He is also a climber. " _____________________________________________________________ Discuss

Whats the best steps an individual can take right now to buttress themselves against these future uncertainties Jayb?

OMG LOL!!!!

I know, I needed to post my reply up there with a wink. Actually, it got me to thinking of how kick assed Jason is as a photog. That pic of you on the shield wall out there that was used for the poster was nothing short of breathtaking. I think the river is even blue! I saw that and was all like "Where the hell is that"

Well the great news is that places like Washington, that are doing so well, appear to be looking at a net outflow of money, and will help subsidize places like Rhode island. Is this the housing projects for Washington list? This is the housing help that 870 billion dollars will get Washington State? Whew, money doesn't stretch as far as it use to. ________________________________________________________________ ARTSPACE Housing Everett WA 100 $5,000,000 Housing -56 Habitat for Humanity Housing Everett WA 12 $300,000 Housing -13 CHIP Program Everett WA 10 $250,000 Housing -13 Ranier Vista HOPE VI-Construction of 51 LIPH units Seattle WA 0 $1,500,000 Housing -6 High Point HOPE VI-Construction of parks Seattle WA 0 $1,000,000 Housing -12 Bell Tower Rehabilitation-Major system rehabilitation including water lines, ventilation system, windows, exterior coating, UFAS upgrades Seattle WA 0 $4,000,000 Housing -8 __________________________________________________________________ The table didn't import well. You must be very proud of your contribution. Maybe you all want to browse it to see where your money is going? http://www.planetizen.com/node/37335 http://www.stimuluswatch.org/project/by_program/Housing&per_page=600 Of course you'll get money for streets too, since you slackers aren't fixing your potholes evidently.

Unfinished? Suppose it's a crack like most climbs are? ps, Route setters work in gyms. The routes on cliffs are already there.

Ouch...I'll remember to never tease anyone with pink anywhere in or around the name. And I'll start a remedial reading program as well. And pay attention. Promise:-)

Thank the lord for trees eh? Wow!

My opinion: larger cams I'd stay with the tech friends. Some say they work better in those sizes than camalots. I don't know, but the range you gain from using a Camelot seems negligible at the larger sizes. Offset or regular Aliens. The Green, Yellow and Red seem to be nice sizes. You could also go with the Metolius Mastercams in those sizes as well.

States rights revival. My brother just got back from Memphis. He says the liqueur stores are segregated! Blacks buy out of one and whites out of another and apparently only ignorant tourists like himself accidentally cross over. This led to a rousing debate over race and racism over the family diner. I heard a fact that surprised me. Despite Brown VS Board of education, fully 70% of the schools were still segregated in the South as of 1969 (when I was in High School).

You missed digging in the dirt for this? Wise man.

I don't disagree with what you say Matt: but by totally ignoring what Prole has said you defacto agree with it. The title of the thread is "Criminal Irresponsibility" and he says that because a Governer, who has a fiscal duty to his state, didn't want to not look at the costs of a federal program, that he should be taken out and Tarred and Feathered by a mob??!. Specifically, the article says the governor: "expressed concern that expanding unemployment insurance coverage would lead to increased unemployment insurance taxes later on. “The federal money in this bill will run out in less than three years for this benefit and our businesses would then be stuck paying the bill,” Jindal said. “We must be careful and thoughtful as we examine all the strings attached to the funding in this package. We cannot grow government in an unsustainable way.” " I mean WTF? You think that is "Criminal Irresponsibility" and an elected official should be tarred and feathered? It's bullshit. If you want to now say "well they should have tarred and feathered some of the corporate owned political whores in the last admin", I wouldn't even try to defend some of those shit actions, but why ignore a post like Proles? As far as if I believe or "think much of the Republican grandstanding over this aspect of stimulus package is a cloak for we-hate-socialism Republicanism? " Probably is. That's politics as usual. Not everyone agrees with everything and when they argue it out, they usually get to a better result. In Oregon, our last Governor, a Dem-not that it makes a difference, Kitzhaber, was formerly an emergency room physician. He refused and protested going along with the federal government mandates on spending the way they dictated for health care. The feds almost cut us off of Federal Funds because we were going a different path. There was the usual lobbying and back and forth. So Oregon does health care with federal dollars different, and many would say better and more effectively, than yours and every other state. It's called the Oregon health Plan. The Gov. was looking out for the state and via lots of peoples input, you get "the Oregon Experiment". I know someone who rolled down a cliff and the near $50,000 bill was funded via this experiment, which doesn't spend a dime more than your state per person (they say). Yet they won't pay for high risk/high expense transplants. Is that wrong? As far as what this one said when he "expressed concern that expanding unemployment insurance coverage would lead to increased unemployment insurance taxes later on." “The federal money in this bill will run out in less than three years for this benefit and our businesses would then be stuck paying the bill,” Jindal said. “We must be careful and thoughtful as we examine all the strings attached to the funding in this package. We cannot grow government in an unsustainable way.” "Jindal is one of a small group of Republican governors, which includes South Carolina’s Mark Sanford and Mississippi’s Haley Barbour, who have said they might refuse some or all of the stimulus money targeted to their states. In an interview Friday, Barbour said he, too, would likely decline funds for broadening access to unemployment insurance. “Subject to learning more, my position is that Mississippi won’t accept funds that require us to have a tax increase later, because [they would force] us to change our rules for qualifying for unemployment compensation,” he said." This is "Criminal Irresponsibility" and these other officials should be tarred and feathered for not wanting to increase your tax bill later? PLEASSSEEE! Give me a break. You want to tar and feather someone, go hit the Illinois Governor who was selling favors to line his pocket.

I suspect that Prole thinks there is never a bill that is due as long as the government is giving money away. That money just is created from thin air, I suspect he believes, and has no basis in reality. Full story: "Louisiana Gov. Bobby Jindal announced Friday that he will decline stimulus money specifically targeted at expanding state unemployment insurance coverage, becoming the first state executive to officially refuse any part of the federal government’s payout to states. In a statement, Jindal, who is slated to give the Republican response to President Barack Obama’s message to Congress on Tuesday, expressed concern that expanding unemployment insurance coverage would lead to increased unemployment insurance taxes later on. “The federal money in this bill will run out in less than three years for this benefit and our businesses would then be stuck paying the bill,” Jindal said. “We must be careful and thoughtful as we examine all the strings attached to the funding in this package. We cannot grow government in an unsustainable way.” Jindal is one of a small group of Republican governors, which includes South Carolina’s Mark Sanford and Mississippi’s Haley Barbour, who have said they might refuse some or all of the stimulus money targeted to their states. In an interview Friday, Barbour said he, too, would likely decline funds for broadening access to unemployment insurance. “Subject to learning more, my position is that Mississippi won’t accept funds that require us to have a tax increase later, because [they would force] us to change our rules for qualifying for unemployment compensation,” he said. It is not clear which, if any, other parts of the stimulus funding Republican governors will decline. But initial suggestions that anti-stimulus governors might decline all the funds targeted for their states have faded. Joel Sawyer, Sanford’s communications director, said the South Carolina governor was still reviewing his options with respect to the stimulus. “We haven’t made any decisions on any part of the stimulus yet,” Sawyer said."

Of course not Mr Pink, only PUSSIES pre-place draws....wait...wuz zat yeller thing up dere? ......hmmmm.... Shirley knot..say it ain't so!??!!!!!!!!! take care dudes:-)

One of you was suppose to bring up that "looks like a Rat Turd in the sugar bowl" comment that gets used for everything under the sun and then we could have had 20 more pages charging racism with people calling each other names like any other normal internet site.... This is sadly just going to quietly head to a back page though....so much opportunity just wasted....

Thanks Malcolm, I pulled those numbers directly off the story. I should know better than to trust the internet. I suspect that everyone who has copied the pic has added a few feet to the potential length!

Ha ha!, Have you seen some of the sizes of the Pythons in the Everglades? They should never have let those, and a bunch of other "pet" species into this country. Here's one that exploded trying to swallow an Alligator. Expect snakes up to 30 feet long eventually although 10-13 is the range now, and if it warms up a tad more, ranging up the eastern seaboard to New Jersey perhaps. A new entrant to the top of the food chain in Florida...like the birds nesting in the sawgrass needed this.

Not a word has been heard after all these years.... I was thinking of this because of this: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/868346#Post868346

If the alleged victim had laid still for a few moments, he may have drifted into unconsciousness and froze solid in the snow. If the kids hadn't have come along, he'd be dead now. This ring any bells? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/446479/site_id/1#import

Yes, as I get out into far out parts of Skamania county all the time I think and might have been a bit wired there. I meant to say "The alleged perps"....and "the alleged assholes" or something to that effect...thanks for the heads up and the reminder, you are of course correct. Of course, the father and chief role model there appears to be an actual sex offender, as he didn't register for it...so I guess we should actually be saying "The actual asshole convicted sex offender and his alleged son are wanted..." or perhaps something like that ? I'm unsure here. I wouldn't know how to integrate this info either "In January 2001, Michael Collins was arrested after he allegedly led police on an 80 mph vehicle chase, nearly hitting two vehicles, and crashed near Crestline Elementary School, according to The Columbian's files." Thank God the alleged asshole didn't kill any little kids that time. They may be neighbors of Kevbone. Bone? Keep an eye out for this vehicle as well: A black 1998 Ford Explorer Washington license 455YHY, apparently the alleged murderous scum just up and decided to kill him when they stole his car ..he was co-operating, maybe so that he wouldn't talk.

2 people have been detained as material witness's and police are looking for these 2. The news story says: "The Skamania County sheriff's office issued warrants for Michael David Collins and his son Teven David Collins, both Vancouver residents, as suspects in the case. They are believed to be somewhere in the southwestern United States. Skamania County officials are working with federal and state authorities to track them down. " Pictures to help you on that question Wayne, these are the wanted men pussy assholes: Michael David Collins and his son Teven David Collins They beat this poor bastard for no reason until they thought he was dead then they tossed the body into the bushes and left. The end of the news story says "Michael Collins is also wanted for failing to register as a sex offender. " Assuming a court of law determines the fasts are as they appear. Who would argue against the death penalty here? Because if they feel that way, maybe they can keep this violent sex offender in their house and try to personally rehabilitate the asswipe as they system is doing so badly on these kinds of things.

I can't imagine anyone giving the hate. Some dudes obviously stepped on their dicks and you are helping them everyone out. Frankly given the vitriol on this site if nothing else, I'm surprised they lasted that long....., I can think of a couple of much better places for a bolt route. There is an old one at da Butte from the late 50's which could be regenerated if nothing else. BTW, the Cabbage patch you mention has been there since I first went up there in 1967. I was up there last year and the guy is still growing great looking produce. You can drive right up to it on top as it turns out all those farms have roads right up to them.

I've never tried to print out one of those. I browse at my desk essentially.

Good names! I just stumbled on a pic of the late great Michael Reardon and had nearly forgotten his creed that every climber should solo naked on occasion. And on airy interlude below. I think he actually had a "Naked Soloing Club" going and they'd regularly get out for naked climbs. They were climbing in some fairly public places too. Hard to imagine a sneaker wave was what killed him.