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Everything posted by billcoe
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http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/valleygiant.html Tom Kasper is still making them...for now. He's talked about stopping. Not reasonable ($175) but new:-) Good luck
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LOL, classic, ....but was that you Don?
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Damn Larry, nice mini-epic and good on you for getting on it....but it sounds like a....(wait for it....) WARDROBE MALFUNCTION! omg! HBOLY SHIT, i'VE CLIMBED WITH THAT GUY...aDAM...aDAM WHASHISNAME....ERR...aDAM ...YEAH!!! Look! 3 days ago in the Gunks....
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Ray Jardine on Separate Reality, 1976, Yosemite. Mark Chapman on Owl Roof, 1973, Yosemite. Dean Potter free soloing Dogs Roof, Yos.
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Ground up, but I wouldn't call them either runout or sport lines. I remember climbing Angel Flight Buttress as a lad at Smith, one of Jim Anglins early (ground up hand drill) bolted routes. At that time, there was consensus that there were places, even if you clipped every (of the sparse) bolt, you would hit the ground if you fell at the wrong place from way up high (like the 100 foot range). There was nothing even close to resembleing that down there. Yet power drills are banned in the valley, so bolts, when they are found in most routes, seem to be real necessary and eagerly/greedily clipped when you do find them. ps, thats some wild looking rock formations up there.
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Hope you have an awesome time. France is high on my list of great places. The Freedom Fries are not to be missed.
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LOL! Classic! I was down there 3 or so years ago, and my buddies hooked up with a longtime local friend (over 30+ years climbing in the valley and had been hired by Royal Robbins to guide for his mountaineering school BITD). We went and did some (some) bolted lines which were not in any guidebooks and some that were and it was surprising, fun and interesting.
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Good on you for finally getting to the real meat and potatoes! About time someone did some real climbing. Can you imagine all those many wankers from the 70's, 80's and 90's that were there before you walking right past those cliffs and ignoring them to go boulder! Crazy dudes them.
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No, I wish, that's my brother, I'm the other one.
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Welcome to CC.Com and back to climbing Doug! Good luck with it all....I'm surprised that these guys are doing guidebooks for an area on private land at all. I guess that maybe the moss will be kept down with more people though....
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Oh. You didn't know that rock was glued on there with epoxy?
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[TR] Outrageous Times - A Success on Mount Hood & S.H. - 6/27/2010
billcoe replied to Josh Lewis's topic in Oregon Cascades
Way to get after it! Loved the many photos but there were a couple you could have passed on. You're setting the bar high on the amount of pics needed for a trip report and hopefully some of these other guys take note:-) Really loved the pics of the Trillium and the photo of the mountain shadow. Thanks for sharing, looks like you have 2 great climbs. -
Interesting...but I can say that if there is no guide to the area, it will probably still sell. In fact, it will eventually become the real facts and the truth more than likely unless folks come out with a real version. On Mountainproject Peter Franzen said: I think that's on the money, and as this is private land, highly and strongly suggest that you guys quietly talk to these folks directly about your concerns. I suspect these guys are not assclowns at all, but probably just good dudes who are super enthused and jazzed on the place. Maybe there shouldn't be a guidebook at all and the Mountainproject posts pulled. You guys really need to talk this over a beer or 3 looking each other in the eyes.... with no name calling too . Good luck!
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Looking forward to the pics, good read! ps, 11b is what it is isn't it?
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Prattling of course. ...and you had to ask...why? LOL! ps, JUSTIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HOUND!!!!!!Where are you dudes?
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Shite! Missed the Top 20 by one!!! But I'm only ~50 posts behind minx, so I should claw my way into it soon! Can we add Donkey Fellator to the total to help get you over the hump Paul?
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Sounds illegal anyway.
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Like my sidewalk.
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How is it that the cc.com brain trust has been unable to resolve this important question lo these many years? ______________________________________________________________ Everest is gettin' there.
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Well, Ivan registered before you did Kev, AND has many many more actual climbing related posts, yet you have more posts. As your posts are NON-climbing related, AND you don't post but the rare climbing picture -you obviously lead Ivan as a sprayer by a long shot. Yet Chuck_Norris (Member #9789) has 9987830 post it says. So I'll go with Chuck. The whole picture here link ______________________________________________________________ reference post
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Donkey Fellator? Haha, now thats capricious! ...or HeeeeHahhhh as it goes.
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I thought is was pretty good, note the comment at the bottom though. LOL! "John Stossel Entrepreneurship Helps Make America Great For all its problems, America is a great place. And one thing that makes America great is its prosperity. Yes, some people have suffered during the recession -- but compared to all the other countries in the history of the world, America is rich. Why? One reason is that America is a good place to do business. Dinesh D'Souza, author of "What's So Great about America," points out: "In most other societies, the businessman has been looked down upon. He's been seen as a kind of sleazy guy. But then American founders specifically put protection for patents and trademarks in the Constitution. And suddenly, the entrepreneur is taken from the bottom of the heap and brought to the front." Today, Asian students crush Americans on standardized tests, but it's Americans who invent things like the transistor and the integrated circuit and go on to win disproportionate numbers of Nobel Prizes. Our culture of entrepreneurship turns that science into wealth. TV pitchman Anthony Sullivan is from Britain, but he says his business didn't thrive there. "I found in England if there's 10 reasons you could do something, there's 20 reasons why you couldn't do it, you shouldn't do it, " says Sullivan. "I found in the States that people will give you a shot." One sign of this attitude is that it's relatively easy to start a business here. I opened one in Wilmington, Del. I named it the Stossel Store. It was just a table from which I pitched my "Give Me a Break" book and Fox merchandise. I picked Wilmington because our research showed that Delaware and Nevada make opening a business easier than other states. It still took me a week to get legal permission, but it would have taken much longer in Europe. "I have started businesses in the U.K. and India. It takes at least a month or more just to open doors," A.J. Khubani, president of TeleBrands, says. Unfortunately, bureaucrats are threatening this good part of America. I had to register with the Delaware Secretary of State and the Division of Corporations, get a federal employer identification number, buy commercial liability insurance, register with the Delaware state Department of Finance, etc. I didn't even try to open a business in my hometown, New York City, because the bureaucracy is so ferocious. The fastest-growing cities of the world make it easier. In Hong Kong several years ago, I got a business permit in just one day. It's a reason Hong Kong is rich. Entrepreneurs are encouraged. But at least America is a close second. America also has a different idea about failure. The Stossel Store was a bad idea. I lost money. D'Souza says that in other places, that would be evidence that I am a complete failure. I tried to make a profit, failed and so shouldn't try again. That's the attitude in most of the world, says D'Souza. "You say: 'You know what? I tried my hand at business. It didn't work. Now, let me take a salary job where I'll have some security." He says that's not true in America. "An American will start a company. It'll fail. Pretty soon, he's starting a newspaper, or he's now trying to export fish to Japan." We know that Thomas Edison invented the light bulb, but Edison failed much more often than he succeeded. He had hundreds of failures. He was fired by the telegraph office, and lost money on a cement company and an iron business. Henry Ford's first company failed completely. Dr. Seuss' first book was rejected by 27 publishers. Oprah was fired from her first job as a reporter. A TV station called her unfit for television. "There's something in the American temperament that says, 'Gosh, I lost seven times but that's OK,'" D'Souza says. "And I think that that's a resiliency of the American spirit." It's one of several great things about America." (In the comments section) The first transistor was invented by a Canadian and the first integrated circuit by a Brit."
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Ditto for both Rob and Eagle. I miss having little kids around, but confess that it's nice getting driven home by your adult kid and not worrying about a DUI after a few cocktails too.