billcoe

I recall clipping one of the newer off route bolts the left of P4 Young Warriors YW last year (maybe the year before that?). They're not new. (brand new but they were added not long back) It was very confusing and screwed up YW for me. I asked around and heard that folks had retro (added) bolts to an old Wayne Wallace route that peels off of P3 of the Corner (to the right, near exactly in the middle). I figured Jim or some other crusty would chop them, but will note that once I pulled my head out of my ass...no small feat thank you very much, and did the line without clipping them, staying to the right where God intended, it made the route much more enjoyable. Pitty the fools that head over and clip them. I take it that was you this go round? On that subject, I heard it was Kevin E owned up and chopped his own baloney add on bolt at the top of the Corner (traditional finish), maybe you can both thank him nicely, and show him how it's suppose to be done: he totally cucked up the rock (if that was him). Not that I'm bitching, OK, maybe a bit - but I've seen your work and it's like you fix Swiss watches in your free time it's so good. That's all I know....not much... as usual. :-) Now that the rains have returned it's time for a good winter Beacon argument to get started again.

Wasn't me this time.

Picking up the slack for Ivan. Last week U and I did the Car to car in 1 hour I didn't post it up. This weeks go round (yesterday) Ujahn, JT and I did a leisurely corner lap. Played hooky from work and we parked at 2:45pm. There were a couple of kids just hitting the Tree on P 2 as we hiked to the base and we caught the 2nd where the Uprising diverges from the regular route. We did Uprising to not crowd the kids and car to car time was 3 hours. Ground was wet, but the only wet crack was P 3 at the start of it where the 1st piece goes. Fantastic day, fantastic company. Jeff Thomas.

Not just dad friendly, but kid friendly as well. These guys bolted up one of the low angle slabs that most of us would think class4, just for kids. There's no cliff below they would fall off either, so even little kids could hang out. Some might find such a thing ridiculous or something we should ridicule, but if you consider little kids as the intended recipients, then it's an awesome thing. Dayum Ivan, great shots! The 3 main weakness of the place is that the routes are all pretty close to the same, slab. Next is that it's not a consistent angle like glacier point, but lays back and gets too easy in lots of places. 3rd, the base needs work, so bring a saw and a Pulaski to help make it flat. Still, great place for a canckle workout and a fun days outing. Get a book and get it now while it's still relatively unknown and uncrowded. They did a good job cleaning it all off, and we didn't wear helmets, Ivan, Geoff and Kyle had them but as you can see they were back on the ground. But if it gets crowded, there are still a few loose rocks here or there that a rope could easily kick off, worth bringing one and using it.

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/102119-new-climbing-area-monte-cristo-slab-and-new-guidebook/ I put this in Columbia River Gorge area, but its rightfully SW Washington. So just a heads up/FYI thing.

Got invited out to a new area today. As we were discussing it, buddy noted that "it was in the guidebook". Sure as heck, there is a new guidebook and the area, Monte Cristo Slab, has 60 routes in it. Did some trail work, followed a few routes when Ivan and both Silvermans were smart enough to bring a rope and draws and also nice enough to let me tie in. The area has only bolts, plenty of them and they're in the right place. You can walk off or do multiple raps off, the slab is @250 feet tall. I suspect it's going to be insanely popular, despite being up past Willard, Wa. This is a granitic type rock (diorite) that will hone your mid-range grades before you head to the Valley. Good stuff. The cover shot is of the area. (copied from Powell's link) Here's the link to buy the book. Jason (new dude I just met) had a copy, and I was able to peruse it. Saw that Hunchback is finally outed in a the guidebook too! That an plenty of bouldering areas. http://www.powells.com/book/-9780999723302

Bravo! Good work and a good time appeared to be had by all.

Wayne rules, I'd be there with my gimpy knee but live too far away. BUMP! PS, IN OTHER NEWZ, CC GOTS A CALENDER? ! WOOT, MOVIN' UP ! Opps, capslock thing. again

You've been gone too long DH, heads up and spread the word that Joes been upgraded to "above average" decent person now and not to be F**ed with as in the past, since @ 3 weeks ago. Anyway, to Kenny's family, I didn't really know him, but I know how tough it can be, and wish you well. I'll touch base with a few folks who might not read it here that may have been buddies and let them know. FYI in case you don't know the climber trail to the S face is closed currently, something Kenny would have stepped right over, kicked down or at least taken a moment to piss on if he was here, but let folks know where you want to meet up, maybe in the parking lot and head up to the trial right where the SE Corner tops out, - hopefully you have good weather.

I apologize and mean no disrespect. It's tough, as we all know, nothing I say will change any of that. There are a lot of nuances which we miss in making bold declarative statements, it's harder to type it than say it. I'll bow out now with that final note.

OK, that was me that toss you in there. LUCK you say? LUCK? Pfft. Jens it looks like I'll have to take your name off and sub in Reinhold Messner......(kidding). Not all luck. I will note that Messner noted that if you drill the correct procedures into your own head so many times that when you are exhausted and out of it and the shit has hit the fan (my summation), you still do the correct thing on autopilot that will still get you out alive. That is what luck can be for some and that luck pulled his fat out of the fire many many times. That said, I know luck played a big role in Messners life, as the well known story of Reinhold Messner and his late brother Gunner will attest to. The pain of losing Gunner was crushing for him no question. I think we all choose where we want our own risk level to be. It certainly changes over time, but for some, it is much higher, and those of us still on the ground cradling our children watching others fly to new heights are shocked, impressed, astounded, upset, and a whole bunch of other things as well. It is about choices. No doubt. In this instance, I suspect that they chose to go light and fast. If so, they were out of fuel and thus water days ago and a happy ending isn't to be I'm sorry to say. I hope I wrong and if that were my kid I'd be all over that area trying to get rescue personal in there...... Now, what was Bob saying again? Oh, Polish folks. Amazing. Slovakians and Russians at times as well. Here's something worth reading as well https://marcleclerc.blogspot.com/ I got to cook some rice up for dinner now. Take care all, and may they both found before the rice finishes.

Didn't seem that long ago Marc Leclerc was a snot nosed kid posting on CC.com getting harassed by some of you old nose pickers. He turned into a bad ass pretty quick, certainly enough to know and accept the risks he took. There is still a decent chance they walk out of this one too, and I know we all wish them the best. I'm not sure "applauding" the risks is the way I'd say it, more like impressed by the risks and beating the odds. Off White has it well said about Donini above, (" it does seem that objective hazards can only be somewhat ameliorated by skill and experience. "), but then you have guys like Uli Steck who had otherworldly skill and strength and it still didn't work out. We all know if you choose to live the high risk game you play by different stakes. Big mountains, big stakes. I think you can be a badass and mitigate the risks somewhat. Look at Mikey, Blake Herrington, Jens, T. Caldwell... lots of folks.... ...maybe we're all on the same page but need a campfire, some drinks and part of an evening to get the whole thing out on the table.

I do. Mar 2nd 2018, he said: " Never forget the wamest jacket on earth is the one having the most fun ". Annnnd you're welcome Oly:-)

Remembering this tale was causing my palms to start sweating again, in revisiting it I see that I'd totally missed or forgotten Ivans comment 8 years back.

HOLY SHITE MUSLIM! Bold shite man, bold. I made it to the parking lot @ 11am thinking some cleaning and jugging might do the trick. Stepped out of the car thinking I'd be pleased to not have the car door ripped off it's hinges in the hurricane, made it to the restroom and back. A brief reflection of the wind knocking rocks off of Tower Rock with a trip you were on, coupled with another, generally more careful climber getting whacked unconscious by said rock where I wanted to go play gave me pause for reconsideration. Successfully opened the car door again and came home where it was still a balmy 43 degrees and no wind. Only thing of interest and suspicion was the park ranger truck and 2 BSNF "Police" vehicles parked in the climbers area.

Checking in the Bob's update. Glad I posted the full text, it's been a long time and I would have forgotten. Sorry about the ankle Bob, but if I can make one positive note, if we do tie in together now, I have a better chance of keeping up with you.:-) And Jason, no fury here. Not even sure what side of the isle I'd be tossed if I was in fact dwarf tossed onto one side. I read the 4th Turning recently and realized that regardless of the distractions, we're all fucked. Soon. Along those lines, if'n any of you read recently that the US was going to be putting in some anti missile defenses and you were thinking Guam and Hawaii at some point: it's on. They're in. Not in the news yet - an eyewitness reports that 5 or 6 anti-missile battery's are going in right now at the Ilwaco CC station mouth of the Columbia. The West coast will soon have other installations if they haven't been emplaced already. Just a heads up to pray for peace but do what you can to prep. It's moving along right briskly, horrifyingly to the thinking man, grinding over everything in it's path.

Slick vid!

Don't give up the ship just yet. There's at least one warm day, if not more, left in the year. 25 or bust amigo!

XDKMCM DUR 55!!!! ADN GUDE JB OLY!!!

The writer nailed it too. Touching tribute. It's damned hard to do a brief summary of a person (family's) important points in that short of an article and still make it interesting. You're cutting out 7/8 of their life. I feel like I want to buy Lowell a beer just for being a good dude now just from reading it. The world needs more folks like those folks, sadly too many whom are not with us now, that's why yer heart goes out. I remember reading about Carl's death on Cascade Climbers, although it was sad and I'd never met the guy, was also shocked to learn about his impressive bad-ass accomplishments that he had quietly racked up. My best wishes go out to them all:

That's an insanely cute pup! Congrats! Looks expensive too. What ya pay for him? Bet it was at least $200 bucks. Good luck with the mags, I'm even more clueless on those so no help here.

Saw those boys on YW todays, Jim and Sal making sure all was well. Wondered how it went for them. They started on Rythem Method thinking it was YW, Jim got them moved over. They liked Rythem Method. They were on the 2nd pitch Young Warriors so we walked under and went corner. They were accepting advice and at the P2 belay as we went past. Didn't them again. We dropped in and toproped both Separation Anxiety and Hazy Daze on the West Side. We both got a lap on each although Ujahn wanted Hazy Daze twice. One lap on both and I was toast: full sun 81 degrees. Car to car in 2-1/2 hours.

It appeared to me that the firefolks had backburned all along I-5 JH, that's why it looked so good. Basically they concentrated and positioned their forces, bulldozed firelanes where needed, waited for a favorable wind, then started a fire from the road and it burned uphill. That results in the underbrush burning and significant fuel reduction and it's usually quite some time uphill until the trees crown out and start to burn. The Clackamas fire of 2 years back is an example of that. From the road the trees are green, once you get to where the backburn either flashed into the tree tops or met the oncoming wildfire, it looks like a charred desert. Then the rains come and eventually the underbrush the next years starts in looking green again.

Out at Beacon both Sat and Sunday. Smokin ash. Lots of it both days although it let up some here and there. Kind of came and went. Paid the $2 to cross Bridge of The Gods and drive back on the newly opened 1-84. Lots of little smoldering spots yet. Was happy to get out and have a great weekend as the forcast is rain Monday, ie today, until forever. I pulled up the rain radar and it looks like Eagle Creek area is getting good and moist, so hope that fire season just ended. Last week Ujahn and I did a lap on Wednesday at Beacon and the smoke pretty much stayed away for the most part. Went to Skamania for a beer and entertainment. Loaned the waitress my Steiners and she was pretty surprised and happy. The flames were directly across the river, appeared to be shooting up hundreds of feet.