snoboy

quote: Originally posted by Mtn. Dude: Can you help settle an argument? Maybe One opinion believes that the best system is rope around a tree and tied off by a locking biner to a figure eight. Can you clarify this? Is the fig8 in the end of the rope, how many times is it around the tree? The other opinion is that the rope should be wrapped around a tree and tied back onto itself in a figure eight. Again, where is the fig8? the point of an argument is which is stronger...or are they both sufficiently strong methods to anchor a TR? If they are what I am picturing, they are both good. Iain - I don't think he is talking about tensionless tie offs, although he may be. I also think in the second case, he is talking about tieing off to the tree like you would a harness, not a tensionless with a knot instead of a biner?? Or maybe he's just trolling...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I was TRYING to use them today, I skiied uphill but was to scared to ski down icy snowmobile track It's true! I never thought I would see Dru on skis, but I did today. I would have been scared too, if I was wearing mountaineering boots! quote: Originally posted by yaya: I wish I was Muffy The Wanker Sprayer Me too!, That is, I wish you were MtWS.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Lbs of Toblerone and 12 inch inflatable mattresses is enough to make me puke. I suppose if you ate it all at once... But really guys what is wrong with Toblerone?

quote: Originally posted by cj001f: Take a look at these test for rope aging questions: http://filebox.vt.edu/users/raedward/cisdetrop.html Strength loss is well correlatable to Rope use, not age. From the "7/16" diameter, and the National Speleological Society references, I am thinking they are talking about static lines. The issue with aging in a climbing rope is not loss of strength, but loss of elasticity, ie shock absorption. At least that's what I always understood. Too lazy to find something to back it up right now. ALthough they say it themslves now that I look closer, "The energy absorption’s of the used ropes were, however, less than that of the standard by as much as two thirds [snip]." [ 11-22-2002, 06:11 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Bring the uni-mog to the bar I think it's too tall to get through the door! [ 11-22-2002, 05:59 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

OK I'm a little behind in this, because I had to work today So I am going to have to catch up on the reading and then do some research... In the meantime, some fuel for the fire: The options on the Barryvox are: 1)Digital or Digital Analog 2)Revert to send? No/4min/8min 3)Earphone volume 4)Speaker config in the Digital mode basically wether you hear an analog tone, or digital tone in the primary and secondary searchs. 5)Direction indication stops at: 3m/0.3m (in D mode) Not really that confusing is it? I'll be back...

I helped pull a 8'x3'x1' flake off a friends project in Squish this last winter. Not really alpine, but it was raining, so maybe it can count. We got at least two trees and two bolts for our trouble. They were the bolts we were supposed to rap off to get down. One was sheared right off, the other was a flattened hanger.

quote: Originally posted by Winter: quote:1. Cranking first V4 problem 2. FA on a 5.10d trad line down in Oaxaca. Let me get this right ... you just sent a v4 and your leading 10d trad? Perhaps I'm being trolled ... but what's up with that? I don't get it Winter. Why is that inconsistent?

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Doesnt the nose of el crap face south? Yep, and it's one of the easiest wall routes on the formation. Is Elcap young though in comparision to many of the routes we are looking at here?

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: I've been told that switching from free-heel to down hill takes no longer than it takes a skier to remove thier skins and lock your heels? Freeheel skiers just pick up their foot with the ski on it, grab the tail of the skin and rip 'n' go. I'm ready to shred in about 30 seconds after I catch my breath.

quote: Originally posted by Toast: quote:Originally posted by mammut_rep: I agree that the Barryvox seems to have a lot of settings, but there aren't any more than you would find on a standard cell phone. How much you want to bet your average Joe doesn't fumble a few times trying to dig up their third most recent missed call and save it. Now add the confusion of an emergency Wouldn't you really rather have the most basic device possible? 'Course, that's just me. The idea with the Barryvox, is that you set the settings before you use it. Then in the field the only thing to worry about is switching from analog to digital and back, if you configured it that way. And hey, if it gets more people reading the manual, that's a good thing, no?

Awesome! I saw last years show, and it was one of the coolest things I ever did see. This year it was cloudy. quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Watched the sky come apart for a few hours last night. Several hundred falling stars. Lots of tracers. All natural.

quote: Originally posted by fern: you forgot the part where you don't get to turn off the first beacon after you find it. Thanks! But I bet if they are digging up a 60cm deep pack they are going to be "running a little late." For those of you haven't done the CAA Level 1 course; this is the test that you must pass. Under 5 min to pass, under 3 to get full marks, and if you don't pass the beacon test first try, you don't pass the course.

quote: If anyone is interested in looking at some test results from an independent test in Austria on all of the more popular beacons on the market, e-mail me and I can forward you a copy of it. I would be very interested in seeing this. However I tried to email you and your address is blocked from the board. I'll PM you my e-mail. Maybe you could post a link to it, if it is on the web somewhere?

Alright, the season is on us, so let's get motivated. I propose an honour bound beacon contest. Here are the rules: 1)Two beacons 2)Minimum 60cm burial (2 ft.) 3)Probe hits required. You can leave the first probe in. Put them in a pack or under a crazy carpet so you have something to hit. 4)Hilly terrain prefered. Note if your field is flat. Let's hear about your best times, and what beacon/technique you are using. Here's mine from Jan 2001 - 3:40 with an F1, using the SOS arc technique.

quote: Originally posted by Toast: I think you mean digital then analogue No, I think he said what he meant to say. The Barryvox can operate in analog, then switch to digital after picking up a signal. This serves to increase the effective range in the initial search. Don't quote me on this though.

quote: Originally posted by JoshK: I Think the newer analog/digital beacons are very good technology. I have the mammut one, whatever it's called, and it's like the x1, working in analog and then digital as you get closer. I agree that they are a good thing too. I don't think that they replace practice, and I think there is some risk that some people believe they can. I am actually buying a Mammut Barryvox too this week. One thing I like is that I can set it up as an analog beacon until I am confident in my abilitites to use it in digital mode. I find when the beacon takes over and starts switching modes and stuff I get confused. quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: i'd rather be skiing with someone who has this beacon and little more than some common sense than with someone with an old beacon who may or may NOT remember how to use it. I did say lots of practice, and meant to imply that they also remembered how to use it. [ 11-19-2002, 04:50 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by Toast: do I even remember how to use this thing? that's why ortovox made the x1. With my experience, I find that the digital beacons require even more practice than the analog ones in multiple burials. Of course I am an old fart, who doesn't want to throw down for the new tech. Results from competitions seem to suggest that the Tracker and such, are ultimately faster in practiced hands. In a single burial the digital beacons are certainly more intuitive, although I still get thrown off by the lag, and the lack of volume control (something the X1 may address). It doesn't matter what beacon you have. Practice is essential. If I was under the snow I'd rather the person up top had an old Ortovox and lots of practice than a brand new X1.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I think, Trask got banned!!!!! * and thus it fucked up anybody's mailbox with a PM from him? This could be. I was never blessed with a communique from the trask, and my mailbox works fine...hmmm. Bummer about the banning.

who makes fun of the quote: Originally posted by iain: giant Toblerone bar

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: sent it on the first day it was posted here... Me too. One day I hope to do an ice road trip down that way.

quote: Originally posted by Skisports: No offence I can read too. Not sure about the rest of the posters though...

quote: Originally posted by fern: snoboy built an ice wall in Squampton once. [snip]Perhaps dramatic license and exaggeration augment the truth in this story but the lesson holds - ice is heavy and can squish you good, so be careful with your 'farming' It's true I did. Kinda. It was a lot of work, and the weather wasn't cold enough for long enough to get enough ice to climb. If I find any pictures as I'm packing, I'll post em. I wonder, wouldn't the rope break before the bolts?? Maybe it was a chain? When I climbed Cascade in Canmore, there was lengths of fire hose tied off to the anchors. Maybe for the same idea? quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: that picture rocks. i'm jealous! Watch out LG, don't show too much enthusiasm... [ 11-18-2002, 05:22 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

quote: Originally posted by mtnnut: I was talking to a shop guy and apparently the principle differences are that the Freeride doesn't have a return spring (which are available for like $10) and comes with the brakes. The freerides also have a max DIN of 12 as opposed to 10. Interesting about the spring though. A lot of my friends have taken the spring out of their Diamirs... quote: The price of the Titanal III with brakes is pretty darn near that of the Freeride, and it wouldn't suprise me if the weight isn't that far off too. From BD Freeride=2.11kg, Diamir w/ std brake =2.0kg. Difference=.11kg=about 1/4lb. I don't think any of this is answering the original questions.

quote: Originally posted by Skisports: Any takers on which one is better, for strength vrs weight. ect???? Dynafit if you want best strength/weight ratio. No real opinions on Diamars though.