snoboy

quote: Originally posted by eric8: Metal Hexes sound cool I doubt there lying about strength, however, i to would question durability of the peices. Me too. I mean my metal ones are almost worn out!

quote: Originally posted by Bug: Stefan. You said it was a fluke. I respectfully disagree. You made a mistake my friend. Don't do it the same way ever again. [snip] I hope your injuries heal quickly and your pride can handle the truth. You have to change something. Watch out, I think we are headed the same way as the "I've been humbled..." thread.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: No offense snoboy, I was just spraying something so I could call DFA an "ass-hound". None taken, not by me at least.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I'm all about speed and efficiency. Clip the shit and go. That's all. Good call

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Tell JK to stop using chord when there are 2 fat bolts and suffient length chains. Fucker climbs well though! Hey what's wrong with cord on bolts?? I like to thread the chains and use one draw to keep the rope off the chains. Does that make sense?? This for TopRopes of course. Finally - Page Top. 1/116 =<1% [ 11-07-2002, 03:09 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

And what exactly am I whining about, pray tell? quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It's sour grapes, fucktard. Either way, he's whining, ass-hound.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Sometimes certain crampoons will not fit certain boots as well. So make sure you choose boots first and try the crampons on them before you buy!!

[ 11-07-2002, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

Make sure someone shows you how to use a cordelette. They are the most versatile item you can carry. Cordelette = 5m (16.5 ft) of 7mm cord = rap slings or prussic or anchor or??

quote: Originally posted by Ibex: Stove- cat/tuna can stove. works like a champ in 3 season conditions. Use HEET gas deicer for fuel. http://www.pcthiker.com/pages/gear/catstove.shtml Or try this one another stove I've made a couple of these but haven't tested them yet. Use a "chicago bolt" for the filler cap. Water bottles = Empty soda bottles. Wool gloves from the hardware store are better than any fleece gloves I've tried. Photocopy maps from the library.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: So, it seems like they must have taken this into account in their choice/design of polymers, but wouldn't the shit just shear right out of the placement? Sketch-o concept. The Doctor certainly wouldn't be jumping at the chance to take whips on plastic bolts, anyway. Plastic bolts Well they might be good for alpine stuff eh? Light enough. Do they have a plastic drill too? Maybe we should give T.Shoes some for his project at Nesakawatch. Seriously though - I would imagine they tested these things. ( I hope!) I remember seeing something about them a few years back. If the hex has a good placement I bet it would be OK. I think the nuts would give me the though.

quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: YEAH BABY About F'IN time! Can you tell I'm getting a little antsy? Yay!!!

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: Snoboy. This has not so much to do with making a mistake. It is about the mistakes being made due to improper training and experience and NOT listening to others when they blatently point it out to you. It is about NOT assessing your own skills and knowledge and it's about embellishing them, which never helps. I agree with what you are saying here. I have been taking issue more with how people are saying it than what they are saying. I am also taking issue with people assuming that she has learnt nothing from the experience. Wheeww! This thread sure is going on & on. Soon it will be Except for a few choice comments, I would have to say that the last two pages are probably the most useful commentary on this whole topic. Let's hope we can all get on with having fun, safely, and friendships can be rebuilt where neccesary. Maybe there are asshole flight instructors, but wouldn't know. I know that if all my climbing mentors were, I probably would have quit this game a long time ago. I think there is a difference between being straight up blunt with someone, and what was going on here though. quote: Originally posted by Anna: Sorry all for being rude back there, I guess it is pretty hard to take "I just blew him off..or..knowing her "character", she is an accident waiting to happen so I'm gonna walk away" Climb on.... I'm sure it hard to take. It is hard to say that some times too. But I have been blasted so many times for trying to save some persons ass, that I usally just leave these days. Good luck all. [ 11-03-2002, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: except after fishing...it was thiiiiis big! Isn't goin' fishin' kinda count as a hunt?

quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: NOPE.... what am I missing? You're missing lots. If you read the book, then you will get a recipe for "Souris a la Creme." Who could live without that??

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: No, I am serious. there are some nice lines to hammer down there without having to worry about ethics-mongers charging away at you. Try "Thunderbolts and Lightning" nice thin roof crack next to the Big Eave.

quote: Originally posted by Tyrone Shoes: Well it seems (SNOWBOY) that some other people besides myself and CHIPS do understand what we were talking about. Once again, forget about being rude or arrogant, It has nothing to do with it. NOTHING. What we are talking about is, Know thy self and know thy partner If you can't acept that at face value and process the notion in a usefull way...well then...I guess we'll read about ya in the obituaries. It's that simple, sorry was that rude? Well Mr Shoes, I think the way a message is delivered is important. Do you think Anna really got anything from your message? I don't, not from the way she responded to you. I don't know if she got anything from what any of us said though? No, that wasn't rude at all. Have you climbed with Anna?

quote: Originally posted by shredmaximus: quote: didnt' he say that she equalized her anchor so that if one piece failed, all failed? Ummm...no I think it was obviously the LACK of equalization that caused it to fail. Ok I was trying to stay out of this for a while, but what the hell... I think that it was jk who said she had built a TR anchor that was sketchy, ie one piece fail=all fail. Why is it obvious that a lack of Equilization caused failure? If the pieces were good, then any single piece should have held her.

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: i didn't find outer space particularly challenging and it protected easily... i trust taht when someone tells me they are experienced at climbing hard 10's multi-pitch and i am comfortable with the same...but mabe i am jsut a rare person that values honesty... Fair enough. Each persons level of challenge is different. For me any multi-pitch is a serious enough endeavour to need to know your partner. I'm not saying they need to be ultra competent, I just need to know where I stand that day. If I am trusting someone to build an anchor to hang my ass off, then I want to see them demonstrate that before I am 50m off the ground.

Hey I've got a question. Did Anna learn? I think shredmaximus said at some point that her gear up to the pin was good. So what went wrong with her anchor. Maybe we could all help her figure that out.[insert group hug graemlin ] Anna are you still listening to this thread? What can youtell us? Or shred for that matter?

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: i have gone out with people on outer space metting peopel on this site... where do you draw the line? I don't do stuff that is challenging for me with new partners unless they come highly recommended from people I trust. That's it. That's the line for me. I also try to see what's going on when they are setting anchors and stuff, before I trust my life to them. If you have somne experience you can often pick up the deadly gumbies pretty quick. Not always though. So I wait to stick my neck out. Example - I would not climb Outer Space with a new partner. Period. I will put myself in the position of the most experienced though, and bring people up their first multi-pitch or something like that.

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: quote: Topic: What Kind Of Car Do Real Mountaineers/Climbers Have? one word...unimog... Mogaineering! Do you like the classic ones or the 2002?

quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: NO!!!!! Anna should not have asked for it... how can you asses someone else when they do not represent themselves acuratly???? That is maybe why some people are a little touchy about tis whole thing. Climbing partnerships are based on trust. We have to believe that the person who says the are OK to do something really is. Otherwise we're all going to have to carry around certification cards from the Mounties or something and that would sure suck! Shredmaximus: you did the right thing if you truly believed that anna knew what she was getting in to. Muffy says you were the most experienced climber in the group though, and sometimes that carries responsibility. It can be hard though to realize that you are "the one" that day, especially if someone is louder than you.

How many of you have actually met Anna? -not me How many of you have never made a mistake while climbing? -not me How many of you read the subject line "I've been humbled?" -I did Instead of telling Anna she shouldn't climb or that she is a danger to the rest of the climbing "community", maybe some helpful advice would be more germane. Climbing is elite, because it is dangerous, and sometimes difficult. How about helping a newbie along instead of blasting her for her attitude? I think she has probably learnt a lot from this near miss. I would never judge a climber on one incident. One of my buddies who is sometimes on this board came _very_ close to falling off the top of the apron here in Squish (about 7p). I would still rope up to that person. Rather than dismissing someone because of their attitude, I would ask what they learnt from their mistake, and see if that jived with my take on things. Anna might never lead again, or she might become the most solid trad climber in the world. I almost rapped off the end of a rope once many years ago. Does that mean none of you would climb with me? To me it just means that I am extra careful when rapping. I guess it is all in how you read things, as I do see some good points in almost everyones posts, but I think some of them could be a little less arrogant. Spray does nothing in this kind of forum. It does have its place though. Less judgement and more guidance could be useful. [ 11-02-2002, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: snoboy ]

quote: Originally posted by Tyrone Shoes: Anna, You just don't get it...you know what, forget it, disregard. Congradulations on your solo! Take care. I guess a bunch of other people don't either?