Buckaroo

Here's the technical report as a pdf Apparently the cable broke at the lower attachment point, and it has a plastic sheath that makes inspection difficult and concentrates bending at the joint. 3980.pdf

Good topic. I think maybe it relates to time. Many first ascentionists are full time climbers so can afford to take all the time it takes to find a route and climb it. Many others of us only have one good weekend a month (if that) and don't have time to mess around if we want to get things done. I've found even with the most beta that sometimes a complex climb is better the 2nd time around because you figure things out that aren't in the beta. Just a for instance, the Slesse crossover descent. If I hadn't done 1/2 of the crossover in reverse the weekend before it would have been a bushwack nightmare to do it straight up after the climb. With this new beta that wouldn't be necessary. Another for instance, Liberty Crack, no where does the beta tell you that you can easily retreat with a single 60M because the stations are fixed at 30M for the first half of the climb. So a lot of people end up hauling an extra rope for no good reason the first time they climb it. But it also holds true you'll never hone great routefinding skills by not trying stuff out for yourself. And slim details also may work as a filter to keep people away that maybe shouldn't be on something too dangerous/difficult anyway. Sort of like a scary approach just to get to the base of something. The worst thing about guide book beta is when it's wrong.

You need a single wall tent, how about the Black Diamond "One shot" at 2 lbs 5 oz. or the Lightsabre bivy at 1 lbs 9 oz. LINK LINK the Terra Nova looks nice though

That was a Faux News test to see how effective their propaganda machine was. I'm sure they conducted a survey right after the "faked moon landings" to see if the Fairweather types ate it up or not.

So I named one conspiracy theory 911, and you can't answer all the posts about the level of repug corruption, or the fact that the repugs are running the vote machines, because those are facts not theories. Do you deny that Reagan had more convictions than any other prez? Do you deny that Cunningham was convicted for the largest amount of bribes ever? You want Jamie Gorelick? She earned $26 MIL at Fannie Mae over a period of SIX years. Our current treasury secretary (imagine a fox hen-house scenario) is Paulson REPUBLICAN, he earned $38 MIL at Goldman Sachs in ONE year. And his "bailout" (corporate welfare) package benefits Sachs more than any other firm... imagine that. Sure I can name many corrupt dems, my point is I can name more repugs and to a greater degree. Like I said it's all a matter of degree. But not to people like you, oh no. To you the only thing that matters is the "R" after their name, if they have that they are A-OK. You state computer voting is wrong, you state party connected officials are wrong, but when faced with the fact your party does it worse, we don't hear from you again. I'll say straight up, get rid of all the crooked dems. I do not support crooked politicians unless, A- I have no other choice, and B- they are the lesser of two evils. You still haven't answered the question of your stance on the bailouts? It's up to $1.4 Trillion now. Maybe because it's your party of "fiscal responsibility" and "small government" (BIG LIES) that's doing the dirty deed? ROTFLMFAO!!!!!

NICE TR and PICS, most people don't even know about the macro setting My "were's the bear" pic is a little more obvious (south slopes of J-berg) [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/J-BERG-BEAR.JPG[/img]

Who ran Freddie and Fannie into the ground? Even as he and she took 90 million and 26 million dollar bonuses respectively? Who pressed for a gross relaxation of lending standards? Do some homework and let me know. You didn't answer the question, are you down with it? Is this what you represent? It is certainly what your party represents. Once again, I agree they are pretty much all corrupt. There's just a few dems and even fewer repugs that aren't. It's the degree of corruption, the repugs are more corrupt than the dems. The key banking degreg bills were by Gramm REPUBLICAN which I've already posted. Still waiting for your list of corrupt dems that equals or exceeds the list I've already posted of corrupt repugs. Actually still waiting for several replies from you, you seem to disappear when the going gets tough. The $700 BIL should bring the annual deficit to OVER $ONE TRILLION. How's that for the party of fiscal responsibility ehh Fairweather? Sort of looks like a big big lie to me.

LOL, you haven't engaged me yet. Ad-hominem isn't engagement...

A mountain in Alaska. The weather conditions under which I prefer to climb. seriously Fairweather are you down with all the mortgage ripoff? Does it please you we are going to "bail" the golden parachute boys out with borrowed taxpayer dollars? Do you hold up and stand for that? Do you really want stupid people as president? Do village idiots tickle your fancy?

and you my friend are with the 10% fringe kooks on that one

Fairweather. Did you know that about 90% of Americans think the JFK killing was not as the military/industrial/media complex insists to this day that it is? And thanks to the internet the 911 scam is coming around quicker than the JFK killing? More than 50% of New Yorkers suspect 911 is not as the government says it is. They were at ground zero, are they fringe kooks? Pretty much the same numbers in most of the developed world (outside of the US), are they fringe kooks? Patriots question 911 140+ Senior Military, Intelligence Service, Law Enforcement, and Government Officials 540+ Engineers and Architects 120+ Pilots and Aviation Professionals 300+ Professors Question 9/11 210+ 9/11 Survivors and Family Members 170+ Artists, Entertainers, and Media Professionals Are they ALL "fringe kooks" Fairweather?

Completely agreed. But things like the Rezko deal point to a candidate who might not be as different from the same 'ole as he tends to portray himself. Not that different from a guy who lied to the nation to bring us to war? Who spied on us illegally for most of his term? Who instituted a state sponsored program of kidnapping and torture? OK. I guess my different is really different from your different. Have to agree, their all corrupt to a certain degree, it's the amount of corruption you have to look at. Clearly the repugs are more corrupt. You can look at it from a number of different ways, like... largest number of people convicted of crimes in a prez admin... Reagan REPUBLICAN largest dollar amount of bribery conviction of a single congressperson. Duke Cunningham REPUBLICAN largest corrupt bankruptcy.... Enron REPUBLICAN largest number of congresspeople tied to a convicted lobbyist. Abrhamoff REPUBLICANS Largest mortgage fraud in country's history... Phil Gramm REPUBLICAN Republicans are also the biggest hypocrits. Like McCain REPUBLICAN after 20 some years of supporting deregulation and bush says he's going to change things. Does that mean he's going to change himself? Or like the Treasury Secretary Paulson? (REPUBLICAN) Now he's going to fix the mortgage mess, wait a minute, didn't he just come from Goldman Sachs making $38MIL in one year? Weren't they right in the thick of all this corruption? So now one of their board members is going to "fix" the mess? ROTFLMFAO!!!!! Fairweather, please make us a list of Dems who are as corrupt or worse and then we'll talk. Don't forget the only choice you get is the lesser of two evils. Don't choose wrong.

The Subprime Mess and Phil Gramm: An Experiment in Deregulation June 24, 2008 - 04:12 PM In 1933, a few years following the stock market crash, Congress passes the Glass-Steagall Act, in hopes that regulating banks will help prevent market instability, particularly amongst Wall Street banks. The purpose of the act is to separate commercial banks that focus on consumers from investment banks, which deal with speculative trading and mergers. The Glass-Steagall Act provided the proper oversight and entity separation that would prohibit banks and other financial companies from merging into giant trusts (conflict of interests)... In 1999, former Republican Senator Phil Gramm (who is, incidentally, Senator John McCain's economic adviser and cochairs his presidential campaign) set out to completely gut the Glass-Steagall Act, and did so successfully, replacing most of its components with the new Gramm-Leach-Bliley Act: allowing commercial banks, investment banks, and insurers to merge (which would have violated antitrust laws under Glass-Steagall). Sen. Gramm was the driving force behind the Gramm-Leach-Bliley Act, as he had received over $4.6 million from the FIRE sector (Finance, Insurance and Real Estate donations) over the previous decade, and once the Act passed, an influx of "megamergers" took place among banks and insurance and securities companies.... Shortly after George W. Bush was elected president, Congress and President Clinton were trying to pass a $384 billion omnibus spending bill, and while the debates swirled around the passage of this bill, Senator Phil Gramm clandestinely slipped a 262-page amendment into the omnibus appropriations bill titled: Commodity Futures Modernization Act. It is likely that few senators read this bill, if any. The essence of the act was the deregulation of derivatives trading (financial instruments whose value changes in response to the changes in underlying variables; the main use of derivatives is to reduce risk for one party). The legislation contained a provision -- lobbied for by Enron, a major campaign contributor to Gramm -- that exempted energy trading from regulatory oversight. Basically, it gave way to the Enron debacle and ushered in the new era of unregulated securities. Interestingly enough, Gramm's wife, Wendy, had been part of the Enron board, and her salary and stock income brought in between $900,000 and $1.8 million to the Gramm household, prior to the passage of the Commodity Futures Modernization Act....... LINKY Gramm-Leach-Bliley Act The bills were introduced in the Senate by Phil Gramm (R-TX) and in the House of Representatives by James Leach (R-IA). The bills were passed by a 54-44 vote along party lines with Republican support in the Senate[1] and by a 343-86 vote in the House of Representatives[2]. Nov 4, 1999: After passing both the Senate and House the bill was moved to a conference committee to work out the differences between the Senate and House versions. Democrats agreed to support the bill only after Republicans agreed to strengthen provisions of the Community Reinvestment Act and address certain privacy concerns.[3] The final bipartisan bill resolving the differences was passed in the Senate 90-8-1 and in the House: 362-57-15. Without forcing a veto vote, this bipartisan, veto proof legislation was signed into law by President Bill Clinton on November 12, 1999.

"I'm not here This isn't happening." They can't beleive they were dupped so badly. "People are more easily taken by a big lie than by a small lie." Once they swallow the big lie, they have to follow the turd down the hole to beleive it is a turd. They've been duped by the corporate television. Madison Avenue has packaged and sold them shi* for shinola. When they can take a village idiot and turn him into presidential material now that's marketing. Orwell was prescient, he wasn't even that far off on the year. "China's democracy has advanced to the point where America was in the 1880's. Patent medicine, Robber Barons, and no regulations. America on the other hand, has regressed back to that point."

I called HP tech support for my printer. Got connected to India, the ladies accent was so obvious. For 5 minutes I tried to tell her the model number which consisted of 3 letters and 4 numbers. She never did get it right, I ended up telling her sorry and hung up and called back to get someone else.

Hurry hurry, close the door to the barn(that their own dereg opened), AFTER the $$ ONE TRILLION TAXPAYER DOLLAR horses have left.

Exclusive: Foreign banks may get help By MIKE ALLEN | 9/21/08 7:24 AM EDT In a change from the original proposal sent to Capitol Hill, foreign-based banks with big U.S. operations could qualify for the Treasury Department’s mortgage bailout, according to the fine print of an administration statement Saturday night. Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson confirmed the change on ABC's "This Week," telling George Stephanopoulos that coverage of foreign-based banks is "a distinction without a difference to the American people." "If a financial institution has business operations in the United States, hires people in the United States, if they are clogged with illiquid assets, they have the same impact on the American people as any other institution," Paulson said. "That's a distinction without a difference to the American people. The key here is protecting the system. ... We have a global financial system, and we are talking very aggressively with other countries around the world and encouraging them to do similar things, and I believe a number of them will. But, remember, this is about protecting the American people and protecting the taxpayers. ... The legislative outline that went to Capitol Hill at 1:30 a.m. Saturday had said that an eligible financial institution had to have “its headquarters in the United States.” That would exclude foreign-based institutions with big U.S. operations, such as Barclays, Credit Suisse, Deutsche Bank, HSBC, Royal Bank of Scotland and UBS. But a Treasury “Fact Sheet” released at 7:15 Saturday night sought to give the administration more flexibility, with an expanded definition that could include all of those banks: “Participating financial institutions must have significant operations in the U.S., unless the Secretary makes a determination, in consultation with the Chairman of the Federal Reserve, that broader eligibility is necessary to effectively stabilize financial markets.” LINKY ROTFLMFAO!!!! "protecting the American people and protecting the taxpayers" these guys have super tanker loads of lies and deceit. Here's my guess. They cooked up this mortgage scam to bilk new homeowners and taxpayers. It's gone a little overboard and starting to affect the entire market. The Fed has stepped in to bail out failing banks. Note here that the "Federal Reserve" is neither federal nor a reserve. It's made up of about 10 private banks 7 of which are offshore. So they have to make this bailout applicable to the offshore segment because they are having to try and save the market due to the unexpected blowup of this manufactured crisis.

""Treasury Seeks Asset-Buying Power Unchecked by Courts (Update2) By Alison Fitzgerald and John Brinsley Sept. 21 (Bloomberg) -- The Bush administration sought unchecked power from Congress to buy $700 billion in bad mortgage investments from financial companies in what would be an unprecedented government intrusion into the markets. Through his plan, Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson aims to avert a credit freeze that would bring the financial system and the world's largest economy to a standstill. The bill would prevent courts from reviewing actions taken under its authority. ``He's asking for a huge amount of power,'' said Nouriel Roubini, an economist at New York University. ``He's saying, `Trust me, I'm going to do it right if you give me absolute control.' This is not a monarchy.'' As congressional aides and officials scrutinized the proposal, the Treasury late yesterday clarified the types of assets it would purchase. Paulson would have authority to buy home loans, mortgage-backed securities, commercial mortgage- related assets and, after consultation with the Federal Reserve chairman, ``other assets, as deemed necessary to effectively stabilize financial markets,'' the Treasury said in a statement. The Treasury would also have discretion, after discussions with the Fed, to make non-U.S. financial institutions eligible under the program. The plan would raise the ceiling on the national debt and spend as much as the combined annual budgets of the Departments of Defense, Education and Health and Human Services. Paulson is asking for the power to hire asset managers and award contracts to private companies."" LINK In other words they want the power to dole out corporate welfare, even to foreign banks, after all 7 of the 10 private banks that own the "fed" are foreign. And they want this power with no court oversite. LOL JayB, you're tax dollars are going to bail out foreign banks. "award contracts to private companies" where have we heard that before LOL?, no bid probably to boot.

BWAHA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!! "The foxes today recommended the most significant regulatory overhaul in the hen house industry since they totally raped and pillaged the place just one bush generation ago"" The bush crime family can "fix" any savings and loan or mortgage industry scandals, after all they created them in the first place.

""The only unknown is how many billions of dollars in welfare payments that the government will shell out to homeowners in an effort to put an artificial floor under prices. "" Do you think it will be less or more than the $700 BIL corporate welfare being proposed to "bail out" the lenders that intentionally created this mess in the first place? And who pays the welfare for either the corps or the people? Just the worker or do the golden parachute boys kick in anything from their offshore tax havens? ""The decline in home prices will probably bring at least as many people into the market for homes as foreclosures eject from them, so I don't expect net home-ownership percentages to drop substantially over the long term. "" So is this just a POTA figure or you got some kind of study/survey to back this up? ""As an aside, there's no convincing data to support the notion anything inherently negative about renting, especially when you can do so for considerably less than it would cost to cover the mortgage, taxes, insurance, and upkeep on the same property."" Good luck saving enough to equal the value of a home you own outright after 20 or 30 years. What do you do invest those savings in the stock market? LOL! ""As far as the folks being foreclosed on are concerned, I don't think that many of them will be able to shoehorn their way into a 105% LTV neg-AM, I/O, pay-option-ARM for a property that's 8X their gross-income ever again in their lifetimes, which is a net positive for all concerned."" So in a round about way you're admitting it was a large negative to allow these types of loans. Now why don't you go on to admit who's responsible, who profited? Of course it's the crooks you elected into office. "" After home-prices mean-revert to the point where their rental yield covers the cost of owning them, they'll probably be able to qualify for a loan at 2-3X their gross income if they can muster the discipline necessary to save the 20% downpayment that any sane lender should require of them before approving the loan."" once again admitting these people were not sane IF they were trying to do the right thing. But they weren't, they were just new world record crooks. They're the experts, they knew the loans would fail when the ARM's went up, it worked just like it was planned. It doesn't bother you all the fees collected (stolen)? How much is the average mortgage in fees now, about $5G's? Pretty good scam. Collect the fees, transfer the loan, the first several years of payments are on the interest only, so no equity, even if there was some it would be lost on foreclosure. So fees, plus interest payments, then when foreclosed you get the home back to sell again. You might lose a bit on falling values, but then you get the "bail-out" on the taxpayers dime. It's a win win (GIGANTIC RIPOFF) for the suits no matter how you look at it. So JayB, concerning the $700 Billion. What amount of that is your personal share to pay back? Is it true that 100% of your federal withholding goes just to pay the interest on the national debt? In other words your federal income tax doesn't buy you anything, it's merely a transfer of wealth from the worker to the rich.

PALIN TO DUMP McCAIN FROM GOP TICKET VINCENNES, Indiana - (PTSD News) - Vice Presidential candidate Sarah Palin announced today that she has asked top GOP officials to fire John McCain as the GOP presidential candidate. "He has served his country well," Palin told a cheering overflow crowd in this southwestern Indiana city, "but he is starting to drag down my numbers, so he'll have to go. To make sure he's gone," she said, "I'll offer one hundred and fifty dollars to the first person to shoot him and bring me his cut off right hand -- just kidding. I don't need to see the hand, a faxed picture will do." "If there is anyone who can get officials to fire someone she doesn't like, it's Sarah," said an unnamed Republican spokesperson. "This will be a good move for the GOP," said Charles L. Sonderheim of the Heritage Foundation, "Palin has been packing them in, while McCain can't fill a McDonalds." Rules state that if the front runner is removed before the election, the vice presidential nominee become the presidential candidate. "We all know that God has anointed her to be president," said Reverend Ed Kalnin, Palin's former preacher, "so why delay the process, just like we shouldn't delay Armageddon." "It'll be great opportunity to be your President," Palin told the Indiana crowd, "because while it has been fun to see Russia from my house, I just can't wait to see Russia from the cockpit of a plane as something nuclear is being dropped." There has been no word on who would be tapped as Palin's vice presidential running mate. "We need to emphasize Sarah's qualifications to be president by picking someone who is a little less qualified than her, but charming, of course," said a top GOP spokesperson, "However this may take some time, although we have a lead on a pig with lipstick in Waterloo, Iowa that is dying to get off the farm." 20 September 2008 Satire by R J Shulman Visit him on MySpace

the first 2 pitches are exposed and probably death fall if unroped The final uppper slab scramble is not exposed and it's only about 10' tall, it has a big flat ledge below it, the worst that could happen would be a twisted ankle. The approach/descent gully has a lot of loose rock but it's not that steep. the most dangerous part of the trip is the 2 lane road all the way from the interstate.

The $85 Billion bailout of AIG just cost every individual American another $900 added to their share of the debt.

Cars may kill people but their not built primarily to kill people. Guns (these kinds anyway) are built only to kill people. So if you're going to post pics of Israeli women with guns you might as well post pics of the consequences. But I wonder percentage wise how many Israeli women have killed someone. Vaguely remember a study they did during WW2, only one percent of soldiers were natural born killers, the other 99% avoided or were devastated if they ever have to kill someone. May account for all the post truamatic stress disorder, even with all the vid game training we aren't natural born killers.

Here's the stats The world uses over 1.2 TRILLION plastic bags a year that's over 1 million bags a minute on average we use a plastic bag for 12 minutes before it's disposal it can then last in the environment for centuries. VIDEO