matt_warfield

Hope the wather holds up for you gents. I was there last Christmas break and nearly got shut out. Temps in the 40's and wind

A nice western themed costume attached

Well, when you've got those 5.13 and 5.14 climbers at places like Little Si that also go places like Smith and Chek, those grades tend to be consistent and therefore lower grades SHOULD be consistent as well. People ticking the big numbers are intensely interested and aware of the ratings.

Go try Stihl Fingers (12a) to test your theory. But not in the rain for that one.....

Well, maybe a couple of letter grades here and there.....and of course "Reptiles" as a 7/8. But age and injury force me to defend ratings in lieu of chestbeating. I just put on my "rating conversion" glasses when I visit stiff areas. My entries there would include Eldorado, Lumpy Ridge (beware 5.7-5.9 Kor classics), and Granite Mountain, Arizona, where many a Yosemite hardman has been bouted!

Ya sure, what's a number grade or two among friends. But I think it's amusing that "good" climbers often downgrade easier climbs and less often harder ones. No way Whore of Babylon is 14b! It's a hike!

Note RuMR's liberal downrating in his list from Little Si. I think he wants to hijack this thread into a ratings debate.

Nevermind at E-38 can handle some rain, but seepage eventually happens. World Wall I at E-32 has some big overhangs with protection from elements but you gotta climb hard for the most part except for Reptiles and Amphetamines (5.9) which stays quite dry. But it appears summer is over.

Way to take advantage of the great weather by logging some alpine mileage and bagging a couple of great routes. Definitely a full value weekend. Out of curiosity, why did you pass up the short but stout handcrack leading to the summit from the notch on the S. Face?

The first time somebody ignores a nagging injury and it turns into a chronic condition and he/she has to take months off of an activity to recover, they generally become less stubborn about attending to such things initially. Unfortunately, sometimes a person needs to experience such a situation to actually believe that it can happen to them and that there are far worse things than a few weeks of rest and healing.

BTW, THIS Granite Pk is Montana's highest..... I've done both approaches and it depends on what you like. Froze to Death Plateau is easier walking but is longer and involves elevation loss to descend from the plateau. The creek approach involves some off-trail work and talus but no elevation loss. But lots of people do it so much has a climber's trail. I assume you're going to climb it, so have fun.

On an old pickup truck back in the "do it" slogan phase: Bow hunters go deeper in the bush, shoot more often, and eat what they shoot.

Joshua Tree!!!!!!

Layton, I think your estimates of a big day's expenditure are fine. The only accurate way to assess it, as assmonkey discussed, is to measure heart rate or respirations. Moving around the mountains isn't like the controlled conditions of scientific tests. Your body is the best instrument at counting calories but it won't tell you the number, it just gives the energy (or not). There are short term and long term reserves that get trained endurance athletes through the day. And even a low fat athlete can give some up since 1% of a 150 lb. person is 5,000 calories. Sedentary bodies know where to put it. Endurance athletes' bodies know where to get it and when.

And don't forget Granite Mountain near Prescott- a fantastic traditional area at 7,000' and a good Spring/Fall location. There's a bunch of other stuff near Prescott also (Dells, Thumb Butte, etc.)

Tumwater Canyon is open (e.g. Castle Rock). Icicle is closed beyond Snow Creek TH. Enchantments are open to Aasgard. There was a nice shower yesterday that should help them put the fire on the run.

Any updates on fire status and Icicle Creek access?

You just passed over 100's of routes and lots in your target zone.... but sure Chek, Smith, Skaha, etc. will scratch your itch as well.

Good work! It's refreshing to know how much can be done in a weekend with the proper logistics, fitness, ability, and motivation. Great pics of both this and Clean Break.

A severe sprain will take as long to heal as a break and feel just about as bad. Good luck with the healing period.

A variation on chelle's: You only live life once....but that's enough if you do it right. Ships are safe in the harbor, but that's not what they are made for. And then there's Pearl Jam: I know that I was born and I know that I'll die, but in between it's mine.

For the squeeze, just hang your pack from your harness with a tether. But as has been suggested, take an axe for the approach but don't take it on the climb. Go light and scramble/carry around at the base to your left gear. If you don't like chimneys, do the Beckey S. Face route instead as profiled in Kearney's guide. Either wasy, it's a great face that wants you to climb it.

Normally, you don't descend the W. Ridge but rappel the N. side of Prusik in 4-5 single rope rappels. There will be some snow around the Enchantment basin but I doubt if crampons would be necessary. You may get a response from somebody who has been in there recently and can report on the snow pack. Have fun- it's a great peak!

You may want to select your destination on the basis of weather conditions rather than other factors as J. Tree will likely be warmer than Tahquitz/Suicide. Either way, have fun and expect old school ratings.

If you decide on a full service American company, check out Colorado Mountain School: www.cmschool.com They are a premium service with very experienced and accredited guides and offer a full complement of S. American expeditions in addition to alpine and rock climbing in Colorado and beyond. Have fun planning the trip!