matt_warfield

I stand corrected and agree that the facts get obscured through the media and some mouths. What is the grade of Mikey's variation and has Brooke's direct free of the Lip ever been repeated?

There would be riots in Seattle if Mt. Si was affected.

Blue October, Hate Me Metalica, Enter the Sandman ACDC, Hells Bells Beatles, Hey Jude (just kidding but I just met a fisherman who met McCartney fishing in Ketchican AK and he played a 30 second portion of this song in a local bar)

I'm with Dane on this one. One car, same TH start and finish. Go as far as you can on the approach day past Ingalls Lake and if you are fast you should be able to climb and descend the next day. For a leisurely trip and great views, bivy on the summit. The descent down Cascadian sucks but goes quickly and the exit via Longs Pass will test your legs a bit but goes quickly as well. If it is your first time on the ridge and you take the Gendarme exit (as you should), expect a little routefinding above. Megaclassic climb- have fun.

You must be talking about the Safe because RuMR has it that you have been to Little Si and maybe even clipped a few bolts there after of course tagging the summit up the trail.

pdk is right- lots of info on this site or check a guidebook. Keep in mind that early season is going to involve snow and ice on the ridge.

how many times does a concert pianist rehearse a piece, focusing on certain movements, and even portions of a piece before actually performing it? Or football players, baseball players, basketball players, soccer players, etc. Rehearsal in climbing is called practice in other sports. And rearding martial arts, consider trying to break your first board in front of the sensei without ever trying it outside the dojo first.

My mantra has always been "What would Bachar (RIP) do?" Total control using precise strength and balance- it was awesome to watch John fucking Bachar solo.

IMO Liberty Crack using the Lip free version done by Sandahl should not be on the list. The protection was contrived as previously noted and the pitch is out of character with the rest of the climb which is fantastic. Include the free version from the right and then it is numero uno!

The thread name is misspelled. Yankmes is more appropriate.

The Ascent of Rum Doodle is a must read as a parody of mountaineering. It is hilarious. Peter Croft's select guide to Sierra classics is a great read even if you don't do any of the routes. I can't remember the name of the book but John Long had a series of short stories, one of which involved jumping in a water delivery pipe in S. America and racing underground at high velocity before getting dumped into a lagoon, luckily with some clothes still on board. Ever since then I have used the phrase "in the pipe" to portray commitment with only one way out but most don't get it.

Just remember that Skinner had to deal with that grease in the crack.

Squamish if the weather is good. Consider d: Boulder and Estes Park CO. A lifetime of climbing. Never been to the Red so I can't comment. Bishop is lots of fun but in the gorge the climbing is a bit derivative (vertical face climbing) and bouldering at the Buttermilks will be boring for the wee ones.

Or Astroman and the Rostrum in one day.

Pat Ament, John Long, and John Gill have done some great writing... and climbing. I haven't read House's book but anybody who thinks it is boring should go climbing with him and experience terror first hand.

Let's just say pro climbers make a bunch less than other pro sports athletes. And it is one of the rare sports where the experts are accessible. I remember standing next to Brittany Griffith at Smith talking about preferences for gin and tonic and next to Bachar at Owens talking about soloing. Whether they make money on climbing or not the community is close. Try approaching Tiger or Alex Rodriguez or Kobe Bryant. Good luck.

I can't think of any overhanging rappels at Peshastin as it tends to be quite slabby. Monkey Face at Smith has a completely overhanging rappel but involves aid and would not be suitable for someone with exposure issues.

yellow ropes are aid. Good job guys, I've always wanted to do that route. Did sky bring skis for the descent?

Dave Bale is correct. A really good guy. Another interesting event was meeting Richard Cilley in the Snow Creek parking lot. I bought a chalk bag from him and visited for a bit. He was being harassed by The Man for two reasons: parking overnight when many cars were being broken into and for having a mannequin in the shotgun seat ostensibly to use carpool lanes which are not very prevalent in Leavenworth. But The Man is not about logic or creativity of the human experience most of the time.

Flail? Flail is funny but not appropriate for free solo artists His last name starts with B.

The free solo guy who's name rhymes with whale said he only climbs on granite- no limestone, no Vantage, no Little Si, just granite. Fortunately there is lots of granite around. Especially since Index Lower Town Wall is apparently saved.

Back on topic but for the record, one of the free solo artists on Classic has a last name that rhymes with whale. Those familiar with L-town climbing will know of whom I speek.

No bolts, just a rope hanging from the next anchors 30 ft. or so away on vertical rock. It was a big rope for ease of grasping but also a big job after the sword pitch got you worked and a fall puts you right on the lower anchors and it happened a few times. In my opinion it was good decision making to make it a bolt ladder since there already was one before the pillar and the rope was aid anyway unless you climb 5.13 with the free variation. Make it safe, don't worry about a little AO and enjoy stellar rock the rest of the time.

Sail Flake is short but I was worked by then. I did enjoy the tree start though. But it has been a few years now and marc has a much better handle on things than I do. But marc, did you do the route when the rope was up above the sword or are you just a youngster?

We changed subjects temporarily.