matt_warfield

you and rob both, seemingly. I only trust .gov (kidding) and MtnGuide because he has done some serious research into this. But I'm still interested in how the numbers add up with bubonic plague and malaria.

Squamish and Washington west side rock climbing areas are notorious for having bad weather and lots of wet on rock climbs this time of year as you should know being from Portland, unless you get really lucky. Think about winter conditions and alpine. I'm sure you will get more opinions.

If it was Let's Make a Deal let's say he chose door #1 on lady #2 and ended up with a zonk.

True true. But to be a military leader you have to keep your pants zipped, unless of course you are in the Secret Service or are named Clinton. If you want free rein, it is best to be under the radar.

Wow! The title and subtitle of that bio is a Double Entendre if I've ever seen one. And his wife Holly ran something called the "Office of Service Member Affairs". SNL had a bit where they said that the prologue was "Just the Tip" which means the prequel must have been "Second Base"

If you are a good climber, you prolly are not asking the original question. :)

Blanchard has a rich legacy. Climbing is one of the few sports where you can rub elbows with the best for pretty cheap.

Also, on a bad weather day, check this site's TRs as lots of people from all over the NW have enjoyed the boulders, crags, and alpine destinations near Leavenworth and reported on this site. And new residents need to do at least one route in Lederhosen to fit in.

Bill, I think you got my intent wrong or I just didn't explain it well. My comment was intended to state that one of the many very experienced climbers on this site can post right along with some who are not experienced or who post in jest. I apologize to anyone who felt insulted by my remarks.

I respect that a lot as you know. Being certified to blow steam on the internet is a much easier job.

pretty strong statement. can you give an example of this cordelette anchor failure? You can look it up in Rock and Ice and ANAM and will gadd's blog just as easy as I can. Well I respect you and Will Gadd and Rock and Ice but even more I respect AMGA certified guides who know their shit better than 98% of the people on this site.

I understand. Being a human being can be a bitch. I'm one too.

And in 7199 posts, I am sure you always have been the picture of knowledge, experience, composure, and good judgment.

I agree with Gene. Problems with equalization are mostly due to errors in application rather than the medium (web, rope, cordalettes, etc.) or the anchor itself (bolts or slung spikes or gear or trees or .......) Cordalettes are strong, knot well, and are completely capable of equalizing anchors. kurthicks????

Thanks. Fine with me. Different strokes for different folks.

No offense, but what is specific about Portland? In my experience experienced climbers are worldwide and small cams also work worldwide. Listen to advice here regardless of where they are from.

So the anthill exists there as well as on Everest. And anthills kill sometimes.

Doing an ascent of Supercrack at Indian Creek with hexes would be a challenge for most. But I certainly agree that lots of the time a passive piece is much easier to place than a cam, two cordalettes or not.

Ho man, dude... Nothing like doing a parallel splitter with only hexes and stoppers or regular hardware nuts from the old days. Some nuts have been around for a long time and some just in the modern era. One way or the other they usually hang below your waist or in your girlfriend or wife's handbag.

Yep, top of OS. Only thing missing is a goat at the top.

Cordalettes equalize effectively when used correctly and with good pieces as anchors. There is nothing a sling can do that a coradalette can't at an anchor. At the risk of decalaring myself as a dinosaur, we are so safe compared to the days of 1" webbing, swami belts and pitons or primitive nuts and no kevlar, it is ridiculous.

It takes a B.S. or less to make reliable climbing gear and inform the public about its use. It takes an experienced climber or guide to tell you how to use the gear. This knowledge and experience is not taught in college. Most Ph.D. climbers are just out climbing.

I have not read all the posts to this thread but can't help but join the fray. Whether we like it or not, it is going to be a long fight for a third party of any kind to be legitimate in politics in the US. If we were all locked in isolation and forced to write down our principles, we would end up with a vast number of parties. But we have two with factions. Political change happens at the speed of a glacier. In Montana the Libertarian candidate who opposed Senate candidate Rehberg pointed and fired a rifle in an ad at the camera which simulated Homeland Security surveillance. That technique will not get you elected. The two party system is not ideal but it is reality. I spent years supporting Ralph Nader and Ross Perot. You have to be relentless, persistent, and have an immense amount of patience to change the situation. In the meantime, regardless of your political angle, NOTHING IS GETTING DONE in Congress. We have to solve problems one step at a time and the first step is to take care of immediate business and prove that we as a country can do so. China and Iran and Syria and Lybia and etc. are waiting to find out how much floundering we can do. Also in the meantime I have to agree with Joseph that, right or wrong, the Libertarians siphon votes from the right wing which helps the liberal cause. It is the absolute definition of ironic.

Thanks for the pic. The snow bridge is easily seen on the left side of the peak. It is the location where the inexperienced get "alpinitis". The Absaroka/Beartooth Wilderness is a wonderful place. Couple Granite Peak with Mt. Cowan and it is the best time you can have on 4th class to great summits. And I can't help being smitten with women despite the possibility of being smited.

This is a tale with not much climbing content. Dates are in the 70's. Granite Peak is the highest in Montana and had always been a goal of mine. While not 5.15 or rated R it has its challenges. It is a long ways in, has a snow bridge and the usual routefinding difficulties associated with the alpine. First attempt: A friend and I head in determined to make our way without a stove (all cold food in a bag) or a tent (sleeping bags and tarp only) on appropriately named Froze to Death Plateau. Trying to be green and be young and stupid all at the same time. It's not hard. As long as you are young. We turned back. I returned with my fiance (first of my three ex-wives) and a bible thumper who insisted that he did not appreciate me sharing a tent with a woman I was not married to yet and also insisted that Granite Peak was only a few thousand years old due to creation, despite carbon dating and other scientific nonsense. A great partnership was born. Desite our differences and the fact he couldn't belay worth crap we made it to the summit and then accompanied the oldest man yet to summit Grannite (since surpassed) down the "easy" way (4th class) to safety. Then I went to bed with my girlfriend and God didn't smite me. Yet.