matt_warfield

Okay he is there. Error in judgment. Free soloing Phoenix and the Nose speed record and etc. hadn't been fully digested before my post.

Ain't tuff (that is Smith). It's sandstone in Zion. And TeleRoss does not screw around climbing or skiing. Great TR and the pics help our vicarious pleasure.

Mine are with him too. But not backclipping is extremely important. I have witnessed the mysterious opening of the biner when the rope slaps it when the gate is pointed toward the direction of travel. Combined with a piece failing from above means a lot of fall. Solutions (although this is all over in books or by professionals): - lots of pro most importantly near the ground and placed well - always consider the consequences of one piece ripping - lots of attention to having the back of the biner toward the direction of travel - draws or slings of length to make sure the pro is not altered - make sure your hardware and software is in good shape - belayer gives some slack but not too much, has the right device and knows EXACTLY how to use it and NEVER take their mind off the game. - foremost, not falling is the best option. Fitness and planning for your route are good starts.

You have to park back up or down the road but when the Man wants money they will fight the loopholes even if the cost of enforcement exceeds the fines they gather. It is the unique logic of the government.

One thing about this site is that some posts and TRs suck and many are excellent. But the site wouldn't exist if nobody shared. Your TR is excellent and the Bugs are awesome.

We all appreciate first hand knowledge. Climbers will talk about and analyze accidents for all eternity whether it is here or at the crag or at a bar or in Climbing Magazine or elsewhere and are prone to often speculate based on experience and conjecture.

One lesson for Vantage trad: place good pro and place it often. It is fragile rock and you are never that far off the ground when you consider the consequences of pulling a piece or two. And years ago there was a serious accident where a belayer with a helmet was hit by loose rock right under the helmet line. We can do our best but we can't eliminate all danger unless we stay home and of course never drive.

Especially the poop and pee anecdotes.

Well shit dude, nice offering a route that attracts Yosemite's finest. I guess Caldwell and Siegrist are there to do the Dawn Wall project. Caldwell is a legend, Honnold is close, and let's not forget Siegrist did the FA of Washington's hardest sport climb at Little Si. A proud bunch and I am sure they all respect Mikey.

I second that motion. The only joy will be attaining the summit.

I have participated in similar events at Little Si, Vantage, and Smith and thoroughly support climbers taking care of their favorite areas. Didn't kill any trees at any of these areas but hauled gravel in a pack, moved a lot or rock around, and did a bunch of shoveling. But Washington is unique as we all know and usually involves lots of biomass.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you knuckleheads that get on ever changing mediums with sharp instruments on your feet and in your hands. But Hyalite had those fires. And I grew up in the area and some of the ranches have had springs dry up this year. I would be wary of an unusual ice season, especially early.

Dirtbagging to support climbing is a special art. One of the Yosemite originals had a great quote "at either end of the social spectrum there is a leisure class". Sit on millions until you croak or take every dollar you have and go climbing.

I took about a 15 footer off the crux of Edge of Space in the rain. I went flying towards the edge sure that I was going to fly over it and the rope was going to cut on the edge and I would fall 300 ft to the base. I screamed like a girl. I was fine, totally safe falls on EoS. Lots of folks could get up this one no problem. That's good to know. While OS gets 3 ascents every half day or so EoS gets 3 a year.

I don't climb ice but am in the Bozeman area at present and am suprised that the fires and drought aren't going to affect ice formation.

I prayed for a beer stronger than Budweiser and PBR and here we have Stone IPA Ruination (7.7% alcohol and 100 International Bitterness Units) for the rich and Stone Reserve (8.1% alcohol) for the poor. Somebody answered my prayers.

I also suffered from soccer as well. Nothing like getting chopped from behind or the side and making all of those jerky movements to put stress on the joints. Plus two of the advantages we have on the animal world are our brains and our opposable thumbs. In soccer we beat on the former by heading the ball and we don't use the latter hardly at all. Ironic that it is the most popular human sport.

Let's not forget doping included Lasse Viren in the 70's, FloJo in the 80's, Barry Bonds in the 90's, and Lance in the 2000's. Climbers are smarter because their doping is Red Bull, coffee, beer, and the occasional chronic. And of course climbing.

Well he got my attention with City Park and I have been paying attention ever since.

Mikey strikes again in Yosemite and represents the NW very well. Check climbing.com or rockandice.com. You are all smart enough to do it without a link.

That's not what the Catholics think. However mostly those sinning pastors are having theirs sucked by children. And I agree with Bob. We can scientifically prove so many things. Otherwise, here is my approach: -If there was one valid religion, why are so many geographically and ethnicly segregated. -Why do so many religions want to impose their ideas on others. -What is the matter with Native Americans worshiping the sun, moon, and terrain or Buddhists living in monasteries. Neither bother anyone. -What God would allow cancer and terrorism and criminals and etc. -The Bible is just a book.

Every day I thank God that I am an atheist. And God bless the big bang theory and carbon dating and much more science and physics disproving the seven days of creation by Him.

Chestbeat: The climber pictured on the N. Ridge of Stuart in Nelson's Vol. 1 is me. Non Chestbeat: I have not and never will do Edge of Space. I have admired it from Outer Space many times and congrats to those that have climbed it. I always imagined falling off the Edge (literally) and having an epic. Somewhere in the mid 10 range or where there are big runouts slab ceases to amuse me.

To up the ante on the dog experience, the father was the Bassett Hound and the mother was the St. Bernard. Definitely 5.13 mating.

Nah. Just stubborn. I like that it's your namesake climb! There's a route called Tan Snaffle? You should back off because she is not yet a cougar.