JoshK

yo, I know a few of y'all's have climbed this. this time of year would you imagine we'd run across rock hard ol' glacier ice or more forgiving stuff? I'm wearing a pair of non full shank boots and the only strap on crampons I've got are aluminum. I'm wondering if I'm going to be hating life with aluminum crampons on that stuff. I could probably find a pair of steel poons to borrow otherwise.

Yeah, I have to ask, if you live in bellingham, which is like 1 hour from awesome north cascades peaks, wtf would you go all the way to central oregon to climb broken choss for?

depends on your comfort level, I think only you can answer that. chances are the snow will get baked soft on saturday, but you may encounter icy spots. depending on your abilities you may or may not want crampons and axe.

Ahh, thanks for the clarification. In any event, even for tape casettes and the other stuff that RIAA tax is flat out illegal.

leave the beacons. any slide of spring snow large enough to cover you will kill you on impact anyway.

yup, i'm pretty sure it's CDs as well. I *know* it's tape. Somehow they convinced (aka paid) our government enought to convince them that since these mediums *could* be used to store music, that they should get a cut of it. assholes.

to answer your other question I can't imagine *not* being able to find running water there. This is the time of year when pretty much anything that *does* flow is flowing.

Yeah...slides...like sliding up and down and all over her.

Hopefully you all realize that for every single blank tape, CD, etc. you purchase, the RIAA also gets a cut. Unbelievable but true...they are fucking nazis and need to be destroyed.

From the description they should have done us all a favor and finished the bastard off.

Buehler? Buehler? Man, if i didn't have plans already I'd probably go along. i'd really like to get in to the olympics more, esp. the lesser explored parts.

Hell, I'd argue that aside from the Cascades, the Olympics are the most "real" mountains in the lower 48. They are still significantly more rugged, high-relief, glaciated and willing to nail you with shitty weather than the rockies or any other range in the 48.

Have a good climb. the bivy sites for frostbite ridge are very nice. it should be a great bivy on friday night. saturday will be an awesome day to summit considering the weather. I can't remember if it was metnioned on this thread by myself or others, and I'm too lazy to look, but bring tennis shoes for the first 5 miles of trail and leave them at kennedy hot springs. all the routes from that site of the mountain approach/deproach through that point and having tennis shoes makes that 5 miles on trail a hellavu lot more pleasent, especially on the way out. Also, don't expect much from the hot springs...they aren't as nice as they sound.

Just like everywhere else, they say it can be a problem. sorry, i just couldn't resist responding to the rare and sought after triple post.

FWIW, I've actually heard that the routes there aren't all that bad and you can even climb some of the cliffs in the rain.

Wow!, what an honor, maybe I'll even show up for that.

And also to add on to this animation showing the annexing of canada in 2012!! http://www.ac.wwu.edu/~stephan/48states.html

I agree that the artists should be compensated, but the way tyhe RIAA is going about this is ridiculous. If somebody came up with a system to get the artists paid for their work and the record companies cut out of the deal altogether, adn the RIAA disbanded, they'd make a lot of friends.

Don't worry, the day will come when Canada will help increase the U.S. state total well into the 60s.

This quote is particularly telling: Country songwriter Hugh Prestwood, who has worked with performers such as Randy Travis, Trisha Yearwood and Jimmy Buffett, likened the RIAA's effort to a roadside police officer on a busy highway. "It doesn't take too many tickets to get everybody to obey the speed limit," Prestwood said. Umm...dipshit...how many people do you know that speed? Oh that's right...everybody. You can't patrol every single street and every time, so people will still take their chances and for the same reason the cops can't afford to patrol every street the record nazis can't afford to sue everybody.

The best response to this is for *everybody* to offer as much music as possible. Tehy can't afford the legal fees to sue everybody.

lee, I knew you'd be sold after you saw mine. Definiely the ultimate "ace in the hole" (as Ivan once said) on that long deproach from a death march. caveman, who's player is that?

I never drink caffine in my regular life, but I do often bring Gu, which has caffine on climbs. I generally get a good result from it since my body is not used to caffine. I just make sure to keep good and hydrated with or without caffine, and manage to not have problems. -josh

stebbi, I was up near black peak a couple of weekends ago. the trail up to heather pass (the pass leading to lewis and wing lakes) was almost entirely snow free. It's a very pleasent hike of probably less than 3 miles. from there to black peak itself is snow, but even from the pass, you get great views of black peak.

This is quite possibly the worst sentence in the history of the board I take pride in my ability to craft poorly worded sentences! Err...ok, I'll go back and clarify that.