JoshK

In June, when we did it, it was very trivial, but I could see where some large crevasses may open up. The col between the Dana and Dome glaciers was very flat, so I can't imagine a large moat developing there, but who knows. I also read Beckey's description but gambled on my memory of the col being correct from when I was on Dome peak a few weeks early. Indeed it was and I can't imagine an easier way to get to the summit of Dome or the Dome glacier from the Dana. -josh

Doh, sorry, meant Right, not left. DFA, shut up and go wank on some plastic.

Yes, we climbed the "left part" of the dana glacier. It is an easy traverse below the rock rib you mention to gain that section of the glacier. At least it was when ew did it on skis nearly a month ago now, but it wasn't steep, so I can't imagine it getting much more difficult.

Can anybody confirm/deny that the peak to the left center is Stiletto peak or not? This pic was taken from just below Wing Lakes on the Black Peak approach. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1331&papass=&sort=1&thecat=509 thanks! -josh

That's a good story. Most guys dry-tool in the shower. hahahah I guess that would make lotion aid.

I'm with flebby. I think this is a BS story. What do I know tho...

Nice job, Lee. Yeah, that wet icy section sucks ass. It is no fun in rock shoes. I thought that was the crux of the whole climb when I did it.

leejams IS the man. What were you up to in there, Lee, that has garnered you the undying admiration of Erik??

which one? The flame with the pink bike.

I'm proud to say (or maybe I should be ashamed?) that I have made my first daring alpine ascent of the formidable tooth. After a hangover induced late wakeup and a few beer shits, we arrived at the TH at 11:45. Many tourons were passed on the approach. I forgot just how busy that snow lake trail is. I think it took about 1 1/2 hours to reach the base of the climb. There were 3 other parties of 2 on the route, and another party of 2 waiting at the base to climb. The 3 groups on the route were mounties, and despite all the badmouthing of them on this board, they were quite friendly. We asked if we could solo by and they had no problem with this. I think it took about 15 minutes tops to reach the summit from the little notch where you start. From there we rapped off and headed back home. I must say, from everything I had heard about das toof, I was pleasently surprised. the rock was very solid and the moves were fun. It made a great solo objective for a half day to get some excercise and get on a little rock.

Sitkum is uniquely long and boring! It puts even other slogs to shame. I can think of worse the coleman-demming comes to mind. I even hate descending it. The C/D at least has some crevasse dangers to keep your mind awake. The sitkum is pretty much a giant snowpatch.

Sitkum is uniquely long and boring! It puts even other slogs to shame.

RobBob, your logic is based upon about 5% of the facts. If you made the same comparison against fossil fuels, you would realize that it's way more subsidized than biodesiel is. The fact remains, however, that buring biodesiel is a lot better for the planet than burning fossil fuels. I agre that it's stupid to subsidize the grain farmers to this extent, but mouthing off that buidesiel has no merits is silly.

Hey Wayne, check out my TR in this forum. We looked at traversing the ridges proper (this was my original plan) but the travel looked quite time consuming and possibly difficult in places. We had no gear whatsoever with us, aside from a light axe and crampons each, so we didn't want to bite off more than we could chew on the ridges and have to backtrack to get back off. In any event, I am almost positive dropping down and traversing is much faster than following the ridge proper could be. You actually don't need to drop all that much. We climbed 7FJ right from the 7,700 col and only needed to drop to about 7400 if I recall to traverse across the slopes from 7FJ to Maude. I think climbing Maude directly from the 7FJ/Maude col would be quite fun. From a distance, however, it looked like it would be at least low/mid 5th class and the rock looked somewhat crappy. With it being later in the day and us quite tired from many hour without sleep, we decided the last thing we wanted to do was start climbing an unknown route on possibly difficult and loose terrain.

Tim, in my opinion, skip spire point and instead of ascending to spire col from white rock lacks, ascend the dana glacier to the dana/dome col. This brings you out right near the summit of dome peak.

After much talk about it, I got around to beating myself up on this one yesterday. Skisports came along for the beating. We decided to start with Fernow, figuring it was the most out of the way and difficult. Thanks to my routefinding (or lack thereof) we ended up climbing up towards the summit too early and took a gully involving a few low 5th class moves. It also brought us up on the wrong side of the summit structure, requiring us to traverse a ridge for a few hundred feet to the summit. This mistake ended up being the most fun climbing of the whole trip. After Fernow we made our way back to the 7,700 foot saddle and went up Seven Fingered Jack. Not much to say about this one, it's a giant pile of skree from the leory basin side. We thought briefly about trying to stay as high up on 7FJ as possible and then ascend Maude from the 7FJ/Maude col, but the climbing looked like it would be too difficult that way so we dropped down and traversed. The climb of Maude is basically done from any number of west facing gullies. They all generally end a few hundred feet below the summit which is reached by walking up grassy slopes. We descended Maude by the standard south route, dropping into another lovely skree gully at 8000 feet which takes you down to another basin above leroy basin proper. A nice trail leads back to the middle leroy basin and the main trail. Summary: In all honesty, this was a lot easier of a day than expected. I was prepared for a full on death march, but it really wasn't. We went at a liesurly pace, took pictures, breaks, etc. and enjoyed the area. This morning, I can certainly feel the aftermath, however. Note 1: Leroy basin and this area of the entiats is reeeeallly beautiful. What a great place. Note 2: I have never seen nicer "unmaintained" trails. I had never been up to leroy basin and when I saw the sign stating "unmaintained trail" at the turnoff I was expecting brush. Instead we found a trail nicer than many maintained ones.

skisports & I did the 3x9,000s yesterday. Figured it would be good to burn a crapload of calories as a prequel to consuming large amounts of beer and burgers today. It actually wasn't all that hard. I'm pretty sure your logan trip was more of an asskicker, wayne. It's probably about 10k vertical, and near 20 miles, so you certainly feel it, but the biggest thing was simply the lack of sleep from the night before.

Hey Mike, weird question, but do you know if that grill is still up at schurman?

I've had a great time going really fast, and I've had a great time just relaxing in a meadow all day. It's all much better than work!

I think it is touted by the liberal elites (especially the media) as proof that America would be better off as a socialist/collectivist nation instead of the freedom-loving, individualist country we have now (granted this idealogue is fading). They say, "see, they don't like us, we should change to be like them. Give up your freedoms." GregW, You're right about that! But how far would you be willing to go to prevent it? You obviously understand the deal, but do your kids? Will they be willing to stand up for individual liberty someday? Creeping socialism. I'm glad we have a pres. that is (mostly) willing to stand up and say "no". No to Kyoto. No to the international "court". No to the ideals of the left. No to Kyoto? Give me a fucking break. It's yet another pathetic example of the shit GWB and his chronies will do to the environment in order to appease his corporate buddies.

Yet the morons in the white house will continue to ignore these signs.

Attitude, seriously man...get a life.

Do you guys realize something like 40% of the new posts to this thread are now being made by MtnGoat? That's a pretty good indicator that the thread has gone down the toilet and isn't worth your time anymore.