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Everything posted by RuMR
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They all trained on sport….thats how to get strong for crack…..you said they STARTED as hard core sport climbers. Tommy was taught to climb by his father who by all trades was and is a trad climber. Tommy was taught to climb gear……then turned to sport years later. i love it...you are making my point for me! dumbarse...sheesh, this is what i was saying to sherri at the very beginning...
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nobody starts as hardcore anything, tool...tommy's dad was the one that got him into it and he began climbing before sport was widely accepted. He floursihed in climbing after sport though... With sonnie, he sport climbed much more in the beginning than trad... another example is beth rodden...yet another is katie brown...face it, you can crank on face, then you can crank on cracks... They didn't start sending hard trad UNTIL AFTER sending hard sport. That is where they learned to climb...man, sometimes you strike me as such a dumbass...
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Inter view with TC and BR: Q: Your all-around abilities on rock amaze people. One month you send the hardest sport routes around and the next month you tick off a 30-pitch big-wall free climb. How do you switch back and forth so seemingly effortlessly between the unique demands of these types of climbing? A:The training we do is very similar for each type of climbing. If we have been training for sport climbing, we can usually adjust very quickly to El Cap routes. It doesn’t necessarily work the other way around.[/b] We have the knowledge of logistics and how to big wall free climb, so sport climbing training just prepares us for the physical part. We might add some more cardio into our day if we feel it is necessary.
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craggin on the base of el cap is good... i'd head to tuolome..
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fuck...after th NA wall, tommy even credited sport for his success... and explain yuji!! the fokker damn near onsighted the salathe and holds a slightly ok time up the nose!!! he was a world cup competitor for a loooooooong time... and explain der huber bros... and what about our very own mr. sjong???
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yeah...i do... and tommy trained exclusively for sport for years...so did sonnie
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Huber quote from when he came to the US/Yos first time: (paraphrasing here, i'm sure Dru can find the actual quote) "I just need to learn how to get my hand in there as i have power to spare...power is no issue"
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Not true at all……in order to place the pro….you have to take a hand of for an extended period of time….which requires exceptional foot work. Pasting you foot against a smearing face hold is so different than jamming the tip of your toe in a crack that is the size of a penny. This is the troll part…..right? If jams are so simple then why does Joseph Healey still not like to do them after 30 years of climbing? And he is a smart guy. JH has never sport climbed. More finger power? Not so sure about that. Would it be accurate to say that crack climbers have stronger wrists because of all the twisting you do when jamming? If crack climbing is sooooo easy then why is it that the majority of climbers only climb sport? Because it’s a lot easier bro……how many times have you gone to a crag and you are telling someone about a cool climb they should do and you mention it takes gear and there response is “ oh….I don’t own a rack” ? I love your trolls!!!!!! just out of curiosity, what is your hardest sport climb? me thinks you might be talking out of your ass as far as footwork goes...obviously, you've never seen high end limestone climbers and how supremely polished there footwork is... plus i don't twist my wrist...
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the perfect argument for my case is to look at who is actually leading the cutting edge of trad climbing...they ALL, to a one, started as hard core sport climbers... Yuji H Huber Bros Sonnie Trotter Tommy/Beth Caldwell hell, everyone gives sharma shit about being a sporto thug...so what's his first crack climb was a .13c placing his gear as he went...
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you dumb ass...i already said this...duh!
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well...you are the exception to the rule...generally, a sportclimber has higher footwork skills, and more finger power than a trad only climber and the transition to crack climbing merely involves learning a couple of types of simple jams... the gear is mechanical and it doesn't matter what your background is to make it work...its irrelevant to the discussion of "crack" vs. face/sport...its merely protection.
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no...he's right...i think he's talking about the climbing after you pull onto the ledge and step out right around the corner on JUGS...its sure as hell not crack climbing...and hell, even the two cruxes aren't really "crack" climbing...your liebacking...the technique of no technique...
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I got herpes from too much crack...
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he almost sounds like our very own DFA...
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FUCKIN'A!!! Right on, FRED!! One of these days i will have to take Tim up on his offers...I suspect that sumbitch is pullin' HARD these days... werd!
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FUCKIN' HILARIOUS!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- subtle wrote:I'm not sure exactly what will happen, but it's fairly likely that the resultant sexual tension would far exceed the 1.21 gigawatts necessary to activate the flux capacitor and send the whole gym back to the Enchantment Under the Sea dance in 1955... Yo, McFly, I got your spot! Send, daddy-o! The entire post was pure gold, but this snippet is quite possibly the best thing I have ever read. Bravo. subtle Jul 16, 2007, 6:31 PM Post #902 of 913 (1159 views) Copy Shortcut Registered: Sep 17, 2004 Posts: 414 Re: [zionvier] Ask the NOOB [in reply to] Can't Post -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- zionvier wrote:I'm glad to see "Ask the n00b" has returned to the forefront. But I do have a question for you, why do I need to learn to tie a figure 8? I've been tieing bow knots in my shoelaces for years and I feel very confident with my ability to tie them correctly. Isn't it better to stick with the knots you know so that you don't make a mistake with a new knot you just learned? I don't want to get hurt and I figure accidentally tieing a figure 8 wrong could get me killed, so why not just stick with what I'm comfortable with? I used to climb with a guy named Sean. He was a sick strong boulderer, but could occasionally be pursuaded to don a man-diaper and ropegun some Rumney 5.12 ish, especially if it involved a dyno or it looked like the sort of thing Dave Graham would have climbed when he was...eight...or something. Anyhow, Sean was not terribly precise about his pre-climbing preparations. One day, I asked him about the bird's nest of uber-tangle hanging off the front of his harness, and he looked me in the eye and said..."If you can't tie a knot, tie a lot". Word, broham. I mean, let's face the facts here. All that check-and-double-check stuff that they teach you in the $24.99 belay test and day pass combo at Xtreme Rock N' Birthday Party down by the mall lasts about six seconds in the real world. It's war out there, brother. You thought Vietnam was bad when you..ummm...saw Platoon on TV? Charlie Sheen never had to deal with maybe short-roping a hypercaffinated testy leader on a 5.12x in the pouring rain from a crap stance while deciding which direction to jump into a ditch to try to keep your jimmy-legging partner from decking out because it seriously doesn't look like they're going to make that move...but at least when you land in the ditch you will squash some of the mosquitos covering 95% of your body, just hopefully not on some talus or a mound of fossilized dog poo. And at this exact moment, I achieve a state of zen-like calm and ascend into a warm place of enlightenment because I know that I have checked my climber's knot...and everything is going to be just fine. ...and people ask me why I don't sport climb any more. Oh, I don't know...no reason... But, getting back to your question, the un-doubled shoelace-style friction slip knot seems perfectly appropriate for technical climbing applications. I mean, when was the last time your shoes ever came untied? It's been...sheesh, hours...right? If you're some sort of weak-kneed safety-a-holic, you can throw on a double knot or, better yet, get some of those plastic lace-grabby thingies that all the cool kids in chess club use. I scratched off the picture of Kermit the Frog and wrote Sharma4lyfe in white-out on mine...that's pretty cool, yo. The lace-style friction knot is also rumored to be the preferred method of gumb-to-twine attachment in the Shannon Foot Belay Way...a rogue offshoot of the mega-core Brake Hand Positioning and Orientation Relative to Belay Device forum. Whichever knot solution you end up with, I'm sure it'll all work out ok. I mean, you totally weren't going to fall, anyway...right? Allez. I use a 120M rope...it takes a lot of twine to tie a figure 888. Homard.
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my 15 year old TCU's are in great shape and i whip on them all of the time...absolutely stout!! I don't have any of the new DAT ones, so i don't know how they'll hold up, but i sure hope they haven't given up the Metolius ruggedness in favor of saving an oz or two...
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definitely not the quickening...
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Is that a route or a suggestion? I forgot the name of it anyway, can anyone advise if Peter is correct? Jeff, I'm pretty sure it's not churning, but it is one of the 12's up one of those gullies. (I'm so lame that I forgot the name of a route I FA'ed and named just last June, so maybe it is a suggestion ). IZZIT highway to hell, 12a at the mouth of aggro gulley?
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sure...i'll take that bet...
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anytime you need a pinch/spot just holler...
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its at chek...just below the big overhang/main event area... bunch of cheesy/squeezed in bolt routes around 5.10/11a...maybe savage beagle or one of its kin...
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well...truth be told...i never read the posts...just saw her posting in the fatboy threads and just ASSumed something...