RuMR

balance balance balance...

i don't know personally anyone that has besides Alan...Did you do it, Peter? Man, i'd love too, but too spooky for me...according to AW its actually not so bad... Man, he was incredible in his day...the quintessential/penultimate sport climber that goes down to the valley and kicked their asses at their own game...

all of the hard routes there have some commitment to them...that's why i laugh when the clowns on this board start sprayin' shit...hahahaha

yes...very well bolted start (courtesy of Mr. Burdo) into endurance climbing with a smattering of bolts...

pretty clean falls cuz its so damn steep...they would be absolutely enormous if you blew it though, plus factoring in rope stretch and what not...i think you could potentially go for 80+ feet...

only 1/8th actually... gee, i guess that leaves you with what? like 2 brain cells?

never climbed in the black...spent a lot of time at eldo though...eldo is all face/pebbles/pinches...train hard sport and you'll do fine at eldo...

hahahaha...you like my bolting on Lizard King???? Hahahaha...DoctorK wouldn't let me stick another bolt in...got a bloody nose bolting that thing...

notice that i have never said TRAD climbing...only CRACK climbing...

By definition, if they elevated their technical ability, they wouldn't be considered moderate... honestly, how do you fall off a 5.10 handcrack??????? Do you let go, turn around and then jump????

good point...

probably not as he was hatched from an egg as a full blown adult buttmunchin' tool...

They all trained on sport….thats how to get strong for crack…..you said they STARTED as hard core sport climbers. Tommy was taught to climb by his father who by all trades was and is a trad climber. Tommy was taught to climb gear……then turned to sport years later. i love it...you are making my point for me! dumbarse...sheesh, this is what i was saying to sherri at the very beginning...

nobody starts as hardcore anything, tool...tommy's dad was the one that got him into it and he began climbing before sport was widely accepted. He floursihed in climbing after sport though... With sonnie, he sport climbed much more in the beginning than trad... another example is beth rodden...yet another is katie brown...face it, you can crank on face, then you can crank on cracks... They didn't start sending hard trad UNTIL AFTER sending hard sport. That is where they learned to climb...man, sometimes you strike me as such a dumbass...

Inter view with TC and BR: Q: Your all-around abilities on rock amaze people. One month you send the hardest sport routes around and the next month you tick off a 30-pitch big-wall free climb. How do you switch back and forth so seemingly effortlessly between the unique demands of these types of climbing? A:The training we do is very similar for each type of climbing. If we have been training for sport climbing, we can usually adjust very quickly to El Cap routes. It doesn’t necessarily work the other way around.[/b] We have the knowledge of logistics and how to big wall free climb, so sport climbing training just prepares us for the physical part. We might add some more cardio into our day if we feel it is necessary.

craggin on the base of el cap is good... i'd head to tuolome..

fuck...after th NA wall, tommy even credited sport for his success... and explain yuji!! the fokker damn near onsighted the salathe and holds a slightly ok time up the nose!!! he was a world cup competitor for a loooooooong time... and explain der huber bros... and what about our very own mr. sjong???

yeah...i do... and tommy trained exclusively for sport for years...so did sonnie

Huber quote from when he came to the US/Yos first time: (paraphrasing here, i'm sure Dru can find the actual quote) "I just need to learn how to get my hand in there as i have power to spare...power is no issue"

Not true at all……in order to place the pro….you have to take a hand of for an extended period of time….which requires exceptional foot work. Pasting you foot against a smearing face hold is so different than jamming the tip of your toe in a crack that is the size of a penny. This is the troll part…..right? If jams are so simple then why does Joseph Healey still not like to do them after 30 years of climbing? And he is a smart guy. JH has never sport climbed. More finger power? Not so sure about that. Would it be accurate to say that crack climbers have stronger wrists because of all the twisting you do when jamming? If crack climbing is sooooo easy then why is it that the majority of climbers only climb sport? Because it’s a lot easier bro……how many times have you gone to a crag and you are telling someone about a cool climb they should do and you mention it takes gear and there response is “ oh….I don’t own a rack” ? I love your trolls!!!!!! just out of curiosity, what is your hardest sport climb? me thinks you might be talking out of your ass as far as footwork goes...obviously, you've never seen high end limestone climbers and how supremely polished there footwork is... plus i don't twist my wrist...

the perfect argument for my case is to look at who is actually leading the cutting edge of trad climbing...they ALL, to a one, started as hard core sport climbers... Yuji H Huber Bros Sonnie Trotter Tommy/Beth Caldwell hell, everyone gives sharma shit about being a sporto thug...so what's his first crack climb was a .13c placing his gear as he went...

you dumb ass...i already said this...duh!

Crack climbing = wedge meat/pull

well...you are the exception to the rule...generally, a sportclimber has higher footwork skills, and more finger power than a trad only climber and the transition to crack climbing merely involves learning a couple of types of simple jams... the gear is mechanical and it doesn't matter what your background is to make it work...its irrelevant to the discussion of "crack" vs. face/sport...its merely protection.

no...he's right...i think he's talking about the climbing after you pull onto the ledge and step out right around the corner on JUGS...its sure as hell not crack climbing...and hell, even the two cruxes aren't really "crack" climbing...your liebacking...the technique of no technique...