lunger

are you certain this doesn't belong in the freshiez forum? i'm not certain whether to be envious or laudatory. but certainly a good story, including the pre-prosecco prep.

you've prob figured this out by now, but i believe that's the NE couloir on D-tail. looks almost skiable... V-ful, thanks for the pics on NBC, looks fat with snow. is there continuous snow on the NW face (the stretch above NBC) too?

thanks Off, true, re-read the thread and decided i was overly sensitive...just a sensitive type i guess :[] you guys pretty much cited the seminal influences for the recent Cascade ski-mtnrng renaissance: from the Skoogs to Scurlock to Sky and the Hummels--all helped publicize what can be done 'round these parts and/or likely places to get after it. The info. not only inspires but definitely reduces the cost for folks seeking adventure, makes for fewer false starts to be sure. Yeah Pete, maybe there will come a day that this face will become like our beloved Slot couloir.

... When Gary and I climbed the face, we were climber's left of the central rib. Our route had a step that I don't think would be skiable. I'm guessing that you guys were skier's left of the rib. Correct? ... Hey Lowell, correct, we were skier's left of the central rib down low; we basically followed the zone of greatest snow in my picture over on Sky's site. I believe skier's right would require a chute, a wing, or some crazy free-ride skills. Tabke? We did some quick research when planning this, which (aside from a rumored attempt) yielded only this: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/322546/ Thanks for providing a little data! One last thing to add: we obviously had a rope and gear, but the snow conditions made their use impractical, and also allowed for safe--if tediously methodical--travel, with deep plunges of the axes or good sticks. I felt a whole lot better once I finally stood on 180cm of steel-edged planks to navigate downward. All to say, the (subtle?) subtext I'm picking up in some posts (that we were crazy or reckless) doesn't foot with my experience of the climb/ski. It certainly didn't feel casual, but not out of control either. Thanks all for the kind comments on Dan's excellent TR.

i'm sure they didn't want any cinematic evidence as the animal rights folks would frown on their methods. nice work gents. sounds like sustained fun.

right on Dan, good to hear tales from you. glad it all worked out.

Nice. That summit affords some pretty sweet views of the surrounding Wild Sky peaks.... "The real fun started on the summit traverse from the notch. Steep (60+ degree) snow wallowing with little pro with some big exposure down the north face!" In the summer it's a relatively chill exposed ledge--can imagine it feels pretty wild in teh winter!

Rodent of unusual verbosity! Spionin, here are a few pictures. (The key to avoiding the ratfinger is shoot first, don't ask questions later.) The beginning chimney of p.1: Looking down the finishing steep corner of p.1: Rolf about to move left to the crux crack/squeeze of p. 3: Looking down after pulling the crux of p. 3 (yes, newbie wears ski boots): Summit: Incredibly fun intro to steep mixed--thanks hardcore. There are more pictures and many, many words over here.

definitely respect. route description should include the moves to surmount the head-high mound of kitty litter. photos are in the latter part of this post here g-horn NE arete on right skyline

haha. ahem. nice description. reads a little like a chipmunk's nether-emissions. very fun route. improbably moderate. some photos, including route lines, here and here and here's the upper face for aspiring adventure-climbers

Nice work, love that area. Scuttlebutt is that the W or SW ridge is the best descent--perhaps go with single-rope raps to limit hassles? I've gone down the S face 'successfully' (ended up soloing a full rope length of the SF chimney to unstick a rap--young and dumber) and don't really recommend it.

Outstanding pics and report! I wondered how the approach from that direction would go. And Agnes is a compelling looking peak. I was on Sinister a few days before, and really enjoyed the same climb you guys did--any sign of my tracks remain? Seems like the snowpack was finally consolidating and changing pretty fast. Some views of the area from the perspective of the Ptarmigan Traverse: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=21521.0 The picasa link there has more pics, including Agnes.

scenic - climbing trick peak, garibaldi provincial park alpine - pete h on recent ptarmigan ridge mt rainier excursion cragging - lele on e buttress middle cathedral, el cap background skiing - dr s on nf shuksan, price lake backdrop humor - a reluctant ratweasel supermodel

Please advise, couldn't get through every post to see the expiry--is it too late to enter? I would like to upload some photos tomorrow (7/15).

You've prob already seen a second report here: http://forestmcbrian.com/?p=391 And I returned yesterday from the traverse and it is still lots of snow, much of it yet in the process of consolidating--more like May conditions. Good skiing.

Great pics, Dan!! This was a fantastic climb. Thanks for writing up our trip--I also put up some pics over here: http://skisickness.com/post/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=252 Unfortunately didn't get many skiing pics.

no bolt nazi here, but i tend to agree with the emissions of the rodent-arse. the climb is excellent in its current state. but not a danger route (based on my memories of the climb, at least). that said, i respect the FAs decision. and this is one hypocrite that'd probably enjoy rapping after the first 5, as also agree that the pitches above are not particularly aesthetic. is this (bolted, chained rap anchors) the first step toward D-tail as a cragging destination? heckuva crag--could see gobs of nice 5-8 pitch lines over on that NE buttress...

love that Centerfold--sustained, varied, challenging, fun--thanks for the pics!

all good suggestions. i'd add the W ridge of Thomson, mostly running, with a few pitches of rock. straight from the first Snoq Pass exit. The Red/Lundin/Mt Snoq (or vice-versa) traverse is an entertaining romp too.

Edited to let the record correctly reflect that indeed there is a register up there, according to my pardner.

That was a ton o'fun, Dan. Thanks for the pics. I posted a few on a TR over on Sky's site too. http://skisickness.com/post/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118

nice trip, K. looks like you caught good ski conditions.

Dan: great descriptive efforts for an indescribably great (I also lack the words) trip! a few of my pics. N side of the big dog: Tony, w/ Dan in distance: Casey's first turns from c. 13K, below the icy 'schrund: More skiing. The first is Tony perched above the shield with 5K of exposure to the Carbon Glacier below: few more: Liberty Ridge pics

great send. really enjoyed the writing in that last paragraph.

bowline on a bight (i recall john long called it the "atomic clip"?) is quick, simple and has worked well for me for years. the 'ears' are adjustable to equalize toward direction of pull, but not self-equalizing by design. dress properly, as always. the knot.