iain

Double-posting demon strikes again! [ 08-19-2002, 03:41 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

It helps to be able to sort out what kind of fear you are dealing with in given situation. Sometimes you can get plagued by that feeling of impending doom, where you can't really iron out why you are spooked. I seem to get this more often on bigger mountains around here (yeah, Hood/Rainier aren't that big, I know that you chest-beating hardmen ). Particularly places where you know people have died, even if they screwed up bigtime (top of Cooper Spur is this way for me, though it's well within my ability and comfort level). Being able to climb through this type of fear can be difficult. Then there is the fear of what might happen, but probably won't (what if the swage on that nut just rips right off, I'm dead!). Another one to ignore! Then there is the "if this ice tool pops I'm falling 300 feet" type of fear. That's the one to pay attention to! [ 08-19-2002, 03:41 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

quote: Originally posted by mattp: So my question is, what about Friday afternoons -- harder or easier when you are planning a big outing? Harder. I start thinking (esp. on those early season climbs) hours from now I'm going to be hanging out on some steep shit miles from anywhere, freezing cold, scared at times, and who knows what else, and by choice! Makes it difficult to concentrate on Fri afternoon.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: eh, if it was for the climbers sole it would be chickenhead soup... I was going to make that exact joke but managed to fight off the urge. Some of us, however, have gone clinical. -the sole chief chickenhead slinger.

I finally ruined my original Casio altimeter watch (you know that old one w/ yellow buttons) by trying to replace the battery myself. I'd send it in. Maybe they'll break it and have to give you one of the new ones so you can join the army of clones wearing that wall clock thing.

I have found smiling helps in grim spots.

quote: Originally posted by glen: ...just started taking whippers until I understood that it was okay. Taking whippers is never okay unless sport climbing. You should be afraid to fall, and learn to accept that fear (which will always be there) and use it to focus on the climbing at hand. There are plenty of classics out there on which you just don't want to fall.

quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. cgentzel@aai.cc But judging by your address don't you work for a guiding company?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: judging by what you found, i would say at least 2, possibly 4 previous descents had been made unless you suggest they all fell as a group (while roped together...) Damn your right, foiled again! We really wanted the first ascent of that magnificent line. This was all crap that people had let blow off the ridgeline. There is yet another nalgene teetering below the crawl if anyone wants it. We didn't have time to rerig on the other side.

They probably would have worked just as well as webbing on that rock. There is also a spindrift of nalgene bottles that forms down on the west side, but we did not see it this time.

Three Fingered Jack, OR Did a very long lower down from above "the crawl" over the west face. Collected the following: two polar fleece jackets, a purple wool hat, a small backpack. The rock was abysmal. Had to be a second, if not first descent/ascent!

check out the mackin snafflehound in the bottom left as well. that bro has it good all 'round

bullshit man, there's no brush over there. it's a cakewalk. I've been making attempts on Mt. Spears for 15+ years so I am more than qualified to determine what is bushy and what is not.

quote: Originally posted by Dr. Ben Krazy: Cold. You're asking for a verbal thrashing from MountainMan. Better post your home address and get it over with!

PS could someone post the topo?

yeah but I've heard the overhanging roof crux varies in difficulty seasonally. Sometimes mixed terrain, sometimes decidely icy. It's a route for those who think young, really.

To what does the north face refer? The Eiger?

nothing like a good poo-pushing thread. getting warmed up for a friday evening on the town dudes?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Arc'teryx designers are known 4:20 ers No wonder they have all those little zipper stash pockets.

nope, web lackey right now. but my degrees are in geology and biology hence the shakey chem. Too much organic chemistry..brain can't absorb....shudder.

I thought it was settled that you were supposed to run down slabs...

err, MgCO3

Hmm...drop coils it is then!

someone mentioned it would be fun to bring a bucket of 1M HCl to classic crack, pour it in, and watch the thing fizz out from all the MgCl slime.

exactly. On first visit sites like that make me thing "hey that's cool." but the subsequent visits get to be a chore. That stuff works great as a corporate faceplate if you are a rich media developer or something similar, but for your typical consumer climber who wants to get the specs on something quickly, it's a little stiff on the download. Then again, your typical arcteryryryx'didas' teryx consumer probably has the bandwidth to swallow this thing. I happen to have a fast cxt'n. I found it pretty to look at, but pretty annoying in the long run. PS. How'm I supposed to outrun the cougars if I have to wait for my namesake site to load? Now for some Midnight Oil