iain

quote: Originally posted by Roger: Major literary bonus points to anyone who can identify the author and name of the story that inspired the song.... Albert Camus, L'Etranger.

autoblocks suck on double rope rappels. too much weight. just get a grip and let er rip.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Isn't threading the rope directly through webbing a commonly regarded no-no? I don't see any problem with it if you are just doing a single rappel. It also spares you the task of threading the rope through a ring (you can just tie the webbing over the midpoint). I've done it plenty of times. It's those stupid punks who lower in that setup who get themselves killed. Anyone disagree w/ me? [ 08-09-2002, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: iain ]

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: strandss weren't threaded thru the biner that the ATC was attached to, but thru a different biner on my harness. WTF? Just through another on a belay loop or something? Haven't had the opportunity to mess up too much, but we did double-rope rappel off a pillar in the Melville Group, Selkirks. Both ropes were damp, and we fed the rope directly through a webbing anchor. Pulling the rope was impossible from the combination of rope stretch, webbing stretch, and dampness, and we had another rappel and unknown terrain to get out of a gulley. We ended up rigging a 3:1 to pull the line, after several desperate attempts to get the thing down. bring rap rings or junk biners for the long wet rappels I guess.

wouldn't hurt to give the line a good soaking and see if your prusiks don't slip on a z-drag (or whatever you use) and do some quick ascending too. you guys and your 30m ropes

You know you're in the USA when someone has to cogitate between an array of way-over-priced mattresses. Pretty soon they will make crashpads for specific climbing areas, specific problems, specific beanie hat types, etc. etc. Bouldering itself is cool. The bouldering scene, however , I think is hilarious .

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Ugh, the '80s ... where's the "puking guts out" emoticon ..?

I stand corrected.

excuse me, but I think you are referring to RATT, ( ) as opposed to RAT ( )

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: The Portland Rock Gym's lovely this time of year. they need to change out their techno eurotrash music

the "d" threw me as well

having trouble with that one...just got busted for craning my head upside down looking at monitor...

I think the Baumans made some diagrams of the Menagerie (one of them was the primary force behind the wilderness designation). I'll see if I can get it and post it as a PDF or something here.

That would be the South Santiam River. I've tooled around in the wilderness a bit but have not climbed anything there yet. Cool stuff.

Mille Sabords!

blistering barnacles dru.

If you're looking for summits on rock, here's some options down by Santiam Pass: Some moderate stuff: Mt. Washington, North Ridge (5.1) Three Fingered Jack (5.1) easy, fun climbing! Some more-involved stuff: Mt. Washington, West Face (5.6, exposed 4th class) some loose pro on the first pitch, avoid if anyone above you. Mt. Washington, West Ridge (5.7/5.8, exposed 4th class) Snow stuff (these are a bit of a march though): Sunshine, Mt. Hood Jeff Park G/Russell G., Mt. Jefferson (share a 5.1 traverse and pinnacle after some glacier)

quote: Originally posted by Dru: he aint eating horsecock... vs looks more like he's beating horsecock.

yes the notice generates a lot of fear and uncertainty w/o the specifics. I guess the chemical penetrates to the kern? I don't see how it would fail otherwise. I'd like to see the numbers, but I would think a UIAA test suite is legit.

indeed, but there's a lot of us out there who can't do a 100 something dollar upgrade just to get the biweave stuff. I agree, they are great.

heh, the petercroftefier strikes again!

I think Zenolith may have mentioned this a while back (months ago), but here is a UIAA note about marking your rope. I, for one, thought a marker was okay. Guess not. http://www.uiaa.ch/commissions/newsitem.asp?idnews=191

"it's two-tool conditions in the gully" stern quote from dude coming down Mt. Washington N Ridge a few years back. small patch of ice found on the way up, easily avoided on one side.

Nice to see you making good use of the paste-n-glue sessions in kindergarten these days.

who was asking if trask ever climbed? evidence above.