Crackbolter

Sorry for pulling my last post. My point was moot. I climbed there last year and loved it. I think there are only 4 bolts though. I didn't notice a bolted crack.

Bringing it back around again, I see Index as quite a standard in bolting ethics There are a few good points regarding bolting aid lines and how necessary it is to "fix" the route after it has been established as a free climbing route. I believe this is standard procedure. Swept away under the rug are unconventional methods our pioneers used in order to achieve a first ascent in our beloved cascades. Many of these methods will be lost considering many of the routes rarely ever see a repeat let alone "classic" status in a climbing memoir from a local writer. As technologies have changed, so have ascent methods. How many climbers are willing to set fourth the effort to scrub a route for days on end just so their friends can have the fortune of repeating it without all of the dirt? Is cleaning cracks unethical or should it be the amount of traffic that determines "classic" status and routes should naturally exfoliate vegetation and dirt? These are ethics questions that need to be addressed along with bolting. They impact our climbing areas and as a result could change the way some of the route cleaners address the community with ascent information. The result could be that routes will continue to be developed but will be kept to only a select few so criticism will occur long after the route has been established. A result will be areas with routes and no ratings, no names, no F/A history and no guidebooks for climbers to enjoy new areas. Is this what the climbing community wants? I ask everyone to state their own opinion because this question could determine the fate of future ascents.

Jumpoff

If you would have taken my advise you could have saved an hour on the approach. Approaching the slabs below the S face is much faster than hiking all the way to Prussik pass. Too bad there were inexperienced folks heeding poor advise at Vivian.

Where did you climb WI 3 for ski mountaineering descents?

Was that with Tom, Bob or cute daughter?

Can you climb dirt?

Of course! tony@featheredfriends.com Come on in if you want to see samples

Webpages are fixed.

Yes

It's eVent not event! Its Epic by Nextec not epic! Why have a bivy sack in the first place? Just go home if it rains. You can save as much as 3 pounds by not bringing one. Just buy a sleeping bag with Epic by Nextec on the outside, Pertex Quantum on the inside and a YKK Uratek zipper. Oh wait, no one make a bag with a windproof zipper yet. Maybe one day. 4 New 30 degree bags It is about time ain't it? New jacket too.

Very interesting indeed.

Nice chime headspacer.

Oh come now Andy, we all know you and Cole have a fridge stocked with Boundry Bay kegs and kegerator taps on the outside in the office.

One other thing, pro deals are easy to come by. Just about anyone will offer a pro deal but not many companies are willing to give away gear. Consider offering incentive such as a slideshow at their local retailer or images for advertisement. The whole reason they are sponsoring climbs in the first place is for marketing so you need to find ways to help them market their products that will capture a very large audience. If you plan on writing articles to big name publications and they notice you are wearing or using their equipment, they are more likely to give money or gear away. You need to have articles already published though.

I get requests every day. Most are just climbing the same old boaring peaks as the guide companies are guiding. Many have a specific cause for the climb such as donating the proceeds to cancer research or environmental cleanup on the mountain, etc. If you want sponsorship to the full degree, make up a climbing resume and a gameplan. The biggest sponsorship I did this year was because it coencided (sp?) with publications that I advertise with and other gear companies that are in the same ballpark as us (Arc'Teryx, Life Link, Black Diamond, etc). If you would like a copy of a recent sponsorship resume to model yours after, just e-mail me off the board. Other advise, stay away from BIG companies liek TNF, MH & Marmo'. They could give a rats ass about the cool stuff you are doing. They want a poster child not real life adventurers. Good luck!

Not because of my backcast...I hand tie my leaders.

Beck, do you know who is watching this forum? Do you know the famous and not so famous folks who make up the community? Maybe a few well know old timers chime in now and then but a few old timers never chime in but are reading your nonsense. Work gets out real fast because the "community" is much smaller than one would think and climbers have been known to remain friends well after thier age shuts them down. Shame on you dude.

Wait a second....Isn't this thread supposed to be in SPRAY?

BTW, my Leather Asolos are for sale. Size 12. I'll take $20 for em.

Only on looooonnnnnggggg casts does your arm have to drop for the delay. For short double hauls you can use the same effective stroke as a normal cast with no hauls. This will speed up the line and help punch all of the line coiled up on the ground/water.