Crackbolter

I'm wondering why there aren't more routes on the buttress like the condorph. addiction.

This is something I am curious about. Does anyone have the Petzl ice hammer?

I hope you guys find this a bit useful.

I would like to add a couple to the most difficult list: N. buttress of E. McMillian- I am not sure if this route has been repeated, anyone know? W. Face Gunsight- 4 failed attempts that I know of in 3 years and I am sure there have been many more that I don't know of.

It's cause you weren;t invited -CB

Alpine climbing is missing one thing...

I'd also suggest Epic as the shell fabric. I would also suggest Pertex Quantum as the interior fabric. The Quantum has been plenty durable and breathable so eventually it will be our standard nylon if Pertex can make it more abundant. Click Here to see all of the color combinations available. Right now Pertex only can supply us with abnormal Quantum colors but at least we have enough Epic colors to match. Let me know if you have any more questions. e-mail me at customerservice@featheredfriends.com -Tony

This bit should work well.

Can I come?

It should be in about the same time as most of the Stuart Range or Cashmere crag routes. The route is 3 pitches. 5.8, 5.10+, 5.9. I posted it so you guys could climb it if you felt like it.

Climb: Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon Date of Climb: 9/29/2001 Trip Report: The wall is listed in the CAG as "a triangular slab..corner..climbed by Pete Doorish...5.7, etc" (See "The Mole" and you will find the paragraph on the slab) The route had obviously been climbed before so it is confirmed that Pete Doorish did the first ascent although we found this information out just after we had climbed the route. The first pitch is 5.8, the central corner pitch is the crux at 5.10+ and the final pitch is a splended hand crack to the top. Descend by traversing the crest and a short rappel into a low angle sandy gully. This is an ideal second day route if you are planning on climbing the Mole, Blockhouse or Duolith. Given the quality of rock, exposure and location, I think this route deserves to be repeated many times. It is a bit short for the approach but well worth the effort. Gear Notes: Standard rack to 3.5" All pitches have very good gear! Approach Notes: We approached the route by hiking up the Hook Creek Drainage (From Icicle Creek) and traversing the Edward Mesa then hiking down the gully that leads into the Rat Creek Drainage. You may bivy either in the Hook Creek drainage (with plenty of water) or on the Mesa which is harder to find water.

you might also try http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com Lots of fishermen looking to hook up to target anadromous runs right now.

I was directing my comment to Kurt. I see him as a worthy candidate since he has plenty of knowledge in bolting ethics as you can plainly see. The point I am trying to make is that fact that anyone can be critical since criticism is easy but when it comes down to it, no one has any intention but to cause awareness. Even at the cost of their relationship with their peers. I see no point in creating a web-mob to deconstruct an individual about a particular route other than to have the result be negative.

No, I am serious. I see no problem with fixing something you see as a problem. Just don't go patting yourself on the back by posting it on this site. AlpineK climbed Condorph. He whined about the bolts due to his own standards of bolt spacing. In his case, he is merely a spectator commenting about something without any further action taken other than what comes from his easychair. RUMR, you too need to put your time in. Ask PeterP, Viktor, Darryl and Matt for a list and get to work. I am sure you probably have your own list as well. To be a diplomat in this community, you need some drill and crowbar time I think. Otherwise, you really are just another climber whining about the bolts. So whats new?

AlpineK, What do you expect is going to happen as a result of your complaints? I'll bet nothing at all. Why don't you go chop what you disagree with? You can then show the purpouse of your efforts by climbing the same routes without the unnecessary bolts. Just be sure to plug the holes with epoxy and take some sand and cover the epoxy up so it looks natural. There are a lot of routes out there, some need some improvement. Please either put in your time fixing the problem or quit complaining.

You locals know about this?

I can't wait to see the best speed ascent record on it in a few years...and in 20 years and then 50 years!

FF might be interested. forward this t him: jeff@featheredfriends.com If not, maybe Greg can help from the other shop that does slideshows can take him.

Skippin OR for Maui this year. Have fun!

Eastslope Cascades. I won't say where because I am selfish about my powder stashes. My partner was going to fast to get ahead of him to take photos. My camera was too fogged anyways.

last week

The threads are not a concern, it is when the nut is being tightened to the expansion sleeve. It is mainly a concern of overtightening the nut.

I disagree that buttonheads are worthless. If you climb a route and need to pass a bolt that I have placed or clip it for a belay, I think you would trust that it will hold a fall. The interior width of a 5/16" rawl is only 1/4" I believe. I'd rather not take a shear fall on a 1/4" shaft that could have been stressed while twisting a nut around it to tighten it. I have seen the nut shear the shaft without much effort at all in a controlled situation. (meaning at home in a vise rather than in the mtns) If a 5/16" buttonhead is placed wrong and the head bends before it mushrooms over the hanger, they are less reliable than if it is hammered straight in. I think skill is what makes them bomber, not the nature of the material. I will continue to use 5/16" buttonheads until they are not available. They are in fact, bomber and I trust every one that I have placed. I also apologize in advance if it sounds like I am chestbeating. I am only stating my opinion based on my own personal experiences. I don't think that everyone should follow my lead when it comes to equipment selection since it is simply a matter of style and opinion.

Kit bag would contain: Metolious hangers 5/16" buttonheads spare Hilte bit spare allen key hook for resting while drilling on lead hand drill Hilte drill bit Question: A Chounard alpine hammer with an ash handle and alpine pick or Estwing rock tool seems to be the best setup for bolting efficiently on lead. What do other folks use who are experienced in this type of craft? I am looking for something lighter but just as sturdy for easy swinging. Second tools are good for pitons but lack the beef for drilling quickly. Just curious.

So far the predictions sound right on. I don;t know about climbers from out of state.