Crackbolter

Climb: Mt. Stuart-Ulrich's Couloir Ski Descent Date of Climb: 5/1/2004 Trip Report: May 1st, 2004, Mt. Stuart-Ulrich's Couloir « on: 05/02/04 at 19:11:35 » Quote | Modify On April 30th I started up the Teanaway River Road only to find a hiker with his rear wheel drived minitruck stuck on the snowpatch where most park and avoid further progress. After 10 minutes of digging his rear axle out and pushing his truck back, I hopped in the truck and drove his sorry ass out of the way and proceeded to start hiking. Instead of hiking directly to Long's Pass, I decided to circumnavigate Ingall's and up over Stuart Pass which was quite eventful as a descent route to the base of Stuart. 4 snowmobilers were poaching Stuart Pass, Ingall's Pass and I also noted a highmark up into the West Ridge Couloir. That evening I bivied in the trees at the base of the route. The next day I bootpacked up what I thought to be the couloir entrance, only to realize that I was a tad too far to the right. After about 1000' I descended around a rib and entered the couloir. After slow progress upward, I stood at the base of the ridge ampitheatre, put my poles on my back and put crampons on, grabbed the axe and moved leftward towards the summit pyramid. About 40' before the summit, the couloir ended abruptly at a notch where I was able to carefully peer down into the north side of Stuart. I decided that it would be useless to try and ski from the summit so I parked my pack and skis and traversed steep snow ledges to the summit. After downclimbing back down I stepped a few feet to where I could cut a ledge to put my skis on and descend. The descent was about very steep and narrow for about 50' but after going through the slot, it mellowed out to enjoyable turns. The stability was not so good since the couloir was exposed with sun all afternoon. After knocking snow loose, it started sluffing. The sluff was very slow but also heavy which caused me to proceed with caution as I went from slot to open slopes. Towards the end, I descended to where a small cliff blocked my descent so I took my skis off and traversed right through a chossy cliff band and into a thin gully that connected the final exit. I went to bed with plenty of daylight to spare, woke up very early and climbed to Long's Pass and descended to the road. 2 miles before I was at my car, two nice ladies were very kind to give me a ride back down to my car. Gear Notes: BD Havoc 175cm, O2 bindings, Glidelight skins with loops that were to narrow (kept falling off, replaced with ski straps), Raven Pro 75cm, Grivel G-12's Approach Notes: The road was 1.5 miles advanced by the time I was back to the car. Glad I didn't have to boot it in my plastics all the way back.

Dan, Contact Tim M. since he was up at SCW yesterday. At least he can tell you if it was lost before of after the wall.

Post deleted by Crackbolter

You might try and hunt down the Crowder/Tabor book on the Mt Challenger Quad. It is called Rocks and Routes written in the 60's. Check the Mountaineers Library. There is very useful hiking information in that book. Between the Beckey approach notes and the Rocks and routes book, you should have enough info. Bring axe, cramps, 8mm rappel rope and expect rain.

I can see how you would be alarmed if some guy just jumps on your route without a rope. His nickname is "The Gaper" and I'd be willing to guess that he does it a few times a week and has been for 15 years or longer. Now is it still alarming? I know folks who do the same thing at Marrymoore and Uw rocks. Oh yeah, I'm bringing those slides to you this weekend Mr Gaper. I'll be looking to climb something if you are available. You should post something about this topic!!!

what a convenient way of ignoring all those pinnacles and summits that are too hard for you. There seem to be many technically challenging pinnacles, needles and spires less than 400 ft. tall that only Pete Doorish has ever climbed Can you list a few Dru?

I made the first in Google for Crackbolter!!!!

I'm wondering why there aren't more routes on the buttress like the condorph. addiction.

This is something I am curious about. Does anyone have the Petzl ice hammer?

I hope you guys find this a bit useful.

I can get one for wholesale so offers must be below wholesale. Thanks.

I would like to add a couple to the most difficult list: N. buttress of E. McMillian- I am not sure if this route has been repeated, anyone know? W. Face Gunsight- 4 failed attempts that I know of in 3 years and I am sure there have been many more that I don't know of.

It's cause you weren;t invited -CB

Alpine climbing is missing one thing...

I'd also suggest Epic as the shell fabric. I would also suggest Pertex Quantum as the interior fabric. The Quantum has been plenty durable and breathable so eventually it will be our standard nylon if Pertex can make it more abundant. Click Here to see all of the color combinations available. Right now Pertex only can supply us with abnormal Quantum colors but at least we have enough Epic colors to match. Let me know if you have any more questions. e-mail me at customerservice@featheredfriends.com -Tony

This bit should work well.

Can I come?

It should be in about the same time as most of the Stuart Range or Cashmere crag routes. The route is 3 pitches. 5.8, 5.10+, 5.9. I posted it so you guys could climb it if you felt like it.

Climb: Triangular Slab Next to the Mole/Duolith-Central Corner AKA-Puff the Magic Dragon Date of Climb: 9/29/2001 Trip Report: The wall is listed in the CAG as "a triangular slab..corner..climbed by Pete Doorish...5.7, etc" (See "The Mole" and you will find the paragraph on the slab) The route had obviously been climbed before so it is confirmed that Pete Doorish did the first ascent although we found this information out just after we had climbed the route. The first pitch is 5.8, the central corner pitch is the crux at 5.10+ and the final pitch is a splended hand crack to the top. Descend by traversing the crest and a short rappel into a low angle sandy gully. This is an ideal second day route if you are planning on climbing the Mole, Blockhouse or Duolith. Given the quality of rock, exposure and location, I think this route deserves to be repeated many times. It is a bit short for the approach but well worth the effort. Gear Notes: Standard rack to 3.5" All pitches have very good gear! Approach Notes: We approached the route by hiking up the Hook Creek Drainage (From Icicle Creek) and traversing the Edward Mesa then hiking down the gully that leads into the Rat Creek Drainage. You may bivy either in the Hook Creek drainage (with plenty of water) or on the Mesa which is harder to find water.

you might also try http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com Lots of fishermen looking to hook up to target anadromous runs right now.

I was directing my comment to Kurt. I see him as a worthy candidate since he has plenty of knowledge in bolting ethics as you can plainly see. The point I am trying to make is that fact that anyone can be critical since criticism is easy but when it comes down to it, no one has any intention but to cause awareness. Even at the cost of their relationship with their peers. I see no point in creating a web-mob to deconstruct an individual about a particular route other than to have the result be negative.

No, I am serious. I see no problem with fixing something you see as a problem. Just don't go patting yourself on the back by posting it on this site. AlpineK climbed Condorph. He whined about the bolts due to his own standards of bolt spacing. In his case, he is merely a spectator commenting about something without any further action taken other than what comes from his easychair. RUMR, you too need to put your time in. Ask PeterP, Viktor, Darryl and Matt for a list and get to work. I am sure you probably have your own list as well. To be a diplomat in this community, you need some drill and crowbar time I think. Otherwise, you really are just another climber whining about the bolts. So whats new?

AlpineK, What do you expect is going to happen as a result of your complaints? I'll bet nothing at all. Why don't you go chop what you disagree with? You can then show the purpouse of your efforts by climbing the same routes without the unnecessary bolts. Just be sure to plug the holes with epoxy and take some sand and cover the epoxy up so it looks natural. There are a lot of routes out there, some need some improvement. Please either put in your time fixing the problem or quit complaining.

You locals know about this?

I can't wait to see the best speed ascent record on it in a few years...and in 20 years and then 50 years!