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Everything posted by Off_White
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Bah, there's no match worth the time since the big push up contest between Porter and Fern at the Sausagefest. Oh, and back to the topic at hand, I was once standing around in a small group with Ed LaChapelle when someone referred to him as an "avalanche expert." With a gleam in his eye, Ed protested, "Oh no, I'm no expert, all the experts are dead!"
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[TR] Forbidden peak - East ridge direct 7/12/2008
Off_White replied to A2THEK's topic in North Cascades
Wait a minute, you mean folks have been critiquing Dallas Kloke's choice of rack? Thanks for the pics, I love that route, I'd take it over the west ridge any day. -
Dosewallips River Road repair - New EIS Released
Off_White replied to sailBOI's topic in Access Issues
John, Rod has been more than polite, and sticking to the topic at hand. Please give the slurs and assumptions a rest, it's inappropriate here. Please make your case regarding why you think the road should not be repaired without resorting to slander, whether it's Rod or Ira Spring who is your target. I assure you such tactics are not persuasive. -
[TR] Forbidden peak - East ridge direct 7/12/2008
Off_White replied to A2THEK's topic in North Cascades
Thanks for the TR, did you guys take any pictures? That's such a scenic route. -
Normally it would be catch-and-release, but I assume a trophy like that is a keeper.
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Well, and it's the same outfit on the climber as in the first one, though that first shot must be a different pitch than the enduro corner with the reddish lichen that everyone posts photos of. I've been thinking it might be nice to polish up my ropegun and go do that route this year, even though I know it means I'll be leading the bombay gut-clutch-a-thon chimney.
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[TR] Forbidden peak - East ridge direct 7/12/2008
Off_White replied to A2THEK's topic in North Cascades
Hey! Not everyone is as cool and talented as you two, if you want to kvetch about someone's TR go whisper it to your pillow. -
Yeah, I was thinking CBR but so many people here have done that route without piping up that I suspect I'm off base.
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"Ascensionist" is one of those words that acts a a filter to weed out peeple hoo don't spell too gud.
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This is sort of like saying the American revolution was caused by a tax on tea in Boston: popular mythology that vastly oversimplifies the situation. Old history anyways, sleeping dogs and all that. Move along, nothing to see here. These are not the droids you're looking for. Muffy is correct though, offers of personal violence are pretty strictly off limits around here, don't carry on with this schtick even if you two are just idly flapping your gums.
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Fuck, not you too? Do your research, EVERY GENERATION is cursed for being short-sighted, self-centered, and less remarkable than the previous generation BY THE PREVIOUS GENERATION. We're not talking just climbing here, but every facet of human existence. Grow the fuck up all you bitter old farts and let go of the notion that you were so fucking special back in the day. IT'S NOT TRUE! Some day you'll be revered, but for now you're just a doddering self important pud pulling dick whistle. Once you're dead and gone and can't ruin the reverent ambiance with petulant complaints, someone might remember you fondly, though perhaps the Internet makes this less likely.
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Well, the "stellar" was courtesy of Silver Star, and if fuzzy memory serves, we had a lunar eclipse during the FA weekend. I do think the last pitch to the Whine Spire is all that and a bag of nuts. I suspect Ross and "Lunger" may have repeated that pitch at the end of their foray on that wall, and I think they called it 5.10d. Sounds likely, Steve called it 11a (he led, cleaning lichen while dangling from finger locks), but given that I managed to follow without falling 10d might be a more likely grade. If that traverse (from the end of the 5.10- pitch up the ear at the left end of the oatmeal ledge?) and final 5.9 pitch are palatable, this route would clock in at 5.10- rather than 5.11a, a much more friendly grade. With regards to the first pitch, it was an afterthought added when we climbed it again in 93 to find a way around the stacked card table death pitch. Given that a 4th class ledge system bypasses that initial sparsely bolt protected 5.11 pitch, I certainly wouldn't argue with the term "contrived". Congratulations, I think that's the first time anyone has covered that ground in 15 years. Some lichen since I somewhat scrubbed it back then is not surprising.
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Me. Bill, it makes me sad because I've known the Dawg intermittently for almost 30 years, and that collapse into the stereotypical old person's rant about how the youth today just don't get it, their music sucks, their ethics are debased, and life in general has gone downhill since I was young has been repeated ad infinitum since Sophocles started to feel old. C'mon, you, me, and the Dawg are essentially peers, doesn't it make you sad when your friends retreat into that "when we were young giants stalked the earth" bullshit? I do count Don as a friendly sort, if not a bosom buddy, and I'd happily climb with him and have every confidence in his skills, and I'm sure we'd have a giddy good time on whatever we did, but it just makes me sad that he views the world from the wrong end of the telescope and everything looks so far away and alien. Okay, now you know it, I'm actually a tender hearted individual, and I can't really laugh at someone else's sincere pain, and the Dawg's pain around climbing is quite sincere and heartfelt. He's not posing.
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Scarpa La Menestral, mine are 20 years old on August 29th (who keeps that kind of track on shoe anniversary's eh?) and on their 4th sole, and I just love them to pieces. Stiff edgers that still smear very well. My wish list for shoes is a good modern high top that will keep the gobies off my ankles while engaged in a little real climbing, as well as comfortable enough to wear all day on a grade IV without sniveling and taking them off on ledges.
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[TR] Dragontail - Dragons of Eden V 5.11+ A2 7/9/2008
Off_White replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
You know, with a cog railway to Colchuck Lake we could really make something out of that place. Can't you see it, the Chateau Colchuck, fine dining in the Dragontail Room, late nights in the Balanced Rock Bar? -
Thanks for sharing with the world, not only am I old and fat, but I have glaring white legs and I fall top roped on 5.11c. No, really, thanks, it was splendid climbing with you on Wednesday, you're an enthusiastic and encouraging partner.
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E-rock, you light up my life.
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Dawg, you sound like such a sad and bitter person yearning for those days in your youth when climbing made you feel special, it breaks my heart. I mean it, it bums me out. I'm outta here.
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While I'll certainly never be Navajo White, I thought I'd wait until 65 to be Antique White. I'm a spray mod, right? There's nothing in the digression that upsets me, and it's actually quite touching to get a greatest hits image post from Pink's back catalog.
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Wow, this thread is just the thing for someone who likes that sort of thing.
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Don't you mean "home-wrecking slut who got the man she was having an affair with to divorce his wife and marry her"?
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Sounds well thought out.
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Hey, I cheated death another day, how much more can a body wish for?
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Fall on Ride the Lightning (Tieton, Goose Egg)
Off_White replied to Rock Kliembber's topic in Climber's Board
I'm glad it didn't turn out any worse. I was one of the two folks who chatted your party up at the spring down by the road. Hope your healing is swift. -
Ya know, some climbers were assholes long before there was the internet. I'm pretty sure Edward Whymper was an asshole. I know for a fact Dick Cilley (remember, the start of this thread?) was an asshole when I first met him in the Valley in 1977 and he's still an asshole (remember, the start of this thread?) and frankly, I wouldn't have him any other way, I like him just the way he is. Mattp's making some of you think of him as an asshole, and I like him a helluva lot too. Oh, and both of those guys are right too: the Northwest is not the most fabulous climbing destination on the planet, regardless of your particular favorite flavor: bouldering, trad cragging, sport climbing, volcanoes, deep water soloing, ice climbing, alpine rock, or even cave diving (remember Dennis, whatever happened to that asshole?). I live here by choice and I love it to pieces, but that doesn't mean it must be "the best." Hell, if I could follow Dick up his warm up routes I'd consider taking a number and sleeping in his grotty Spanish snake ridden cave. The man has always been good with a stick, and he whacked this drowsy hornet nice pretty nicely. Ya'll have a good night.