Off_White

chew before you swallow

Nice rebuttal W. I'd say the first responsibility of traditional mountaineering is expect that you're on your own out there and act accordingly.

Yeah Goatboy, I tried that "religious purposes" dodge on the Teanaway a number of years ago, it didn't work then either. I argued back and forth on the phone, wound up sending them $5. My method of late is to park just before the sign, which as I understand it means it doesn't apply. That's worked so far, and the extra walk is usually not much at all.

Perhaps you need to climb at more places on the west coast then! In keeping with your sentiments though, I won't tell you which ones. In all seriousness, Banks is not a national destination, and there are an awful lot of other places to choose from within the given radius from Pugetopolis. You're right though, friends don't let friends post on RC.com

Really? I didn't figure you for that kind of sprayer.

Sad to lose such an outstanding individual at only 60 years old. Mead was one of those climbers that mattered.

I know you think we understand what you thought you said, but I'm not sure that what we read is not what you meant.

If you fall for this old hoax pink, boy have I got a deal on a bridge for you.

Given some of the work you've done at your private crag, I suspect these attributes attracted you rather than "put you off". Dude that’s just rude!!!! OFF has declined putting up easy manufactured routes at his crag and it’s a freak’n quarry... link (don't know why OW took down the photos) Uh, that would be because they weren't my photos, fool. It was some educational venue in New Zealand, I guess they took them down. Someone seems to have swallowed the hook though...

100% agree Was Morrissey the name you were groping for?

4:30 on is a safe bet, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's a couple people over there already.

High of 67 and mostly sunny, it's looking really good for tomorrow. Wow, two weeks in a row, could this be a trend? Most things are dry, come play tomorrow.

There are many things people do not know about BARACK OBAMA. Barack Obama wears a FLAG PIN at all times. Even in the shower. Barack Obama says the PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE every time he sees an American flag. He also ends every sentence by saying, "WITH LIBERTY AND JUSTICE FOR ALL." Click here for video of Obama quietly mouthing the PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE in his sleep. A tape exists of Michelle Obama saying the PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE at a conference on PATRIOTISM. Every weekend, Barack and Michelle take their daughters HUNTING. Barack Obama is a PATRIOTIC AMERICAN. He has one HAND over his HEART at all times. He occasionally switches when one arm gets tired, which is almost never because he is STRONG. Barack Obama has the DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE tattooed on his stomach. It's upside-down, so he can read it while doing sit-ups. There's only one artist on Barack Obama's iPod: FRANCIS SCOTT KEY. Barack Obama is a DEVOUT CHRISTIAN. His favorite book is the BIBLE, which he has memorized. His name means HE WHO LOVES JESUS in the ancient language of Aramaic. He is PROUD that Jesus was an American. Barack Obama goes to church every morning. He goes to church every afternoon. He goes to church every evening. He is IN CHURCH RIGHT NOW. Barack Obama's new airplane includes a conference room, a kitchen, and a MEGACHURCH. Barack Obama's skin is the color of AMERICAN SOIL. Barack Obama buys AMERICAN STUFF. He owns a FORD, a BASEBALL TEAM, and a COMPUTER HE BUILT HIMSELF FROM AMERICAN PARTS. He travels mostly by FORKLIFT. Barack Obama says that Americans cling to GUNS and RELIGION because they are AWESOME.

That's the definitive signature right there!

It's not readily apparent what the bolts are. I'm pretty sure some are 5 piece rawls, and some might be glued in. If Lucky is around perhaps he'll chime in, since I heard he's done quite a bit of hardware upgrading out there and knows far more on the subject than I do. Hangers tend to me a mixture of manufactured Fixe or Metolius and welded cold shuts. The bolts are sometimes in the matrix and sometimes in a large embedded cobble. We didn't encounter any loose bolts or alarming installations.

Oh, yeah. Bug's right, it's horrible. He didn't mention just how bad the poison ivy was everywhere. Hostile locals and vicious carp. I think I might have gotten sick from swimming in the lake.

I dunno, I just went on TR writing blitz that put a warm fuzzy glow on my Monday morning...

Trip: Fossil Rock - Date: 6/21/2008 Trip Report: Remarkably, though it lies just 20 miles from my house and I've known about it for probably 17 years, I'd never been to Fossil. Perhaps it was tales of chossy rock, drilled pockets, and bolt on holds that put me off, but between a one day climbing window, an interest in something different, and the high cost of gas, I horned in as a third person on cc.com posters Drederek and Logcabinfish Saturday outing and got a good tour. We did a long moderate as a sort of meet the rock outing, and I'll tell you, it's strange stuff. Cobble city, and some of the things you grab and stand on do not inspire confidence, but as the well worn nature of the trails suggest, these routes have seen some traffic and the holds have been tested and approved. The formations were interesting, and the vegetation somewhat unusual for the area, with lots of Madrone and poison oak lurking about, some large firs that had escaped the saw (I believe it is on Weyerhauser land), copious honeysuckle, and even a good sized yew tree. It was the rock that was most notable though. I've never really climbed on conglomerate before, unless you count the odd pebble pinching bit at Smith, and this stuff was a whole different ball of wax. The climbing was a lot of fun, and with a few routes I began to learn the language. While there are some smooth sections, for the most part you're never really at a loss for something to put your foot on. The climbing is all quite steep, often with a jutting cap section that tests just how much gas is left in the tank. Sometimes it doesn't matter how big the hold is if you can't hang on. At it's best, the stuff was downright stellar, and always fully engaging. One route featured a huge cleaver built out cobbles and matrix sticking straight out, and you wind up grabbing and then standing on top of this thing on the overhanging wall. Damned thing even vibrates, but Drederek assured me it wasn't any more scary or insecure than it was 16 years ago. Still, I wouldn't stand underneath it. We ranged about the crag, getting in 7 or 8 pitches and seeing one other climbing party. We closed out the day with a route on the west side, huge fir trees shading the route and keeping the temps pleasant, and a really lovely setting. Sure, I did see four bolt on holds, and a couple suspiciously tubular holds, but if I get on these 5.12's I suspect it won't be the engineering I'll be pissing and moaning about. Different rock, different crags, different rules. While I wouldn't recommend the area to Raindawg, I'll be back before too long. Big thanks to my partners for a great tour and day out. Gear Notes: It's sport climbing, and what cracks there are would provide questionable placements at best. Approach Notes: Park at the gated road off Bald Hills Road and bike in. Obvious gated spur on the right in a clearcut leads up hill, stay to the main track until it ends. A short trip down some single track leads to a boulder with a couple eyebolts glued in to lock the bikes to, and a short uphill trudge leads to the crag that crowns the hill.

Trip: Banks Lake - Date: 6/14/2008 Trip Report: Rob had asked the question "Where to climb in Leavenworth during Rockfest" in a different thread, and cc.com poster Miladugga and I found the clear answer to be "Banks Lake." With two warm days, Saturday in the upper 70's, Sunday in the low 80's, and a weekend without seeing a single other climber, it was just a stellar outing. I gotta say, "thanks Rockfest!" Leaving Olympia early Saturday morning, we set out to piece together a route up Highway Rock around 11am. The lake was a good foot and a half higher than the last time I'd been here, so the traverse into the highly recommended Aqualine on the west side waterline seemed to present a likely dousing. Not wanting to risk wet shoes for the day, we instead did Supprehension as a first pitch. From the upper anchor I lowered my partner down to the start of Aqualine so he could enjoy the pleasant arete. Schools of huge black sharks cruised the surface below him, though it's just possible that they were carp. We did Creamsicle Buttress for a second pitch, and it definitely doesn't merit the three stars LaBelle's guide gives it. Dirty third class, indifferently cleaned start, irritating open cold shut mid pitch anchor, bare studs from an earlier mid pitch anchor, gritty friction dishes that go "skritch skritch" all contribute to a somewhat ho-hum pitch, though it's nothing that a few hours with a brush, some tasteful pull-and-patch work, and 50 more ascents couldn't make better. We spent a little time at the nice grassy ledge at the top plotting out our next move. Some nice scrambling led up a hundred feet or so to the next tier, and we did Calanques for a third pitch. This was a great steep arete, delicate and well protected, and nice orange rock with great position. From the ledge you step right and instantly acquire an additional 100' of exposure. Deposited on another wide rock ledge, we walked over to the left side to climb Rashomon up the last tier. The views from the top were great, looking out to Steamboat Rock with the Prime Cut and The Men Of Banks Lake routes on the island in the foreground: And north to the cove area, with a variety of water access routes on the island and penninsula, as well as some great basking and swimming beaches. Note that the penninsula can be reached on foot, so those routes (some of which are covered in Whitelaw's Weekend Rock) can be done from the top by non-floating climbers. As an aside on boat climbing, last summer I did the Bass-o-matic out of a boat and found boat based climbing less charming than I had imagined. It was a little windy, and combined with wakes from boats and jet skis, the aluminum belay skiff would bonk back and forth against the crag with alarming vigor. The #1 friend it was tied off to wasn't a great anchor, and the thought of pulling a piece and hitting the deck meant smashing into the boat, not some tidy deepwater solo splash. My verdict on belay from the boat climbing: meh. We found a walk down from the top, and after getting back to the van we went for a refreshing dip in the lake and a little basking action. Renewed, we made the short approach back to the side of Highway Rock to climb Downtown, a fun easy climb with a spot of 5.10 thrown in on the traversing approach. A 5.6 leader could happily pendulum across this and have a good time. NOTE: the 4th bolt is loose and needs to be tightened with a wrench, as does one of the rap bolts off the left side of the big ledge above. Here's a bit of a rant: In several spots (mid pitch on Creamsicle and Downtown, very top of Highway Rock) we encountered brand new shiny open cold shut anchors. Did someone out there not get the memo that this jive is not really climbing hardware? It's a chain repair link, the rod meant to be driven through the eye and WELDED, not have some bolt put through the eye and hang ropes through the open hooks. I've seen these as anchors on hanging belays, and the damn things flex when people shift about. If you're out there installing these things, STOP IT. Use hangers with chain attached with a Rapide link instead. And another thing: we're climbing with longer ropes than ever, so why do pitches keep getting shorter? Mid pitch stations on 140' routes? What, an ugly station just so you don't have to drag up a second rope? On Downtown, the guide even mentions that it takes two ropes to get down. If you're out there installing these things, STOP IT. Jeezuz, it all makes me feel like Andy Rooney. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures from our second day, which we spent out by the Golf Course on a variety of face routes on excellent stone that was somewhat reminiscent of the City of Rocks. While LaBelle's guide states the main wall goes into shade at 10:30, I can assure you that this time of year it's more like 1:30. The tenuous nature of the trails here suggests that not many people climb there, but I'd highly recommend the routes on both the main wall and the two upper walls described in the guide. Of course, we ended the day with another dip and bask session, and a pleasant drive home. Great trip with a fun partner.

Trip: Tieton - The Bend & Goose Egg - Date: 5/24/2008 Trip Report: I finally downloaded the pictures from my camera, so here's a quick TR from Memorial Day weekend. As you'll recall, the weather was a wee bit dodgy, so after tossing various ideas about, cc.com poster DJ Dirty Ernie and I met at exit 68 on I-5 and headed east to the Tieton, which had the best forecast we could find. We spent the first couple of days at The Bend. I don't know that I've ever been to this crag without encountering at least one snake, and this time was no exception. There were actually two this size at the talus spot before the crag. Starting the day with the crag to ourselves, we did Ed's Jam, which neither of us had done before. Just a swell crack, and the upper bit is longer than it looks from the belay at the top of the short first pitch. The damp spring and late season meant the area was still quite lush, and whilst belaying I was quite taken with the verdant patch across the canyon, I'm more used to that sunny slope being burnt dry and brown. Over the course of the next two days we did a variety of moderate cracks and bear hugging column face climbs, mostly stuff over on the left side. I don't have the guide handy, but Alar was big fun, and there was a 10a finger crack above the first part of a 10b face climb on a broken pillar that was, uhm, super fun. We had a little rain on Sunday, and feeling a little weary we made for an afternoon matinee in Yakima. Saturday night we'd spent in one of the free spots along the south side of the river, and the area was more crowded than usual due to the holiday, with kayakers and quad riders clogging up our usual and accustomed. We had stayed at a pretty trashed party spot and spent 20 minutes cleaning up the garbage. Seems like people never fail to amaze me. Anyway, for Sunday night we decided to head up higher to spend the night just off a side road at the base of Goose Egg. Memorial day dawned with weather encouraging enough, so we cast off for Ride The Lightning. What with the attention it's gotten here recently, I'd halfway expected we'd see some others buzzing about the Outer Space of the Tieton, but happily we saw no others on the route, or even on the entire crag all day. Good thing too, since the potential for rockfall is not exaggerated. First pitch was long and entertaining. The 2nd pitch was most everything you'd hope for, including the swell crack in the corner and the exposed belay at the edge of the roof. There was tat in the middle of the first couple pitches that suggested others had bailed out with a single rope, though single bolt rappels aren't really my cup of tea. While there are a number of bolts on these first pitches, this route is most definitely not a sport climb. Dodgy rock demands a level of discretion and delicacy throughout the route, but little is truly alarming. The belay at pitch 2 isn't really set for rappelling, but halfway up pitch 3 there is a station that's clearly intended for the purpose. The guide mentions that this is the place to bail if the rock quality puts you off, but in fact I think you could rap from any of the higher stations as well, though from the 4th belay you'd bypass the single bolt+gear station of the 3rd to go to this station on the third pitch. Though short, the crack right above the 2nd belay was fun. The DJ isn't quite to the rap station in this picture. Next pitch is short and dirty, just as the guide suggests, and while not charming, it is not really a problem. The 5th pitch offers the runout on flaky rock to the first bolt, then up to the crux crack. While the moves were most reasonable, I really didn't care for the hollow sound made while removing cams from the crack above the bulge. I'd urge you not to fall from the position in this picture. Sure enough, I did get a little lost on the 6th pitch, traversing too far and winding up in a chossy gully with no gear, before climbing the left wall of the gully to get back on route to the belay. Here's a suggestion of the correct way to go: From the belay, traverse right with one piece of gear until you see two bolts above you. Head up the crack past these bolts, and don't fret over the stud with no hanger, there are several more good gear placements in the widening crack, which you'll follow until it pinches down. With long slings on your last couple pieces, traverse right following the most cleaned looking area, looking for where loose plates have been pried off. While runout, it's no big deal. If you wind up looking around the edge at the gully, don't be suckered in by the obvious footprint, but head back left and up to a crack which will lead you directly to a 2 bolt station (one of the bolts is a ways above the first, not super obvious). Last pitch is a bit of loose delicacy followed by amazing hollow clinky shifting talus. We walked across the top, happy to see the occasional cairn, until we found the obvious gully. One rap with slings around a tree partway to the ground makes for a decent descent. All in all, a good adventure route. Here's Goose Egg from across the meadow: Driving back over the pass we encountered a positively apocalyptic hail storm that stayed with us almost all the way to Packwood, where some big weekend wahoo involving Winnebagos and and tacky crap stalls was winding down. Here's a link to a big ass photostich of Ride The Lightning.

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Living on Australian time.

And what would you call trading trinkets for Manhattan or smallpox blankets? What about the heroin trade? There are plenty of rackets that are international in scope, and have been for centuries, and lots of them include lives in the cost. Don't get me wrong, I'm no fan of war as either solution or racket, but your quote (it is a quote from your source, right, not your writing?) sounds just a wee bit breathless.

Maybe McCain should take a tip from Bob Dole and become an erectile dysfunction spokesmodel.