ivan

it makes everyone happier if you just rap off the tree-ledge tree one more pithc up

just stopping on that ledge requires clairovoyance - there's old pins and bolts all over the place to make you want to go right there. i first climbed that route w/ layton shortly after moving out here and niether of us knew where the hell we were going - to this day i look around and can't figure out where we went go back and do dod's jam/dastardly crack - not quite as long and certainly harder but a similiar uber-classic feeling route leading to the trail

good luck staying on route after pitch 2.5 w/o a guide! a 70 meter is real nice too for the 4th pitch so you can stretch it all the way to the ridge/scramble off - skip everyother bolt and climb high as a kite for the geniune experience

posting this image all over the mutha-fawking inter-web oughta bring osama out of his dark hole real soon - i think in the interests on national security, to extract this cum-sucker, we should paste this picture everywhere - planes, over the statue of liberty, on politicians, on the side of the empire state building, etc. a line in the sand, as it were...

how 'bout monday or tuesday at beacon? gotta take advantage of the after-work special 'fore daylight savings fucks us...

how about this, i have on several occasions had gear come unclipped from my harness while climbing and thus join the Great Cosmic Booty Pool - i suppose this happened b/c i somehow contorted myself into a position that opened the gate and shifted the whole piece enough for everything, gear and biner to fall- i've seen this happent o several other folks too - would this kinda shit not happen if i clipped the other way? (usually have the gate facing out and at the top as it feels most natural thataways)

of all the threads i've read today, this is one of them

being from the south, i'm a fan of mountain names ending w/ "knob" - "beckey's knob" kicks the shit outta "beckey's horn"

this shouldn't be dismissed as a mere joke - my denali trip entirely hinged upon it, especially above 14k - my partner abstained and lost all motivation for life and became a little puss

is that prominent gendarme on beckey still there or has it fallen down forever?

oh yeah, regarding that ow crux - you can skip the crack pretty much entirely by doing a face more or two off to the right and going aroudn it

you need nothing bigger than #2 - take a very, very light rack - coupla nuts, 2-3 cams, a bunch of slings including some long ones no snow/ice gear necessary either - the glacier's dead

"crass exaggerations?" that muther-fucker had to be at least 3500 fucking feet and shaped like a bent-whale-pope dick

fun conditions currently - hordes present on saturday - the great and terrible iain was spotted - many thanks to brent from sisters who took the bitch spot on the rope but took many cool pictures of me n' oleg to piss off our wives - currently getting up into the middle icefall below the north face is cool - man, it's really melted out and changed in there in the past 4 years!

comparing fred to reagan - now who's shitting on this thread!?!

liberty - good idea mike - i fucking hate "liberty" anyway. fred peak sounds kinda lame though - mt. beckey's better? seems like one'a'ya boys who knows him can think of a more endearing moniker for his Holy Hill

Das Toof?

best to inquire as to conditions a week or so 'fore you come out as it can vary widely year to year. past few years driving to cloud cap was out by early december going up the n side and down the s is fun - about 1 hr or less from t-line p-lot back to the n side. doing the whole thing as a day climb is simplest, 'specially if descending the s side. tie in rock is not a great camp for doing the n face as it might be difficult to get down to the base of the route, especially in the dark. if you got the time, instead of doing a bunch of camping try to do a few more hood classics - linking up the n face w/ the reid or sandy headwalls would make the long trip more rewarding - if you can roll w/ light bivy gear climbing the n side, then bivying at illumination sadle, then doing the reid or sandy and descending back to camp/t-line would be cool.

word

sounds like it would be perfect for you jens! and no i haven't...

i'm jealous - i want to be hated this much too! as it is, i can only inspire 150 teenagers a year to loath me...

how'd you do the gendarme in one pitch w/ one rope w/o getting godawful rope drag? seems like you have to go way sidewise on top of the perch - a delightfully long pitch for sure

i'll believe it when i see it - the status quo of me not paying and usually not getting ticketed has been bearable, but it'd be nice to see parks getting the funding they need from my taxes instead of the fawk'n sand-people