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Everything posted by ivan
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but hopefully she'll already be married, and thus no longer my responsibilty wait - grandkids - dammit!
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14, eh? that there is my clieeeee-ntelle. female, too? wow. every word's a lie. every one. 'cept maybe when they rarely fess up to lying i'm hoping my daughter goes strait from 3 to 30
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i'd be frightened of any procedure that yields not a single google-hit now, "blow me three ways to sunday" - there's a prize-winner
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i've never experienced any sort of big line on yw in the years i've been dig'n on the Big B - while the all-sporto nature of the first pitch encourages some to gum it up by top-roping it, the ass-pucker-effect of the butt-hole pitch seems to keep the minimally-competent away - plus, there's so many other fine routes to do out there that even if yw is gett'n gang'banged, you can find equally pleasant diversions...
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i'm already binge-drinking to get my liver up to speed i'm too cool to read this whole thread - has steve the beer god pledged to provide the sweet, sweet heavenly nectar or do i need to import pabst blue piss?
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and the last rule: if this is your first time to beacon club, you have to climb young warriors!
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just the upper pitches - the awe-inspiring looseness of the butt-hole will probably forever constrain my stupidity
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you criiiied at their wedding - dude! i didn't cry at my own wedding until i thought we ran out of newcastle, and then i rememebered the guiness and cheered up...
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holy shit - went out to do yw and take photos of every 5 meters of rock for the mother of all panaromics y-day and discovered what slothrop was saying 'bout the new belay - man, a fella can really rest his ass on some sweet spongy moss lining perfect benches at the base now - gonna make there at the end of the day far more leisurely - good to see that all that rock that was trundled down was put to good use
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wtf? young warriors is in the olson guide. certainly there's no decent description, but then neither's slothrop's tr (no offense, slothrop )
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so much for sarcasm...
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it makes everyone happier if you just rap off the tree-ledge tree one more pithc up
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just stopping on that ledge requires clairovoyance - there's old pins and bolts all over the place to make you want to go right there. i first climbed that route w/ layton shortly after moving out here and niether of us knew where the hell we were going - to this day i look around and can't figure out where we went go back and do dod's jam/dastardly crack - not quite as long and certainly harder but a similiar uber-classic feeling route leading to the trail
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good luck staying on route after pitch 2.5 w/o a guide! a 70 meter is real nice too for the 4th pitch so you can stretch it all the way to the ridge/scramble off - skip everyother bolt and climb high as a kite for the geniune experience
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posting this image all over the mutha-fawking inter-web oughta bring osama out of his dark hole real soon - i think in the interests on national security, to extract this cum-sucker, we should paste this picture everywhere - planes, over the statue of liberty, on politicians, on the side of the empire state building, etc. a line in the sand, as it were...
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how 'bout monday or tuesday at beacon? gotta take advantage of the after-work special 'fore daylight savings fucks us...
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[TR] Whitehorse Mtn- Northwest Shoulder 9/17/2006
ivan replied to SmilingWhiteKnuckles's topic in North Cascades
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how about this, i have on several occasions had gear come unclipped from my harness while climbing and thus join the Great Cosmic Booty Pool - i suppose this happened b/c i somehow contorted myself into a position that opened the gate and shifted the whole piece enough for everything, gear and biner to fall- i've seen this happent o several other folks too - would this kinda shit not happen if i clipped the other way? (usually have the gate facing out and at the top as it feels most natural thataways)
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of all the threads i've read today, this is one of them
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being from the south, i'm a fan of mountain names ending w/ "knob" - "beckey's knob" kicks the shit outta "beckey's horn"
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this shouldn't be dismissed as a mere joke - my denali trip entirely hinged upon it, especially above 14k - my partner abstained and lost all motivation for life and became a little puss
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is that prominent gendarme on beckey still there or has it fallen down forever?
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oh yeah, regarding that ow crux - you can skip the crack pretty much entirely by doing a face more or two off to the right and going aroudn it
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you need nothing bigger than #2 - take a very, very light rack - coupla nuts, 2-3 cams, a bunch of slings including some long ones no snow/ice gear necessary either - the glacier's dead
