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Everything posted by ivan
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while rapping the flying dutchman last night discovered 2 pins buried under grass and ferns, and just a little bit up from the 1st anchor, where i'd wimped out on saturday - damn! makes the whole lower part of that pitch, which is the thinest, much more reasonable - i was too terrifed of whipping onto a micronut to keep going 2nd times the charm! and did bluebird last night - a very fun crack w/ a cool detached pillar for the first bit - i was kinda sad when it went away...
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i'll be looking for you too! bring a rope!
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cool - will be looking for you joe - sounds like fargo might be ill and won't show up anyhow...we should do that flying swallow pitch!
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for some reason i've having a hard time getting my wife to watch more than 2 minutes of it... i haven't seen enough to have a real strong opinion yet, but so far i think i'm liking his civil war series better - they're different beasts to be certain, but i prefer the narrator more in the older show as there's more dramatis to his voice looking forward to watchign the whole thing w/ my history of war class! but can a room full of teenage boys possibly keep their attention so narrowly focused for 14hrs???
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will be there around 3 joe - meeting up w/ fargo around 430 but could do somethign w/ you 'fore then?
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i thought the cafe sensitivo was where i could fully express myself and my forbidden desires?
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nice read - congrats all you cascade dudes i know
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coulior never fails to make me feel happy in my bathroom places
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tuesday's the only day i can climb this week after school - anyone interested?
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Who is the savage slav? oleg the obstreperous - he fell on that exit crack out of the amphitheatre, the one w/ a big z-pin in it - didn't see how it happened, but in the process that giant block went bouncing down - luckily i was well out of the way but i was reaaaal nervous for anyone on the ground (ya'll musta come by after we'd gotten above grassy ledge, the coast was clear till then) the amphitheatre is a wild place - there's a really cool looking offwidth on the far left side which i started to do, then noticed the thousands of pounds of crumbling ledges that lie just below and to the side of it... again - highly recommend that upper pitch of flying swallow, the position, crack and exposure are phenomonal -it's my new favorite - you can easily rap down to it from the far side of grassy ledges and skip the aid pitch of flight time - maybe take a wire brush and scrub FT while you're down there?
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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
ivan replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
any other useful tidbits for the titillated wannabe-adventurist? i've yet to be able to even discern from beacon yet - probably an advanced effect of inhaling turkey-vulture pestilence there... -
wasn't me that almost killed you - it was a large rock cast off by a savage slav - good enough reason to stay out of the amphitheatre, i reckon - there's tons of loose shit in there - sorry to get you boys all excited - do i need to buy anyone new underwear? good reminder that hanging out at the base of beacon ain't exactly safe...
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Trip: beacon rawk - flyn'dutchman//flight-time/f'n-swallow/dod'melange Date: 9/22/2007 Trip Report: tooled around w/ oleg the obstreperous today we'd aspirations of taking flying dutchman all the way to grassy ledges, but reaching the first anchor squashed those ambitions - looks like .11+ free climbing from there w/ just pins or loweballs for pro for at least the first 50 feet - wish i was that cool - i tried to salvage it by tensioning over and climbing the upper bit of bears'n'heat but after frenching just 10 feet realized how stupid that idea was too...a little tomfoolery later back at the belay and lowered back down to the ground marched over for another sharp kick in the nads to base of dodds/reasonablerichard/localaccess - we'd climbed the later 2 recently so i checked out the blackmaria/dod's bypass approach to the anchors below fly'n'circus - a titillating experience, much more alpinish, traversing sideways across dirty, sketchy, moderate terrain - i got to lead the next pitch of flight-time too - doesn't appear to have been seeing much travel - heavily lichenated and overgrown w/ grass and brush, but all the fixed pins and bolt are good and capable of supporting my phat ass, as i freed very little of the line up to the next anchor where flying swallow joins - the upper pitch is fucking sublime! staying left into flight time was obviously stupid and woulda needed the full aid meal-deal for me - big brush in the crack and very hard climbing - we did the next bit of flying swallow whihc was fantastic - 10b in a thin crack but w/ great stemming out on the very edge of the left-arete eventually collascing into a 4" offwidth w/ fantastic airy knobs to step on - ends at a ledge just 30 feet below grassy ledges, and oleg enjoyed that, but not until falling repeatedly at the top - big mistake here was checking the clock (400 - not late enough yet for the safety meeting, and only 3 hrs till i gotz ta be back in the krib) and deciding to take the only honest chimney i think i've climbed at beacon up into the amphitheatre beside the norseman's head - should just hiked over ta The Ledge and lived like mortals do - but the ampthitheatere instead, what a fucktacular place! - brushy, rotten, vulture-shit-complete-w/mouse-fur-n-bonepaste bespackled slimerock - smithrockesque ad nauseum - the highlight of this stage was oleg falling on the steep exit crack and kicking off a 400 lb meteorite which could very well have killed every hardman pdxer out courting freefirsum - i was only half-horrified at the time - they shall live to chalk up again my one great dread is that the poison oak did the celluar-chemical-fuckee-fuckee to me again as i woefully wallowed back towards the hiking trail - the hate-fuck-bush was all over the place on either side as i recited my mantra - some day there will be a reckoning... and it's a hard, it's a hard, it's a hard - it's a hard rain's...
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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
ivan replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
intriguing - where's the access point? i'm interested in any adventure currently that's close to my house and doesn't involve my skin becoming reminscent of night of the living fucking dead -
Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
ivan replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
how hopelessly covered in poison oak do you think it is? -
where were you yesterday beyotch!?! gotta go babysit this afternoon to earn my kitchen pass for climbing all day saturday... how about next monday? tuesday? oh, and i can't lead beacon 10s either...but i do
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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
ivan replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
duh...guess i am LOOKING towards the north-east in that picture though... -
i've yet to find anybody for saturday - watcha think?
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currently i'm in favoring of destroying all plant life on earth if only to eliminate the poison oak - what a throughly fucking evil plant...
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bummer the 'roids have been great for preventing the initial rash from turning into the horror-show of oozing n' bubbling that i usually get from oak, but i still am covered w/ itchy patches - and the interaction of steroids, benedryl n' scratching leaves my head spinning...
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Revision three of the Portland rock guide.
ivan replied to Jeepenfool95's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
that pic looks up the north east face, yes? -
gotta do something to distract meself from scratching poison oak blisters... i'm off at 240...
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covered myself from head to toe in poison oak - I AM FREAKING OUT RIGHT NOW!!!
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is it me or is it missing the damn toothpick?