ivan

so how did you get the far out shots then? did you know home boy w/ the tele-photo lens?

a car is potentially a deadly weapon - they must all be registered, no?

why does this make me want to climb in the valley so much?

that didn't work out well for ANY of us

not that i'd pick hairs w/ you pat (see my new TR - look some fucks on this board DID climb 2day!) - but isn't this sentence the very example of the word "tautology?" not that the declaration of independence itself isn't bereft of such tautologies: "we hold these truths to be self-evident: that all men are created equal" i mean like, hello, have you SEEN me in the shower?

not that i'd pick hairs w/ you pat (see my new TR - look some fucks on this board DID climb 2day!) - but isn't this sentence the very example of the word "tautology?"

walter peck - classic bad-guy in all movies - "real genius"!

i thought it was chris rock! hey, this conversation would have a lot more clarity if bill and the other so-regretably-labeled "gun-nuts" would answer the basic question: what weapons (if any) are you willing to allow the state to ban/restrict? surely you can understand why even non-liberals can't accept "none" right?

the crack to nowhere goes up the right side of the giant roof, center-frame and right of my red-etriers and stops at anchors about half-way between me and the roof - this is an independent line from both smooth dancer (right) and takes fist (left) and deserves it's own individual finish, which'll have to be aid until one of you mega-hardmen can free it (but you'll still need at least 3 bolts!) the roof/crack right of the hanging ledge on p1 of takes fist heading to the largest shaded roof

"god's will my leige! would you and i alone w/o more help could fight this royal battle!"

and on the anniversary of agincourt no goddamn less!!! oh my fucking god niggas, turn up the fucking volume on this and rock the fuck out!!!!! [video:youtube]

meant to add, from the top anchor (which is very solid) you can conceivably climb strait over into the upper half of the last pitch of takes fist, but that would be silly since it'd be much more direct to just do the standard version of that climb - this climb gives you a beautiful vantage to right for "smooth dancer," a much neglected 5.9 A2 that's in the book but hasn't been done it woudl appear in several decades and is now on my mofo'n radar - will require pretty serious gardening tools up high though) - however, from the anchor, you can not get into smooth dancer, that will have to be approached from a different start which no doubt will be a big adventure in itself in current conditions)

Trip: Beacon RaWkS! - The Crack 2 Nowhere AKA Eggz 5.8 C1 Date: 10/25/2008 Trip Report: no pictures so you gotta settle for the song that's been in my head for days - even my kids have learned it! [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYFK1R-wUwg so this climb exists as a # and a blank line in the olson guide (#92 in the 2001 revised edition) - jim opdycke said "some kid" put it up "a good long while ago" and that "there'll probably be bolt anchors" - having been in the area a bunch lately, i was intrigued - no doubt "the kid" by now has lost all his goddamn hair (was it YOU, bill?) but the route remains and is absofaqh'nlutely stellar - i'm naming it to the most descriptive thing possible "the crack to nowhere" - i want to put in the paperwork to The Man so i can place a shortish aid ladder above and call it "utopia" since that means "nowhere" and that's where the crack below leads anyhow - if anybody can free the ladder (its a2 to get to where i'd place 5-6 bolts), it'd be an arete climb and somewhere in the .11s i'd imagine and wicked cool - they could call the free version "bacon" and, assuming they freed the lower crack too, that can be "eggs" - geoff was saying it's about goddamn time some route at beacon was called bacon, and that seemed pretty wise to me so, climb the first pitch of takes fist (joe's got a fixed line hanging on it now, and geoff n' me jugged that ghetto style (we had 1 jumar between us) after warming up on young warriors, where g-dog nailed his first leads of p2 and p4) - i felt content to jug the line instead of free the first pitch as these fall days are getting short and that first pitch takes some serious thought (plus i've lead it twice in the past month, so let's just take this as read, shall we?) - from the top of the fixed line, i climbed up to the base of the first roof (for takes fist) and had a blast aiding sideways for the 20 feet of so required to bust through the mother of all fucking awesome fist cracks that one roof to the right) - the horizontal crack under the roof is exciting and fresh and leads to an exhilarating crack up to the 3/8 inch anchor bolts another 50 feet up - the vertical crack is overhanging in spots, consistently 2-3 inches wide and in a mind-bendingly cool setting, just a wee bit below the far end of grassy ledges (if the aid pitch goes in above, it'll dump you right out at riverside, and you could take that up to the trail for a brilliant alpine-style grade III+ ascent.) so - awesome goddamn day - better yet i get home and the kids are all out partying so i have time to set down this delicious diatribe, this ponderous phillipic - nate, i'm calling you out - you'll dig it the most baby! my gear requisites below. Gear Notes: (just for the crack 2 nowhere) aiders a couple small nuts 2 .5, #1, #3 camelots and yellow aliens 3-4 #2 camelots 1 green alien and .75 camelot (for the eventual "nowhere AKA bacon") brass nuts hooks (birdbeaks?) couple kniveblades bolt kit - someone wanna lend me a handdrill so i can keep jim's park pure? Approach Notes: watch out for snarling dogs, andean walking-tourists, and as always The Big Hairy Eyeball

what he said the next time i'm after it though i'll be skipping the first gendarme and just going strait for the by-pass

Should your idea apply to the First Amendment too? how do you mean? like not letting janet jackson whip out her titties on tv or howard stern using poo-poo language on the radio?

dude, this was like so 5 seconds ago...

A positive side to global warming for us mountain climbers

having taught in the ghettoes for a buncha years, i can say pretty much everyone there already has one

cool - next time then - beacon's a fantastic experience, especially when you take it all the way to the top

this has been my solution for a long time - the funny thing is that they still go through the same routine, you're just totally oblvious to it

my solution's always been just ban everything BUT 2nd-amendment-origin-era muskets - you still get your militia, you still get your hunting, you still get your home defense, you still get your carry permit - if you take on you whole high school alone though, you're going down (we might want to ban bayonents though )

wasn't this somebody's comedy routine?

a question for you bill: what, if any, weapons should americans be restricted from possessing?

so'd you get out?

so....the plan for n face climbs this year: step 1: dismantle sign step 2: climb n face step 3: resist powerful urge to spray about accomplishment