crampons arent' always needed, especially if you have beta on how to avoid them - for serp arete on dragontail, for example, pick up a rock at the top of the moraine and use it as an axe and to chop steps for the 40 feet of steepish snow to get on rock if you get nervous there - then, if it seems too icy on the decent, take the rap line from the summit that dumps you onto the flats of the glacier