-
Posts
18026 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by ivan
-
covered in tubby hobo blood w/ a hint of coke on it's tip?
-
you should update that thread, old boy - a story w/ a post-script is to be savored....how u doin?
-
[TR] Mt Hood - Cooper Spur via Newton Glacier 6/4/2017
ivan replied to bonathanjarrett's topic in Oregon Cascades
the remotish approach from the n side is at least half of what makes this route cool (not to detract from the OP) - this time of year is kinda, when the cloud cap road is closed, perfect - one day of appraoch via tilly-jane to a sweet, lonely camp high up on the spur - then a cool solo ascent to a suddenly crowded summit, followed by another long, lonely descent to home... the north side is magical, though the crowded insanity of the s side certainly has it virtues -
perhaps "covfefe" was the more accurate noun?
-
besides, simul rapping cuts into the time i get to enjoy smoking butts n' contemplating the scenery (plus sticking my buddy w/ the hassle of sorting out the inevitable rope-snarls below )
-
one has only to stand at the lake and look up there to realize it's not a trivial descent - jeebus, i remember one very sad n' tired n' dark night we ended up stupidly descending to the edge of that giant cliff and almost convincing ourselves there was some sorta way of down-climbing it b/c we were too whupped to contemplate walking all that way back uphill to find where we'd gone wrong
-
x2, though managed not to break anything experienced a total anchor failure once too, well off the ground, while connected to a haulbag i was hauling on, and should have been killed by that - still boggles my mind we walked away from that one... watched my buddy once, 1000 feet up el cap, almost rap off the long tail ends of a euro-death knot as well - we laughed at the time, but jeebus knitting is probably less dangerous
-
congrats - a magic route i did the exact same weekend 13 years ago now i think - the real adventure came after we got down the emmons
-
fucking-a-right - in some scenarios i guess it makes sense, but descending a glorified sport route i don't see why unless i'm imagining this wrongly, whoever was on the other end of the simul-rap was damned fortunate to be on the lucky side, as otherwise he would have fallen to his death too, no?
-
wise sir do not grieve for every one of us living in this world means waiting for our end let he who can achieve glory before death when a warrior is gone that will be his best and only bulwark
-
pretty hard to do those things in doors though...
-
i prefer my bands to be rubber
-
first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Southern WA Cascades
memorial day weekend 2017 - trip 15 - what better way to honor the deeds of the war dead than to meet a similar demise in the pursuit of demented distraction? 2 full fucking years we've been brewing on this damn thing now, and goddamn-it-all if it ain't gonna take 2 more at this rate the steel highway's all connected now, bolts glimmering in the vernal sun, all that's needing is at least one complete pair of testicles and 3 days to see it all done - we managed to get half that forumula right this time, but the other firfuksakes continues to ellude us...sigh... bill n' geoff at my door on a friday afternoon, us all fulla vim n' vigor, the lovely sun pounding down n' a perfect forecast - it's become a real old ritual now, one i quite enjoy - lucille all loaded up w/ liquor n' war gear n' headed north down the proud highway, the talk all of politics and preternatural predilections - not one of us worried about the woe waiting for us just a few miles off in the wings of those shaded woods the forest road a bit more claustrophobic than memory served, but trimmers n' time-to-kill sorted that all out soon skeeters n' evening wedder too sultry to light a fire, we sit n' guffaw n' what-not until the needs of tomorrow carry us off to the sandman's necessity saturday morning a bit of a problem - ole'kyle was in theory to join us to make light-work of this heavy task before us, but the probability of him arriving early were long - it wouldn't have mattered but geoff had left his shoes behind in portland, meaning he had just a pair of loafers for the big ascent, leaving us rather dependent on kyle's arrival after some beers n' bullshitting n' a bitchy shit, bill n' i grew despondent and wandered up the hill alone to fix the first 2 pitches and see what happened next turned out to be nothing - we did our duty in swift time, then rapped back down, me pausing in the talus to quaff my beers n' comment on the awful import of the numerous large-caliber rockfalls that had transpired since last we'd passed this way back down at the car it was after noon now and still no kyle, so we rambled back to randle in search of signal and serious answers after a bit of bad noise, it was clear that kyle was a lost cause, presenting us w/ the necessity of acquiring real civilization if we were to get geoff properly foot-clad for sunday's big effort i sang n' drank, all laid out on the back deck, as the miles rolled by and eventually closed my eyes and knew Such Lovely Things - woke up in a payless parking lot along the interstate with a smile, made brighter by a pair of cheeseburgers n' not diminished a bit when i attempted to give navigational instructions only to learn i was nowhere near where i thought i was back in the woods we had another night like the first - informal comedy n' the careless way that comes w/ abiding in an arboreal cloister - the view of tower was tremendous and hopes soared, the summit holding the sun until 9 pm, and light enough to read by until damn near 10 - sure, there were 12 pitches left to do, but it'll go, right? rising near 5 a.m. wasn't too hard, the world as light as need be - we were off soon after w/ high, high hopes, the plan being ole'busted'shoulder'bill to accompany us n' enjoy the views at the base, then later to meet us on top of tower w/ words of encouragement and fresh beers the first 2 jugs went quick n' geoff rolled out on p3 - that pitch ended up depressing me last fall, and it had much the same effect on him now - it's loooong and steep and the occasional hooking helps prevent a steady rhythm from being established 2 hrs later, still early, i was off on p4, and it went very quickly indeed - while geoff cursed n' grumbled to follow it, i started short-fixing up p5, but was eventually stalled by a cluster-fuck in the lead line, forcing me to pause in an awkward place n' scorch in the near-summer sun, waiting for our boy to arrive i finished 5, losing steam as i went, half sun-stroked n' pissed that one of my adjustable daisies was no longer functioning - still, i felt good, despite realizing i was lower on water than was right and i'd left all my food in the haulbag at the base - i thought we had it all the same geoff hoved into view below and his face told me all i need to know long before my least-favorite-words-in-the-world were spoke "i don't know dude" ah well, there's always next summer on the positive side of things, the retreat from there is well proven to be easy enough now, especially when using 2 70 meter ropes - the fixed line on p6-7 still looks good, despite 2 years of exposure and above 5, it's all bolts and no hooks, w/ several lower angle pitches, so it'll go fast maybe the 16th time will be the charm? -
[TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017
ivan replied to Alex789's topic in Oregon Cascades
-
wedder godz permitting
-
-
remember kids, if you can't beat'em, at least try to hurt'em
-
i'd dig it...but i got smith plans already kee-rist, was out there the other day just for some hiking and the whole base area is crazy - most be about 300 meters worth of police-line tape strung up in all the trees... pretty certain it's still only seen one solo ascent so far, if'n yer looking to make history would dig on goign back there another weekend if you want...
-
wise sir do not grieve for every one of us living in this world means waiting for our end let he who can achieve glory before death when a warrior is gone that will be his best and only bulwark
-
answers: 1. no 2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe) 3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes 4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or
-
chartered accountants talking about chartered accountancy?