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Everything posted by ivan
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the diamond story could use some elaboration as i've no idea what happened?
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nice concept - slogging all the way to the base of the n face of hood w/ nastia n' nick n' getting turned back by an uncrossable 'shrund (though not till after both nick and i had tried n' failed, n' nastia had plunged into the abysss while i had her on a shoulder belay ) - ferrying 6 metric tons of bullshit to the base of the zodiac on el cap and climbing the first two pitches only for a certain un-named partner to discover he no longer had the time nor inclination to continue the ascent - doing the big approach to mt berge w/ tvashie on the labor day weekend only to be scuttled by arctic cold n' high winds when, dipshits that we were, we'd only brought light bags, no tent, and little by way of warm clothes...the wind kept us shivering and i couldn't hardly keep my damn smokes lit - my revenge on stein's pillar ruined by an emergency apendectomy
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the brush at the base of index n face is fuckign out of control!
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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Ski 1/6/2013
ivan replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
fucking. skiers. -
Mammut wants permanently placed quickdraws to go.
ivan replied to CoffeeBiner's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
the railroad spikes in index oughta be good for several more millenia as well -
Mammut wants permanently placed quickdraws to go.
ivan replied to CoffeeBiner's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
except that #4 on the gendarme pitch of stuart - that thing will be there even after the earth is swallowed by a red giant -
interesting, the article says it thrives up to 6000 feet, yet i can't recall seeing it in the n cascades at all, 'cept on the drive through the lowlands gettign there? devil's club just too badass for it?
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jesus, that's a rock worth climbing on?
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[TR] Little Tahoma - West Ridge 1/1/1980
ivan replied to Matt Christensen's topic in Mount Rainier NP
jesus, i'd be amazed if l'il tahoma is still there in a 1000 years - seems to be falling apart as quickly as sir isaac newton will allow! btw, hope none of my extraordinarly witty humor makes it seem like i doubted or hated on the accomplishment - you old boyz drank motor oil in place of gatorade -
[TR] Little Tahoma - West Ridge 1/1/1980
ivan replied to Matt Christensen's topic in Mount Rainier NP
looks fun - this near the start? -
Mammut wants permanently placed quickdraws to go.
ivan replied to CoffeeBiner's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
just make'em out of mithril -
holy shit, some one sold out the bacon wand
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[TR] Little Tahoma - West Ridge 1/1/1980
ivan replied to Matt Christensen's topic in Mount Rainier NP
pics or it didn't happen! -
why would i booty a jacket that wouldn't have fit me when i was 12?
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[TR] Cape Horn - Half-Cocked Who-Da-Phuck-Knows-What? 1/5/2013
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Columbia River Gorge
don't think this is in the oregon rock guide's ice section, though it seems to have everything else on cape horn? hard to say, as i don't have a giant magnifying class to sort out them teeny-tiny pictures -
top-rope gorge-wanking in high-winds n' warmish-wedder, just under the 14 at cape horn
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Trip: Cape Horn - Half-Cocked Who-Da-Phuck-Knows-What? Date: 1/5/2013 Trip Report: awake at the half-glow - hung over and horror-struck - is saturday so throughly fucked up already? grey n' gloomy n' not all that cold - stumbled down stairs to pack and pick through the carcass of last nights supper to suss out provisions for the day a quick transit through the cow-fields of fair-camas - miker n' beaconben at the cusp of a crepuscular dawn - crap stowed away n' we cast off w/ a 2nd-case plan, though hardly to washougal n' we realized half the kit was left behind n' we circled back for comfort gear that would never get used through the gorge in the grey - big circles by cape horn as we closed in on the bitch - a hundred yards west before the classic photo-shot, the parking spot just before the "narrow bridge" sign - many minutes of shifting shit n' setting it all out straight - we put a fixed line in to facilitate the way from road to bridge base this spot is sweet - set well under the road - the sole bummer having to lower the climber on 2 ropes tied together n' passing the knot at the proper spot, well out of voice, w/o complaints road pillars are bomber, right? if only i had a kayak, that cunt was going down today... a fine roof of road - we lowered the Old Boy of the Hour down - a shot a few meters below... an Army of Three, there was plenty of time to set up w/ feet-up, ensconced in down n' fleece, sipping down piping hot cider - thank krist there was no tobacco to waste the healthiness of the situation being lowered down for my date w/ bare-assed fate a few hours spent in riotous gallivant - 2 laps a piece undercover of a grand ceiling of grey concrete - holy shit a great place for gorge icemaitiring! flat - calm - room to stack shit - no matter how meager the ice da wedder has to offer! you lower down 100+ meters to get the whole experience - me here just 20 meters below the anchor from the road looking on down great times - grins n' gawdamns - the cops showed up of course, but in the wake of i502 nothing more than big gob-glows to greet them with! no worries, just weak-ass mofo's below worrying about us having too much fun...they'd been hollering up at us for awhile, insensible through the shrieking wind strong recommendation for gorge conditions like this - no need to lead - out of the elements - simple parking n' approach - calm n' cool - call it WI2/2+? HAWTDAMN!!! Gear Notes: a couple long runners for the concrete pillar - a 40 meter rope to set up the fixed line from the rope to the anchor, if you want Approach Notes: 100 meters west of the photo-spot at cape horn - at the pullout just before the "narrow bridge" sign - down to the edge, over the guardrail, than down n'along the way for about 30 meters before getting under cover and where you can set up the anchor on the pillar holding up route 14
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sounds like you started rapping off the railing about 1/2 way up, right where the trail turns back left n' heads towards endless switchbacks?
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good tr'ing had on cape horn ice today
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holy shit i look 20 years younger there ice-climbing in the gorge today girl n' thinking of you - pat over here no less
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yup, no need 4 nothing more than da power of chairman-mao thought there
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2013 we get the ne butt of j'berg, devushka? drag along pat or josh for the Complete Party Xperience?
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yes - me! any day, this time of year, regardless the forecast, assume nuking winds - all that really changes is the temp and the extent of precip cool regardless - what did you rap? south side or north? 3 distinct rap lines off the beatard monolith
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[TR] Mt. Hood - north face right gully 1/2/2013
ivan replied to christophbenells's topic in Oregon Cascades
did you descend the n or s side?
