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                Posts18027
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Everything posted by ivan
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	keep yer kawk hard n' yer powder(hound) dry, and the world will turn
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	  [TR] Left Kindle at Boston Basin Upper Camp (6500' aprx - 8/20/2013ivan replied to PandaExpress's topic in Lost and Found aren't paperback copies of moby dick lighter than the digital ones? oughta make a fine find for future alien archealogists to puzzle over in addition to the helmet and windshirt i lost in the same area
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	8/20 - day 21 - beaconben at the b.k. past dawn - lonely morning at beacon, the rock to ourselves - dodd's jam to big ledge, then ben did a tr-lap on blood, sweat n' jizzum as i wallowed in bird-filth (do them damned peregrines suffer from perrenial bladder infections or do they just binge'n'purge on peptobismal? the pink-hue to their ubiquitous turds is disconcerting)- topped out to trail on dastardly, then a run to the skamania mart for burritos n' beacon-rock brand beer - beerz in the shade by the boat-ramp, then back to the rock for a hybrid corner/warriors lap - international bring-yer-hawt-girlfriend to the crag day, w/ a saucy-shiela the lady in question along w/ her aussie-blokefriend - the boyfriend and our respective wives being but 3 obstacles in our path to awesomeness, that and i suppose also my plug-ugliness and the fact that ole'ben's so gawd-damned raytarded if he get's dropped on his head one more time he'll be eating applesauce from plastic spoons the rest of his life phrase of the day, from the burrito ingredients: "intensified soy oil" first i've seen of the elk today - them high-lonesome fuck-me-now bugles but days away
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	  [TR] Seven Fingered Jack (7FJ) - SW Slope 8/18/2013ivan replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades i'm still not certain if i even want to take my young'uns anywhere near a real mountain as they still keep finding novel ones to get themselves hurt just around the damn house how young were your 2 pardners on this trip?
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	what happened? leader fall? rockfall? encounter w/ local meth-life?
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	bummer. but did they saw through your gas-tank too like they did mine?
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	  [TR] Chianti Spire - East Face - Rebel Yell 7/27/2013ivan replied to BootsandPants's topic in North Cascades get'yer'yell'on! [video:youtube]
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	best of luck - the menagerie is a cool place and it's nutty that it stays closed longer than beacon - were it closer, i'd spend more time there.
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	yes and yes course, it's always a bit sketch to trust a fixed line you didn't place with anchors you can't see as you describe though, you're not really actively using the line, just counting on it in an emergency
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	rape-van minus the blacked-out windows?
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	can you summarize the above please, as i'm interested but lack the necessary attention span to wade through it?
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	spent 2 weeks on the oregon coast this summer and found fun stuff to clamber on at seal rock and the bandon beach 'round face rock (buncha stuff in bandon w/ top rope anchors already in place - only half-rusted through )
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	there are people who live in vw vans that DON'T drink nor drug?!?
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	i'm a lame outdoorsman who buckles at he first prospect of running out of any of the drugs my dear civilization churns out in copious quantities
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	  Best Alpine Climb around Seattle/Portland in Septivan replied to legrigri's topic in Climber's Board from portland area, the se corner on beacon rock is, as mentioned, a great option (plus there are several other routes on the crag that are moderate and excellent) - 3 hours south lies the incredible wolf rock, which has some great easy routes like tyler's morgul vale and is alpinish (certainly far off the beaten path, very tall, and featuring a stimulating descent) for a cool adventure, you might consider the deadhorse cave near mt adams too - some decent beta in here along w/ a lotta bullshit http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1042666
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	  [TR] Goode slam via Silent Lakes Jul 25-30 - 7/25/2013ivan replied to TobiasT's topic in North Cascades 
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	MP 147 to 157. Wa pass remains accessible from the E.
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	It means they don't know how long it will take to fix it yet, cuz it just happened. Either that, or SR 20 promises to be JUST LIKE GREECE AND DETROIT!!!!!
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	Closed indefinitely due to 8 impressive mud/rock slides near Swamp Creek that have completely buried the road.
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	Fake Ivan here. Moving to a smaller dia rope may affect your emergency ascension system. Tiblocs are rated for 8 - 11mm, for example. I've gotten them to work on a 7.8, but never actually used them for real on one. Best to test this at home. I can tell you that a 5.5mm prusik doesn't work at all on a doubled 7mm rap rope. It's nearly impossible to move the knot up once tightened. This was testing trying to get out of a schrund. I finally just had to free the damn thing.
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	Well you have to have someone hold the line back while you swing. only took one swipe to figure that
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	the fixed line is a sad obstacle for the greater glory of Reaching the Columbia nice n' rumbly and some big splashes coming down as we were leaving this afternoon...
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	8/10 - XX pro anno diem - whiskey-sick at 7 a.m. - rough roll out of bed, down the steps and out the door - pat snoring on the couch - did i really smoke my fist-full of smokes in 30 minutes last night? geoff @ the b.k. - cruis'n n' warriors n' right gull - choppers landing on the wildlife reserve, ferrying in fucking wind-boarders - dick synonym for the day: "snatch-ratchet" - long drives off the land of the little people, thank you mysterious stranger - old larry for fucks sake rapping in for an evening alone - pbr's n' passing showers on the way back
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	Tvash's rope is still dangling from a flake on the bottom pitch of that route.

