Alpinfox

Just curious: when was Avenging the Goddess Kring cleaned? I climbed it as recently as about a year ago and it seemed pretty clean at the time. Awesome route BTW. Thanks to all the cleaners!

So you haven't met Jake then.

I (almost) always carry an off-belay device. I heard you like to have a big wad in your crotch to accentuate your hram.

I've only done it a couple times, but i've found if you cinch the girth hitch down when you first set it up, it doesn't loosen up (and then have the potential for movement during fall). Probably works better with an older, fuzzier rope than a new slick one. edit: ah, maybe you mean "sliding" of the girth hitch due to both strands not being equally loaded during the fall. I think if you make sure you are really in the middle, that shouldn't be a big factor. Good point though.

Another advantage of this method is that the "knot" is easily adjustable if you find you aren't exactly in the middle of the rope. Being in the exact middle is preferable for the reasons Gene noted above. I think for tying into the middle of a rope (glacier travel style), a butterfly is preferred, but for tying into a doubled-end like in the OP's scenario, a figure-8 on a bight, or Blake's method are preferred.

Yeah! Doin' mountains, tickin' em off! Rock on dude!

DENALI DAVE AND JAKE PORTER SEPARATED AT BIRTH!?!? MORE AT ELEVEN!

http://www.azcentral.com/business/consumer/articles/2009/06/02/20090602freeparks.html From the Arizona Republic National parks plan 3 free summer weekends WASHINGTON - The National Park Service will allow visitors free entry during three weekends this summer to encourage Americans to visit national parks such as the Grand Canyon, Yosemite and Rocky Mountain National Park. The fee waivers - one each month in June, July and August - will apply to all 391 national parks across the country, from Alaska to Florida. Interior Secretary Ken Salazar said the free weekends should help American families struggling with the recession afford a memorable vacation. All 147 Park Service sites that charge fees for entry will waive entrance fees from June 20-21, July 18-19 and August 15-16, Salazar said. Entry fees being waived range from $3 to $25. That does not apply to fees charged for camping, reservations, tours or concessions.

hello. I am not the one who is forty. Thank you for allow sexy photo model to post.

Q: How do you know when you are talking to a mountain guide. A: Don't worry, he will tell you.

[sarcasm]yes, it's ok for a huge group to overrun all the best easy climbs at a crag and make things unpleasant/impossible for everyone else not in their club, because there are other, shittier, climbs elsewhere in the area [/sarcasm]

Olga Korbut

This one goes out to you special guy! [video:youtube]

I'm a few weeks late

WHAT ARE YOU DOING TODAY TO ACHIEVE YOUR DREAM?

I have not found switching belay devices to be any faster than briefly tieing off the second-soon-to-be-leader and moving the belay device from anchor to harness. Try it both ways and see which you prefer.

Gotta take the autoblock off the anchor and put it on your harness to belay a leader. Either have your partner clip into the anchor or tie them off with a clove while you do the changeover.

This is the root of damn near all of the problems as far as I can tell. I don't mind working around one group of four bumblies (say, one instructor, one assistant instructor, and two newbs), but 12, 16, 24, etc is ridiculous. The mounties/mazamas/BoAlps all need to reduce their group size and 83% off all problems will go away. p.s. If I found an anchor rig left out overnight by any of those groups, it would be in my gear pile now.

Sell all your gear. It's over.

To post a trip report: Go HERE Scroll down to trip reports Select the region where your trip took place. For example, if you climbed Mt. Baker, you would put your trip report in the North Cascades section which is HERE At the top left of the screen you will see a link that says "New Trip Report". Click on that. Perhaps a Mod could add this to the FAQ? Edit: I see you figured it out. Funny that I used Mt. Baker as the example.

The bolt in question is pretty close to the lip of the roof, so I think it would be accessible on rappel. There seems to be a mixture of 1/2" and 3/8" bolts on that route. Unusual. There was also a loose nut on one of the bolts at the anchor before that roof pitch. I finger tightened it, but some loctite/silicon tape/rubber washer and a wrench would be ideal. Thanks to Sol for ropegunning me up the route on Wednesday! It's fun to climb above your ability level every once in a while. I think I may have even uncaged my soul a little bit - it's pretty sore now.

I seriously doubt you are "acclimatized to 14k", but it sounds like you are in good aerobic shape. Be aware that traveling from far away and trying to squeeze a big climbing trip into a narrow time window might make you more prone to ignore avy conditions/weather/etc and say "aw fuckit, let's go for it" when the prudent climber would probably bail. It's a potentially dangerous situation and has lead to some deaths in the cascades in recent years.

Wonderful news!

No sunscreen is going to be as good as sunblock for long-term use in an intensely reflective environment like a glacier in summer. Sunblocks contain metal, usually zinc or titanium oxide, that physically block the sun's rays and do not break down in the process the way sunscreens do. You may look like a dork with a big white zinc-oxide covered nose, but it works.