Alpinfox

I agree. Much better way to learn to trust gear.

I think it can have value in teaching new trad leaders to trust gear. Overcoming fear which might hold them back, yadda yadda. Psychology. Of course it should only be done with the gear backed up with a solid anchor, or a secondary toprope on, and the fall should be clean/safe.

What size is your foot? Spantiks for $511 Limited sizes available

HAHAHAHHAAA

Updating this thread. I bought the newest version of the Petzl Reverso, the "Reverso III". Having used the old reverso and the BD ATC Guide, I definitely prefer the Reverso III. It is smoother than the old reverso, doesn't chatter while lowering/rappelling like the old reverso (cable-keeper instead of rigid metal), doesn't have the sharpening issue of the old reverso, has more braking power than the old reverso, but not TOO MUCH braking power. I think the new design is also more idiotproof as there is now a clear difference between the slot where you clip the anchor biner and the slot where you clip the belay biner. I've seen several people mess that up when using the old style reverso for the first time. Kinda scary. I didn't use the BD Guide for very long, but I found that it had too much friction in rap mode, belaying a leader, and most noticably in auto-block mode where I could barely pull a ~10mm rope through the thing. I'm very happy with the Reverso III and it comes in several colors so I can coordinate it with my outfit for the day. [video:youtube]

There can be quite a bit of variability between stated and actual diameters of climbing ropes. Maybe that is what's going on with your two ropes. What brand/model are the two ropes? Also, keep in mind that new ropes are very slick and tight and will have a lot less friction than a rope that has been used a bit. With use, your rope will fuzz a bit and also fatten up slightly, giving you significantly more friction/control/stopping power. I wouldn't recommend buying a specialty belay device for this rope just yet. On the other hand, if you do multipitch climbing, I would highly recommend getting an auto-block capable belay device (petzl reverso III or BD ATC Guide). I have the Reverso III and have used it on single ropes down to 9.2mm (Mammut Revelation) and with 8.5mm half-ropes with no insecurity.

9.7mm is not a skinny rope by modern standards. Any belay device should be fine. With a bit more experience with your new rope, you will probably get comfortable with it and those >10mm ropes will seem enormous and clunky. For REAL skinny ropes (<9mm) the reversino is supposed to be good. I've never used it. I believe THIS is the skinniest single-rated rope on the market. 8.9mm

Almost the same thread title

What is that rumbling sound?

That is one fawking sweet looking peak. Nice work boys! Looking forward to the hometown slideshow of this one as well.

I"MCLEANINGTHEGARAGEANDJUSTDRANKACOUPLEFOURYEAROLDENERGYDRINKSIFOUNDINTHEGARAGEPRETTYEXCITEDABOUTIT!CAFFIENEISAHELLOFADRUG!ISITTRUETHATTAURINEISEXTRACTEDFROMBULLTESTICLES?

To absolve myself of the sin of spraying in such a great thread: 1) West Face, Colchuck Balanced Rock 2) Direct East Buttress, South Early Winter Spire =fern's picture 3) North Ridge, Mt. Stuart 4) Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier 5) West Face, North Early Winter Spire =Layton's pic 6) Davis/Holland, Index UTW To sum up: Granite, Granite, Granite, Snow, Granite, Granite

Hey DeChristo, check out my fresh "mani"

WTF is up with you, jackass?

How late is this gonna go?

I think climbers are not the abusers (at least in this case). Last time I was at SHC (about 6wks ago) the place was about 50% full of trailers and RVs and the fuckers ran their generators all night. They seemed to be residents (they got up early and drove a car away presumably commuting to work). I'd like to see the 14day limit enforced to keep out the residents, but it's a shame to see the free camping coming to an end.

That is a great list Darin. Especially since I haven't climbed any of those.

Well I ended up going with Sake and situps. Mixin' it up.

Dru, thanks for the info on Viennese. I don't have the Alpine Select book. Need to remedy that.

situps or beer... situps or beer...?

I think it's a great idea. Seems every spring they hatch in different places at different times, so if we had a list to keep track of them, we could avoid them. I hate those little vampires. I'll start: Quite a few last weekend at Warrior Wall area (Lworth).

More info/pictures please? I have not heard of this peak.

Fewer poles generally = lighterweight. Non-freestanding tents might make sense for backpacking, but they are not a good choice for above treeline/mountain use. For your stated uses, I'd recommend you look for a 4-season tent. Four season tents are built to take higher wind loads and they don't have mesh walls, or the mesh can be sealed/covered, thereby preventing snow and cold air from blowing into your tent keeping you drier and warmer. Peruse THIS FORUM for some advice. THIS RECENT THREAD in particular should help you out. Regarding: For christsakes at least take a tent out of the package and set it up in the store before you buy it.

That is SOOOOO interesting!