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Everything posted by Alpinfox
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Huh. That's funny. I've ice climbed with them. Thanks for letting me know.
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Lightweight Wiregates I've used: Neutrinos (36g) - The original lightweight wiregate biner. A little small. Some people say they are difficult to handle with big hands or gloves. I don't recall having any significant problems with them. Trango Superflys (30g) - Nearly full size biner. No shroud on the nose of the biner, so rubbing against rock can easily open the gate (TM at Feathered Friends pointed that out to me). Relatively narrow rope-bearing surface (9mm vs. 9.4mm for the Neutrino). Overall my favorite lightweight wiregate biner. Omega Pacific JC (41g) - Huge rope radius, easy to clip. I haven't used these a whole lot yet, but I really like them. For alpine usage, I'd go with the Superfly for weight reasons. 11g/biner is a lot. Omega Pacific Dovals (37g) - unique shape is adaptable, but I don't like these biners much. Too hard to tell top from bottom. Not particularly easy to clip. Wild Country Helium clean wire (33g) - I got one of these for free from some magazine promotion. Haven't used it much, but it seems nice. Clean, no-snag nose. Expensive! $11.50 each! Black Diamond Hotwire (45g) - full size. Not a lightweight biner. Good standard workhorse biner though. Biners I haven't used: DMM Prowire (36g) - shrouded nose. Large gate opening. Black Diamond Livewire (46g) - Looks like a good clippin' biner for cragging. Not a lightweight biner. Camp Nano (28g) - Supposedly smaller and fumblier than the Neutrino. Definitely the lightest wiregate on the market.
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"Good Deals" brought to you by Alpinfox the Great
Alpinfox replied to Alpinfox's topic in On-Line/Mail-Order Gear Shops
LINK Price is after a $20 mail-in rebate -
first ski descent [TR] Dragontail - TC ski descent 4/4/2006
Alpinfox replied to TeleRoss's topic in Alpine Lakes
Fuggin' badass! Any pictures looking back at the North Face with your turns carved into the couliors? That would be sweet.- 57 replies
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Hopefully his internship as Prison Bitch works out first. I think he'd learn a lot of skills that would be useful as a lobbyist.
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What about that G-Spotter guy?
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Maybe we should invite Jens since he started this thread and all... What do you guys think? Should we invite him? He could ropegun shit for us while we drink beer!
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'Sup E? You wanna hit the T with Oly and me this w/e?
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They did. They covered just as much of the scandals for as possible to maximizie profits/viewership, while casting the accusers for each scandal is as negative a light as possible, questioning motives, expenditures, and legitimacy of the issues as much as possible. A win-win for the media. BTW, I just read this shit. KK you are one idiotic motherfucker. no SHIT that SOME of the media questioned (though not as much as they should have) the motives, expenditures and legitimacy of the issues pertaining to Clinton getting some illicit nookie. Was there any motive EXCEPT political mudslinging? They spent how many HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS OF DOLLARS on the investigation? It was a BLOW JOB for chrissakes!?? Not a criminal conspiracy that killed thousands and thousands of people, ruined the US economy, and destroyed the world's opinion of the US like say... THE IRAQ WAR! FUCK!
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DING! That crooked douchebag needs to go to prison.
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This weekend's forecast says high of 65 and 10% chance of rain for this crag.
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first ascent [TR] Abiel Peak- North Face Possible FA 3/11/2006
Alpinfox replied to scottgg's topic in Alpine Lakes
Howdy Mark, Thanks for sharing your trip report. I was pretty sure this recent rash of "first ascents" would flush out some of you earlier ascensionists. So where on the face is your line? HERE is a link to a picture of the whole face. -
first ascent [TR] Abiel Peak- It's All-Der 3/25/2006
Alpinfox replied to dbb's topic in Alpine Lakes
It was safe last weekend. A very weak crust on top with about 12-18" of isothermic, postholin' type snow underneath that. It wasn't gonna slide, but it was a bit of work. Thankfully the distance between the lake and the base of the climbs (the only part that isn't packed down) isn't very long. Dave and Keith conveniently "forgot to bring gaiters" so I got to do all the trailbreaking. On the descent I even intentionally jumped around on a ~45degree convex slope (I'm stupid sometimes) and nothing slid. Words of advice to those repeating the route: You'll be tying off a lot of alder as pro so bring lots of slings. 5-6 screws, mostly shorties, will be sufficient. A couple of pins and small cams might be helpful, especially if the route is any thinner than when we did it. Don't carry your packs up the route, it makes getting though a couple alder sections pretty annoying and it's only 2.5 pitches with an easy walkoff. -
first ascent [TR] Abiel Peak- It's All-Der 3/25/2006
Alpinfox replied to dbb's topic in Alpine Lakes
My thoughts exactly. -
It was all done with mirrors. ........................./ ............./............. ..................../
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Cascade Crags in Everett?
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My palms are sweaty.
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best of cc.com Learn to climb slab with experienced instructors
Alpinfox replied to scot'teryx's topic in Spray
You want to look tilted? Is that the traverse over to the base of Banana Peel on the Apron? -
...Happy retirement Arthur!
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I recommend taking some remedial spelling and grammar courses.
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[ ] One might argue that the elasticity of the rope is largely exhausted at the time maximum force is applied and therefore would be acting more like a static rope at the time of first piece failure/subsequent extension/subsequent loading of second piece. [/]
