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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. I think a certain cc.com whipping boy has that topic under control, but here is a tip especially for you: Try to keep your momma from flashing her glaring white ass at the camera - tends to overexpose the photo.
  2. p.s. Learn to use THE SEARCH FUNCTION of this website. It will help you to avoid asking a question that has been asked several times before - something that has been known to raise the ire of some cc.com veterans. Search function tips: Note that the default is for the search function to only screen posts made in the last week. Consider changing this to search for posts made within the last four years (that's the maximum). You will get a lot more results. adding <+Word1 +Word2 +Word3> to your search term requires that ALL THREE words appear in your search results. If you don't add the <+> before the word, your search results will include all posts that have ANY of the three words in the post. Using the <+> trick is handy for selectively finding posts on a particular route you might be interested in. For example, searching for <+North +Ridge +Stuart> will weed out most of the posts that deal with other routes on Mt. Stuart. Adding quotes around a phrase will give you search results that contain that exact phrase, so <"North Ridge of Stuart"> will give you posts that have that phrase in them, but it won't give you posts that have "NR Stuart" or "North Ridge of Mount Stuart", etc. The quotes can be a powerful tool though. If you can't find the answer you are looking for, ask in the appropriate forum.
  3. CC.com is a rough and tumble kinda place. There are a bunch of wisecrackers, smartalecks, spraylords, self-aggrandizing ego maniacs, and folks who like to talk tough. There might even be a genuinely mean-spirited person or two that sneak in every once in a while and post something, but they are in the minority and will be dealt with if they are genuinely out of line. Please don't let this discourage you from contributing to this website. Sure there is some harassing that goes on, but it's usually genuinely good natured ribbing between friends. Being mean to new posters is not something that the moderators or most of the posters here will tolerate. So please, ask your questions, post your trip reports, share your photos, and be a contributing part of this website. There is a lot of great information and fun to be had here. You might even hook up with that climbing partner or mentor that you have been hoping for that will help you take your climbing to the next level or get on one of your dream routes. Trip reports are especially encouraged. Even if you think it's a modest climb that no one would be interested in or need beta on, I can tell you that I (and most others on this website) love reading trip reports and seeing pictures of climbing of any sort. It helps our workdays go by and gets us stoked to get out in the mountains. If you had a fun trip, share your story with us! Enthusiasm is infectious. Welcome to CC.com!
  4. Ross, you're hurting my feelings. I posted those TRs for YOU buddy!
  5. Yeah, Bush's GPA was 77 and Kerry's was 76. A huge difference to be sure, but what courses did they take? Getting a C+ in Existential Philosophy is a lot more impressive than getting a B- in Cheerleading. Also, what is the most impressive thing each of them have said? Kerry: full quote Bush: "Subliminable", etc.
  6. I'm posting on this topic to say that the previous two posters are correct. Case closed. Anyone who posts anything further will be guilty of spraying in the Newbies forum.
  7. Why does ChucK hate america so much? Why doesn't he come on in for the big win?
  8. Ain't much below 5.6. Maybe you should consider a hike/scramble up the south ridge of Black Peak.
  9. 18.3 deg In the future, you can check on www.topozone.com for this info.
  10. What kind of "training" are you doing? weights? tearing helmets with your bare hands? Do they get numb while you are asleep? While typing on the computer?
  11. Great post! Thanks. I have a few questions for you: I thought Diamox worked by inducing loss of sodium bicarb in urine, therefore inducing mild metabolic acidosis with the homeostatic response being increased respiration which results in boosted oxygenation of blood/tissues. Is that right? If so, does diamox prevent AMS, HAPE, and HACE because with greater oxygenation of blood, the blood pressure doesn't need to be as high, therefore no fluid leakage into lungs/brain? Is AMS really just a very mild form of HACE? and finally, regarding: If both diamox and viagra/cialis boost oxygenation, why wouldn't they both counteract AMS, HAPE, and HACE? HERE is a nice tutorial on high altitude physiology I found
  12. The gri-gri-only belay device policy is fucking lame. I don't like the environment/clientelle of VW (only went there once). Monopolies/homogeniety are almost always bad.
  13. First result using google search second google result Note that the mechanism of action of sildenafil with regards to the enhancement of pulmonary function is entirely distinct from the MOA of other "altitude" drugs such as diamox. I wonder if the two together would give a climber a super-boost? Hmmm.... I'm gonna write a grant. Maybe I can spend next season at Everest base camp.
  14. I don't give a shit. I'm not being uncivil to the guy; nor do I think anyone else thus far on this thread has been. He's getting his answers - as well as this motley crue can provide them anyway. If he (or others) get flustered by coarse language or delivery styles; fuck em.
  15. PP, you have any pictures of your method? I'd be interested to see how you protect the fingers without being overly bulky.
  16. Well CBS, you don't even know if the guy is asking about taping to prevent wrist tendonitis (my interpretation) or if he is taping for crack climbing comfort/security (yours apparently). If the later, then your link pretty much sums things up. If the former, its still an open topic (though I agree with RUMR's advice). In either case, who gives a shit. This is an internet chat board meant primarily for entertainment (well it is for me anyway). Spray on!
  17. I've reused tape gloves many times (once for ~8 days or so at Joshua tree) with good results. That is a great link CBS. I remember trying to find a similar link a few months ago with no success. Bullshit. It is more secure and comfortable. That's why its aid (at least in the same way that sticky rubber is aid).
  18. Climb: Mount Stuart-Complete North Ridge Date of Climb: 9/7/2006 Inspired by TELEMARKER & FRIEND'S TRIP REPORT, ChucK and I took a day off from work yesterday to climb the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart. ChucK had done it once before with a camp and a bivy, and I had never done it before, but we figured we'd give it a go in crazy car-to-car style. Everything went really smoothly, and I don't have very much to add that hasn't been said before about this route. In fact, our experience was so similar to Telemarker's trip report that I considered just taking their report and photoshoping ChucK's and my faces over theirs. Anyway, here are a few random musings: The first two pitches of the lower ridge are really nice. I think the second pitch we did was the "Kearney death corner" (read his description in Classic Climbs of the Northwest and you'll know what I'm talking about). He says that pro is sparse and the corner is dangerous, but it must have been cleaned up since he did it, because it is easily protectable now. Anyway, we belayed the first two pitches of the lower ridge, simuled to the gendarme, did the gendarme in one pitch, and then simuled to the summit. I thought the second half of the Gendarme pitch (the offwidth section) was the hardest section of the climb. The second pitch of the lower ridge was next in difficulty, then the first half of the gendarme pitch, then the first pitch of the lower ridge. Everything else was surprisingly easy. I expected more difficult climbing overall, but the CNR is very cruxy. This is (obviously) a fantastic route. Almost 3000' of technical climbing on nearly flawless rock. Definitely deserving of it's "Classic" status. We did not see a single person all day. Nice to have such an awesome mountain all to ourselves. ChucK leading the first pitch on the lower ridge: Starting the simulclimb block just above the second pitch of the lower ridge: ChucK on the sharp ridge below the gendarme: ChucK heading up the slab below the gendarme: Looking up the slab pitch below the gendarme: Starting the gendarme pitch: Fire to the west of Stuart: Summit register: Gear Notes: blue metolius yellow metolius 0.5 camalot 0.75 camalot 1 camalot (x2) 2 camalot #4 forged friend about 6 nuts (mostly medium-large) three medium hexes 10 slings no crampons, no axes 60m 9.2mm rope (probably could have done it with a doubled over 7.5) Times: Woke at 3am Left car at 3:30am Base of ridge at 8:15am Started climbing at 8:30am Notch at ~noon Summit at 3:30pm Car at 8:15pm Approach Notes: We went in via Ingalls Lake, over Goat Pass, traversed to base of ridge, up route, down cascadian, then over Longs Pass. Water was available on the traverse from Goat Pass to the base of the route. No water until base of Cascadian Coulior.
  19. Since I'm not a medical professional, I'll go ahead and give you some advice. Rest - don't exercise the hand anymore than necessary. Tape your fingers together to remind you that you are injured and shouldn't be using them. Ice - reduces inflamation and pain Ibuprofen/Naproxen - Reduces inflamation and pain If it hasn't gotten significantly better within a week post-injury, go see your doctor. Don't wait too long, because if you really popped a tendon, there is a critical period for surgical repair (if that is necessary) - though if you can still flex the fingers and you don't have a bowstringing tendon, total tendon rupture is unlikely. It could be a partial tear of the palmar fascia. If so, hopefully, in your case the inflamatory response/healing won't lead to a Duputreyen's contracture. Like I said, I wouldn't rely on the advice of an anonymous, random person on the internet, even if they are an Alpinfox.
  20. Holy beta overload! I'm disapointed I missed that chimney thing when I did the WR. That looks neat.
  21. I would recommend talking to a hand specialist (PM me if you'd like a recommendation). You may have to get a referral from you general practice doctor. Don't rely on medical info you get from anonymous, random people via the internet. There are a couple of medical professionals that post on this website, but they aren't going to give you any advice without an examination.
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