Alpinfox

I posted this elsewhere, but it seemed appropriate here: TRing through the chains sux. Chain anchors cost about $20 and yes the DO wear out. It also gets your rope dirtier (steel chains that have been out in the elements put more shit on your rope than clean aluminum biners). BTW, if you were serious about being willing to make a personal financial contribution to anchor replacement, please Click Here. When repeatedly TRing a climb with a beginner who doesn't know how to clean an anchor, you can attach two draws to the bolts AND run the rop through the chains so that rope is weighting the draws. All the newbie has to do is take the draws off and lower off the chains when everyone is done climbing.

TRing through the chains sux. Chain anchors cost about $20 and yes the DO wear out. It also gets your rope dirtier (steel chains that have been out in the elements put more shit on your rope than clean aluminum biners). When repeatedly TRing a climb with a beginner who doesn't know how to clean an anchor, you can attach two draws to the bolts AND run the rop through the chains so that rope is weighting the draws. All the newbie has to do is take the draws off and lower off the chains when everyone is done climbing.

Nice pictures both of you! What kinda cameras you guys use?

We have seen some Dall and Harbor Porpoises, but no otters. I thought we otter have seen some by now. More bald eagles than you can shake a sockeye at. Yesterday we kayaked over to the glacier and bouldered around a bit. My aluminum pons did all right on the seracs. Rain. Tourists. Fog. Blue-hairs. Drizzle. "Newly-weds and Nearly-deads". Clouds. Parts of Clouds. Tourons. Fog. Liquid Sunshine. Showers. Rubber boots aka "Sitka Slippers". "Marine Air".

Thanks E! We did some buildering on the OUTSIDE of the UAS sports building yesterday, maybe we'll have to try the INSIDE next. Alaska Brewing Company

Looks 5.9d to me.

Alaska (weather) is still SUCK! Isn't this supposed to be the land of the midnight SUN!?!?? It's not all bad though... went kayaking around the snout of the Mendenhall Glacier today. Iceburgs. Coolness. Thank you for allow soggy American to post.

You lookin' fer an offwidth partner? You best getcherself a HANSEL!!!

Dat dude lives in FARbanks... too FAR away.

Oh Mendenhall, My Mendenhall, Wherefore art thou, my Mendenhall? To rain, and then to rain, That is the forecast. Whether tis nobler, to go home to Seattle Or stay in Juneau and Spray?

Donde esta la bailar de nervosa?

Jeeeezus ya'll spray a lot. Is there any way we could get a weekly "Spray Summary" or something like that?

MMMmmm.....

Is he looking for "clients" or "partners"? Can you post a picture of the peak here?

The library "inhibitants" keep giving me the evil eye when I yell out, "STEAKSAUCE!!!" Maybe I'll go look up "steaksauce" in the card catalog.

I'm learning how to spray on cc.com from a library rather than the privacy of my own home.

Juneau forecast vs. Leavenworth forecast I think I'd rather be bouldering in Leavenworth

Nice climbin' guys! I'm sitting under a literal raincloud of jealousy up here in Juneau, AK. Ken, sorry to hear about Das Foot. Have some and kick back for a while. Cheers Ya'll

Picking up crampons? Remember, lift with the legs... For standard routes on the volcanoes, get a pair of alluminum pons you can strap on any pair of boots/shoes.

Why does the weather suck so bad up here? I mean, giving piggyback rides and going sailing is nice, but I came here to climb goddamnit!

I know I know.... I am a terrible person. I hang my head in shame.

Help a brotha out! I bailed on the guy and I feel bad.

Hey Klenke, Lambone misspelled "Thomson" in a picture he just uploaded to the gallery! Are you going to stand for that!??? GO GET HIM!!! edit: Jeff Smoot misspelled it in his "Climbing Washington's Mountains" too!!! another edit: Fred Beckey also misspelled it! You've got a lot of work to do. One more edit: Jim Nelson too!!?!?? It's an epidemic!!

In the situation where a partner was spooked by conditions and I wasn't, I'd explain WHY I wasn't spooked (the snow is solid and well-adhered, those clouds are just cirrus... whatever), but if after all of that my partner still said, "I wanna turn around". That would be it. I would never try to coerce someone into continuing a climb they were uncomfortable with. If that happened repeatedly, I probably wouldn't climb with that person in the future, but I would still turn around. Climbing in smaller groups (preferably as a pair) simplifies these discussions/decision making process. Big groups (e.g. Mountie's outing = clusterfuck). Soloing is REALLY simple. Edit: To directly answer the specific question. To minimize your chance of an accident while climbing, choose routes with higher fun quotients and lower objective danger quotients, even if those climbs aren't in the "Fifty Classics" or the cc.com flavor of the month or whatever. And that list that Skeezix put up is

Colorado has some mighty tasty choss. Any of the Cascade Volcanos could win the title. The Kangaroo (WA Pass area) has some of the deepest granola I have ever seen. I think I postholed up to my knee in one spot.