Alpinfox

If you use an expansion bolt (like Powers) you can just unscrew the bolt and replace the hanger. No need to drill a new hole. That said, I agree that your setup is initially cheaper and cheaper to replace. Thanks for all the info. Where do you get those hangers? This thread has taken a lot of twists and turns around the original topic. Sorry about that.

I'm tolerant of beginners and slow climbers and such, but there are times when they do stupid shit and deserve to hear about it. Top-roping the first pitch of a multi-pitch route for hours and hours Top-roping a popular climb for hours and hours while others are waiting around to LEAD it Leaving top-ropes hanging on a climb and no one is climbing Climbing in large groups (understandable, but adds to clusterfuck potential) Etc... Being a beginner is fine, being an inconsiderate ass is not fine no matter what your experience level. I understand that climbing has some unique etiquette that beginners might not know about, so politely offering some advice is not out of order. Peace and love!

I'm all set to try out the Zeros... If I only had the $$ The trigger bar looks a little small and fumbly, you had any problems with that Der Dru? I have to admit, I think I'd drool on one of these too: MMMmmm..... Moving Parts.....

Slappy, I'd like to know where you shop. Seriously... if you have a good source for getting anchor hardware, please send me a PM. Retail for hangers is $2.50 each, and its about the same for a bolt (Powers expansion). That's $10 right there just for the anchor bolts. But of course, you shouldn't need to replace the hangers+bolts on an anchor due to TRing through the chains. You can buy standard steel chain and a couple of snaplinks to replace worn anchors and that would be pretty cheap, but the rock climbing specific chain setups like the Fixe one below retail for about $10-15 each. You are PROBABLY right that not enough people will ever TR through the chains at PG to wear out the anchors, but in my opinion, it's a bad practice and I try to encourage new climbers not to get in the habit of doing it. Cheers edit: By the way, all the reasons you listed for the superiority of the "slingshot belay" setup (belayer on ground) are right on. The only reason I can think of why someone might want to belay from above is to show a newbie how it works so they are ready for multipitch stuff.

Always seem to find a spot for my yellow (#2) metolius cam. They should make some "micro" tricams. I'm sure that there is a limit due to the minimum thickness of the axle, but I think they could go smaller than the pinkie 0.5.

Nice!

Well I THOUGHT that was how a carabiner was supposed to work. SHEESH!

I posted this elsewhere, but it seemed appropriate here: TRing through the chains sux. Chain anchors cost about $20 and yes the DO wear out. It also gets your rope dirtier (steel chains that have been out in the elements put more shit on your rope than clean aluminum biners). BTW, if you were serious about being willing to make a personal financial contribution to anchor replacement, please Click Here. When repeatedly TRing a climb with a beginner who doesn't know how to clean an anchor, you can attach two draws to the bolts AND run the rop through the chains so that rope is weighting the draws. All the newbie has to do is take the draws off and lower off the chains when everyone is done climbing.

TRing through the chains sux. Chain anchors cost about $20 and yes the DO wear out. It also gets your rope dirtier (steel chains that have been out in the elements put more shit on your rope than clean aluminum biners). When repeatedly TRing a climb with a beginner who doesn't know how to clean an anchor, you can attach two draws to the bolts AND run the rop through the chains so that rope is weighting the draws. All the newbie has to do is take the draws off and lower off the chains when everyone is done climbing.

Nice pictures both of you! What kinda cameras you guys use?

We have seen some Dall and Harbor Porpoises, but no otters. I thought we otter have seen some by now. More bald eagles than you can shake a sockeye at. Yesterday we kayaked over to the glacier and bouldered around a bit. My aluminum pons did all right on the seracs. Rain. Tourists. Fog. Blue-hairs. Drizzle. "Newly-weds and Nearly-deads". Clouds. Parts of Clouds. Tourons. Fog. Liquid Sunshine. Showers. Rubber boots aka "Sitka Slippers". "Marine Air".

Thanks E! We did some buildering on the OUTSIDE of the UAS sports building yesterday, maybe we'll have to try the INSIDE next. Alaska Brewing Company

Looks 5.9d to me.

Alaska (weather) is still SUCK! Isn't this supposed to be the land of the midnight SUN!?!?? It's not all bad though... went kayaking around the snout of the Mendenhall Glacier today. Iceburgs. Coolness. Thank you for allow soggy American to post.

You lookin' fer an offwidth partner? You best getcherself a HANSEL!!!

Dat dude lives in FARbanks... too FAR away.

Oh Mendenhall, My Mendenhall, Wherefore art thou, my Mendenhall? To rain, and then to rain, That is the forecast. Whether tis nobler, to go home to Seattle Or stay in Juneau and Spray?

Donde esta la bailar de nervosa?

Jeeeezus ya'll spray a lot. Is there any way we could get a weekly "Spray Summary" or something like that?

MMMmmm.....

Is he looking for "clients" or "partners"? Can you post a picture of the peak here?

The library "inhibitants" keep giving me the evil eye when I yell out, "STEAKSAUCE!!!" Maybe I'll go look up "steaksauce" in the card catalog.

I'm learning how to spray on cc.com from a library rather than the privacy of my own home.

Juneau forecast vs. Leavenworth forecast I think I'd rather be bouldering in Leavenworth

Nice climbin' guys! I'm sitting under a literal raincloud of jealousy up here in Juneau, AK. Ken, sorry to hear about Das Foot. Have some and kick back for a while. Cheers Ya'll