Gary_Yngve

Summited via the Kautz earlier today. Ramp through the ice cliff was nice neve in the early morniing, excellent cramponing and bomber picket placements. I doubt there was snow steeper than 40 degrees. Later in the day the slope softened up (crampons were balling like hell but not soft enough for plunge-stepping); we down-climbed carefully. We were able to do a rising traverse through the icefall onto the ramp, avoiding dropping down and left to the bottom of the ramp. The lower Nisqually has nary a crack on it; on the way out we chose not to rope up.

Using a 6th-degree polynomial to model that curve is lame. The fit is snug because it's overfit, and there's absolutely no justification for why the high-degree poly model is appropriate.

Dang, just looked through my cabinets and discovered that I have eight bottles of wine sittin' around. Better start drinkin' some soon! (four $2 Chucks, two bottles that I brought back from Europe, and two of something else) I also found four empty bottles in there to remind myself that they were bottles of wine I really enjoyed... one of them hit me for $30, but it is by far the best wine I have ever tasted. Burgundy with a subtle nutty flavor. But there is a cheaper bottle among them: the Georges Buboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2000 which I got for about $5 two years ago. Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Noveau 2000 (TJ's carries these; I want to say there were about $5 each back then) Cuvee Penelope Blanc de Blancs 1999 ($6.99 at TJs)

is this the evil doings of those ecoterrorist fucks?

The only problem with red wine for underage drinking is that it produces some nasty hard-to-clean puke.

A v8+ translates into Beckey-speak as a shoulderstand.

Hence the invention of the word mountaineering. Two problems with mountaineering: 1) It's four syllables, whereas climbing is two, making mountaineering stories much harder to tell when drunk than climbing stories. You can say you climbed a peak but not that you mountaineered it. Although hiking works well for an all-purpose word too. I told my parents that I only went hiking solo in Lofoten. 2) In some circles, you may need to be careful if you call yourself a m[M]ountaineer.

I want a single easy word to describe everything I enjoy doing in the mountains. I use "climbing." Actually two words. There's "skiing" too.

http://www.oralcancerfoundation.org/tobacco/demographics_tobacco.htm Demographics on smoking. People who are poorer and undereducated smoke more.

crank up the Alice in Chains! I think you got the wrong Alice Doh, you're right... Alice Cooper... argh.

Yeah, he showed the foot slide... eeeew!

crank up the Alice in Chains!

I liked the 5.9 fingercrack variation. I second what thrutch says about the bearhug.

Am I the only one agreeing with Dru that it's about time that Reagan died? He's been more or less a vegetable because of the Alzheimers.

I wish they'd mention this sort of stuff on the news too. It would paint a much fuller picture than the deaths, tortures, and kidnappings that we normally see.

A few years ago, that was done, I believe. http://policejobs.com/img/police02.html http://www.filmthreat.com/Reviews.asp?File=ReviewsOne.inc&Id=3065

picture of Chair from mid-April

I haven't done the West Ridge, but my guess is conditions may completely change depending on what happens this weekend. I'd probably be more worried about what the upper ridge is like (snow/rime if it gets blasted by a storm?) than any of the couloirs.

Robust Nonlinear Control Design: State-Space and Lyapunov Techniques For pleasure reading, I'm slowly working my way through Long on Adventure: The Best of John Long.

Got pulled over about two months ago. Cop tells us she pulled us over because we had left the lid for the gas tank open after pulling out of the gas station in Cle Elum. She asks for ID, runs the license, etc. She asks what we're doing and we explain we're out late driving back from a climb. She lets us go, either not noticing or ignoring the fact that my driver didn't have insurance and had expired tabs or license or something important. Talk about lucky. Got pulled over a few weeks later on the I-5 stretch between Seattle and Everett for going 13 over. Driver just kept it simple, "I'm really sorry; I'll watch my speed more carefully," and we got a warning. I've never been pulled over while driving, though I only drive a few times a year. Closest I've gotten was having a state patrol car ride my bumper in an effort to coerce me to floor the pedal to pass-on-the-right the mofo traveling too slow in the left lane. I was just about to pull the move when I checked my blind spot and noticed that the car tailing me was a cop car.

I grew up in NYC...didn't learn to drive till I was 25. I've only had for a little over a year! My mom was the same way -- learned how to drive in Brooklyn. Crazy thing is that she learned to drive an automatic using one foot for gas and one foot for brake and still drives that way today.

shit, bad news. one of the climbers died and the other one is on the way to Harborview. http://www.king5.com/topstories/stories/NW_060304WABrainierrescueLJ.2267197d6.html

Post deleted by Gary_Yngve

Does "It's raining outside" count as an overhead sprinkler?