Gary_Yngve

Someone graciously volunteered to retrieve the gear!

By variations of the West Ridge -- generally avoiding the ledges on the south side and either wandering to the north side or staying on the crest. We had several pitches of 5.9 and ended up bivying just short of the summitblock. But we got what we came there for -- adventure on granite! Found lots of old booty too (noseless biners, etc.)

Descended Ulrich's couloir a few days ago. Pretty melted out. Ended up rapping a few times due to cliffs, waterfalls gushing over wet slabs, scary thin snow, etc. Found a Nalgene belonging to "Jenkins" and an old-school helmet that apparently had fallen off someone's pack. The sucker must have weighed two pounds! Greg, the summit block is free of snow -- you'd have to drop into a couloir or find an isolated patch in the shade on the north side.

Any Seattlites heading up to do the C-D or NR this weekend? Some gear was left behind after the rescue last weekend. If you'd be willing to carry it out and bring it back, you will be rewarded with good karma and PM me and I'll tell you where and what to look for. Thanks!

http://www.oxmed.com/docs/datafiles/pilon%20fracture.html

I think Nelson's suggestion is for the final summitblock. You get to the false summit, drop down a little saddle, and then when you go up to the true summit, there's a short wide crack that takes a hex near the bottom of it.

specifically for reconstruction after a pilon fracture. Dr. Winquist's name has come up again and again, but other names would be appreciated in case he's booked. Please PM Stephen_Ramsey with any suggestions.

Honestly I'd prefer a professorship where tenure is determined more by how good of a teacher you are rather than how many papers can you churn out and how much grant money can you bring in. I don't want to be a professor who enslaves his grad students. But having grad students is very empowering. You can pursue multiple ideas at once. Hell, I have a couple side-projects now that are getting basically zero attention. The ideas are all there -- just no time to implement.

From REI?

Well, we can have a grassroots campaign where we call the peak Denali instead. The name could change eventually, just as how the English lexicon evolves over the years. Get guidebook authors to rebel and call it Denali in their books. Now, the key question about Denali is whether that hard route is the Czech Direct or the Slovak Direct. Other peeves: Why don't we use metrics? I'm making an effort to speak in metrics (instead of our screwy system) when in regular conversation. Why do we do "Month Day Year" instead of "Day Month Year" (like the Euros) or "Year Month Day" (good for sorting)?

Moore's obesity isn't killing US soldiers and innocent Iraqis.

A bad-weather weekend is a good chance to scout approaches/descents for routes that, as a weekend warrior, you wouldn't have time to spare for routefinding when doing the actual climb.

It's actually not so bad. About twice a year a nasty bug comes along that takes more than a week to figure out. I love doing research, but coding is the part I like the least. Coming up with ideas, reading literature, generating results, writing papers... that's the fun part to me. The only problem is I have to wait till I'm a prof for when I can ditch the coding to my army of grad student minions.

I had been stuck on a bug in my code (actually interfacing with some Fortran code) for the past three weeks. I found it and fixed it last night (experiencing a very similar feeling to taking a much needed dump), so now I get to go play in the mountains!!!

On a more serious note, Mark's comment about maybe having a park shuttle ferry people along the West Side Road sounds like a good idea to me.

i do cheese fondue and chocolate fondue the chocolate fondue is great when you spike it with some Gran Marnier

th ear py

What part of "breaking out of prison and going on a sorority killing spree" do you fail to understand? http://slate.msn.com/id/1007001/ The folks that break out of prison aren't usually the mass murderer type. Throw someone in 24-hour lockdown at Walla Walla and they ain't goin' nowhere.

Wouldn't that be Mike Tyson's Knockup the Waitress?

I don't even know who are the Olson twins.

In wintertime, I use an MSR Dragonfly. In between the Whisperlite and XKG in terms of robustness, but what's really cool is it has a simmer knob. That translates to fondue (as well as fuel conservation if you can spare the time). Summertime I prefer a canister stove. I have the Primus Alpine, which is very similar to the MSR Pocket Rocket. (And it also simmers!) The Primus Alpine cost me about $30 a few years ago. I have a small titanium pot that the fuel canister sits inside. It's a pretty good lightweight combo for summertime trips where most of your fuel needs will be for cooking.

How the hell did MSFT get the patent for it? MIT Media Lab has done this sort of stuff for many years.

If I had it my way, all Americans would have guaranteed healthcare and education. But I do think it's silly for folks in jails to get free HBO (is that true, or just an urban legend?) I think it would be cool for prisons to have some sort of work program to help people return to society and to help subsidize the expenses of the prisons. But there's a fine line between a work program and the gulag.

That's a bad example. Killing Saddam would make him a martyr. But even other people who "deserve" to be killed -- I think we should draw a line and establish the moral high ground and say that we're not going to kill people as punishment. The purpose of "punishment" is: 1) To keep dangerous people away from harming society 2) To correct the behavior of people so they will not harm society in the future I do not think the purpose of punishment should be so that the victims can feel revenge. It seems sick and twisted to me for the relatives of a murder victim to feel solace or get a boner by watching the murderer fry.

What I'm wondering is wouldn't the guy feel the pain and stop? I assume the trauma you're describing would have to result from multiple thrusts.