Gary_Yngve

Jon, I think the point is that when the stats were fubared and there appeared to be a global decrease in terrorism, Bush was claiming that he was doing a good job. So he'll pat himself on the back for a good stat but argue that he cannot be blamed for a bad stat -- it's got to be someone else's fault, or no one else could do better. Standard politics. The economy boomed during Clinton's presidency, and I'm sure the Democrats said it was because of Clinton's policies. When the economy started tanking during Bush's presidency, the Republicans were saying that the downhill started even before Bush took office, so it's not his fault. When [flawed] causal logic can be used in a politician's favor, he'll use it, and when it doesn't work in his favor, he doesn't use it.

my seventh post: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB1&Number=24660&Forum=,,,,,,,All_Forums,,,,,,,&Words=&Searchpage=6&Limit=100&Main=24660&Search=true&where=&Name=1822&daterange=&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post24660 (My first post was defending the Mounties.)

not that many new blowdowns -- just a couple that are pretty annoying with skiis i have some pics from our trip there at the beginning of may: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/HLPski/

Hey, they seem to be doing the right thing -- they haven't had any terrorist attacks on their soil.

Yeah, Conrad Anker, Yvon Choinard, and the previous AAC presidents are all from Seattle.

People on this site do it all the time when a climbing accident occurs or when someone makes a questionable decision in the mountains. There was even more armchair quarterbacking going on over last night's shindig. If you weren't there, you didn't know what the situation was and you didn't know what happened. Some of you are acting as if I had pissed on their ancestors' graves. If all of you would have been polite and immediately shutdown a slideshow that was almost over (instead of running through the last few slides), I'm calling bullshit.

Road was passable to trailhead a month ago. Dunno if there's enough snow. Regardless of how much snow is higher up, you'll still be carrying skiis on your back (enjoy the blowdowns) for the first 1000 vertical through the forest.

Thanks for the insightful read. Good job on toughing it out in those nasty conditions. Always nice to see climbers come together and help each other out. Loohing forward to seeing any pictures that you have.

Thanks for the beta, ChucK!

It was neve in the morning -- great for cramponing and pounding in bomber pickets. Snow was soft and not as sexure when we downclimbed through there in the afternoon. See the other thread (Kautz or Fuhrer) for more info.

and even if you did decide to rap it, getting from the second bolt ladder to the first bolt ladder would prove to be quite tricky, as it's pretty traversy.

some pictures: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/KautzGlacier/

Prove it. Take the first half of data. Build a 6th-degree poly fitting it. Extrapolate the data and see how the predictions compare to the second half of the data. Notice how the predictions suck. QED

A real matlab user would just say A\b.

When we did it Thu-Sat, we went to high camp at 10,400 on the Turtle on the first day and used the second day as solely a rest day. We felt that the day of acclimation made summit day much easier.

Summited via the Kautz earlier today. Ramp through the ice cliff was nice neve in the early morniing, excellent cramponing and bomber picket placements. I doubt there was snow steeper than 40 degrees. Later in the day the slope softened up (crampons were balling like hell but not soft enough for plunge-stepping); we down-climbed carefully. We were able to do a rising traverse through the icefall onto the ramp, avoiding dropping down and left to the bottom of the ramp. The lower Nisqually has nary a crack on it; on the way out we chose not to rope up.

Using a 6th-degree polynomial to model that curve is lame. The fit is snug because it's overfit, and there's absolutely no justification for why the high-degree poly model is appropriate.

Dang, just looked through my cabinets and discovered that I have eight bottles of wine sittin' around. Better start drinkin' some soon! (four $2 Chucks, two bottles that I brought back from Europe, and two of something else) I also found four empty bottles in there to remind myself that they were bottles of wine I really enjoyed... one of them hit me for $30, but it is by far the best wine I have ever tasted. Burgundy with a subtle nutty flavor. But there is a cheaper bottle among them: the Georges Buboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2000 which I got for about $5 two years ago. Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Noveau 2000 (TJ's carries these; I want to say there were about $5 each back then) Cuvee Penelope Blanc de Blancs 1999 ($6.99 at TJs)

is this the evil doings of those ecoterrorist fucks?

The only problem with red wine for underage drinking is that it produces some nasty hard-to-clean puke.

A v8+ translates into Beckey-speak as a shoulderstand.

Hence the invention of the word mountaineering. Two problems with mountaineering: 1) It's four syllables, whereas climbing is two, making mountaineering stories much harder to tell when drunk than climbing stories. You can say you climbed a peak but not that you mountaineered it. Although hiking works well for an all-purpose word too. I told my parents that I only went hiking solo in Lofoten. 2) In some circles, you may need to be careful if you call yourself a m[M]ountaineer.

I want a single easy word to describe everything I enjoy doing in the mountains. I use "climbing." Actually two words. There's "skiing" too.

http://www.oralcancerfoundation.org/tobacco/demographics_tobacco.htm Demographics on smoking. People who are poorer and undereducated smoke more.

crank up the Alice in Chains! I think you got the wrong Alice Doh, you're right... Alice Cooper... argh.