Mtguide

You're probably right, although I guess one alternative might be to have people sign waivers such as we already do to climb at Carver Bridge Cliff, and as will be required at Madrone if they EVER, in our lifetimes, get over noodling around in red tape and actually get the place opened up again. Perhaps they do this at some climbing gyms also? Shows you how much time I've spent on plastic, which is to say, not much. I'd have to disagree, though, with any suggestion that clipping bolts or pre-hung draws in any way approximates the experience of placing and climbing on pro on lead. Sport and gym climbing require some forethought and sequencing, but the holds are the holds, the bolts are the bolts, there's little creativity demanded. Totally different animal. Just the physical difference in trying to stay on your stance while selecting and placing the right size cam, nut,etc. is far more sustained in trad than sport climbing, until you get to the very upper ratings of difficulty. Let alone the fact that you can protect a trad climb in so many different combinations. Plus, the second then has to clean the pitch, re-rack the gear, and leapfrog the next lead. During my learning years it was still pretty much all pitons, a lot of work for both leader and second, beside the sheer weight of all that iron. Compared to that, my first sport climbing experience (outdoors) was really laughable, I was just giggling like a schoolgirl at how much easier and simpler it was, and how much higher of a rating you could climb to. But it wasn't by any means the same. To me there is still nothing like trad that gives you the feeling of having really accomplished something pretty hard to do, of having done "the real thing". Just mho.

I think it's very important to include a wide variety of "natural" crack features, with two purposes in mind. First, crack climbing tends to be pretty neglected at most gyms, but it is an essential skill for serious outdoor/trad climbers. Few peaks, if any, consist of face climbing exclusively. Bouldering, sport climbing and gym climbing seem to have produced a generation of superb face/hueco/smear/crimp/balance climbers who nonetheless whine about "offwidth cracks" in the pages of Rock and Ice. People, there ARE no offwidth cracks; there are simply cracks, of all sizes and shapes and textures, and if you're going to be a complete and versatile climber/alpinist, you have to be able to climb them all if that's what the climb presents you with. Everything from thin, bottoming finger cracks to big chimneys. Yes, I'm Old School on this--Yosemite-style was the standard when I was learning to climb, and we relished the chance to challenge all manner and sizes of cracks. Stemming, arm and leg bars, squirming and "thrutching" in barndoor dihedrals and outward leaning cracks that want to spit you out, it's all part of climbing on real features. Anyway, it'd be nice to see more attention paid to this aspect of rock climbing skills. And it would greatly benefit learning climbers who are interested in trad. The second reason for including a wide variety of crack features would be to provide an indoor/wintertime area where climbers could learn and practice placing and climbing on protection, instead of just clipping bolts all the time. I'm not familiar with the technical and legal/liability problems that might be presented here, but I can guess that there might be issues regarding the durability of the artificial cracks under the repeated pressure of cams, stoppers and wires of all sizes, especially in holding falls, and just where the lines would be concerning the responsibility of the gym, or the climber/customer. But with the amazing variety of materials for creating lifelike and durable rock faces and textures, I think it would be worth a try. Various concrete/polymer/epoxy mixes can actually be as good as, and tougher, than actual rock. And, of course, there's always the option of using actual rock and mortar, like Schurman Rock in West Seattle, just taking it indoors. I think the gym that had these features would tend to attract a wider range of climbers, in particular a little older and more financially able customer who would love to have a place to come when it's pouring outside, to train and practice trad skills, to stay in shape and tune up over the winter for big mountain summer adventures. I also heartily second the suggestions of those above for drytooling features. In short, it just seems to me that the more you can offer, the broader your client base will be, the more of a service your gym would be to the climbing community, and the better it will be for your bottom line over the long haul.

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I've lost three long-time friends to lung cancer, none of whom ever smoked anything but weed. Two other friends, also non-tobacco users but dope smokers, have both survived lung cancer, one with surgery to remove a small portion of lung, the other by a bone-marrow transplant. And two others in the same non-tobacco stoner category are currently undergoing treatment for lung cancer. Praying they'll make it. I don't know what the specific carcinogenic elements are in marijuana, but 7 out of 7 coming down with lung cancer is a pretty clear sign to me that smoking anything is not good for you. I used weed for a short time (about 6 months) in the late 60's, noticed that it seemed to be affecting my wind, and quit so that it wouldn't compromise climbing and other athletic activities. Quit using tobacco (I smoked a pipe) at the same time, have never smoked anything since. So far so good.

Chuck Norris has also recently advocated that Texas once again secede from the union, and that he plans to run for President of Texas. ________________________________________________________ Outer space exists because it is afraid to be on the same planet with Chuck Norris. If you have five dollars in your wallet, and Chuck Norris has five dollars in his wallet, Chuck Norris has more money than you do.

One hot summer day in Fort Worth when I was 10, my 2 younger sisters and I were playing softball with some neighbor kids in the back yard. I was batting, and my 8-year old sister was pitching. When I swung, I hit a line drive right at her, which hit her smack in the forehead; she fell backwards, putting her right hand out to brace her fall. She squashed a big bumblebee under her hand, which stung her on the thumb. She jumped up screaming and crying, ran around trying to shake the bee off her thumb, and cut her foot on the hose sprinkler. Then she wet her pants, and still crying and screaming, headed for the back door to go inside. The rest of us were all just laughing fit to kill. My Mother, hearing all the screaming, had gone running to the back door to see what the trouble was, and was just opening the screen door as my sister got there. My sister ran right into the edge of the screen door and knocked out a front tooth. This all happened in maybe less than about a minute or so. But alas for my poor Mother, the day was yet young; about two hours later, after lunch, the same bunch of neighbor kids and I were across the street in their backyard, sledding on pieces of cardboard down the inclined bed of an old 50's pickup their dad had made into a trailer. The floor of the bed was the old oak plank kind with metal strips between the planks. About my third slide, I slid off the cardboard and rammed a six-inch sliver as thick as a pencil deep into my right butt cheek. God, I will never forget how that hurt; as I went running back home crying, my Dad was just turning into the driveway after taking my sister to the dentist to get her tooth looked at. He took me inside and got the pliers to pull it out, but it wouldn't come. Mom called the doctor, who came(this was back when they used to do house calls) and even he had a very hard time with it. He finally managed to get all but about an inch of it out, and had to give me a shot of penicillin to forestall infection. My butt was sore for days. I carried that piece of wood in my butt for years till I think it finally was absorbed. And this was only the second week after school let out for the summer. As we sat at the supper table that evening, my sister sitting there with a big bruise on her forehead, a swollen thumb, a fat lip, a missing tooth and a big bandage on her foot, and me sitting on a pillow, my other sisters started giggling, and pretty soon we were all laughing. Dad looked across at Mom with a grin and a twinkle in his eye and just said, "Oh well, it's a sign o' life...".

Pics of hardware, tools, clothing, etc.?

I'm a firm believer in the old principle that one of the best ways to deal with any fear is to first, relax; then to confront it with direct action. So,if you've read all these books on building anchors, such as the ones by John Long and others,(one of the best and most up-to-date is the Falcon "Climbing Anchors Field Guide" by John Long and Bob Gaines, and it's the perfect size to throw in the pack and take with you) which are full of good photos, why not try that shit out? Grab your gear and a belay partner, go find a local crag, and spend some hours building some anchors, trying all kinds of variations. First learn how to place all the various types of pro you have, whether cams, chocks, wires, tricams, etc. You won't find cracks or features just exactly like those in the books, but try to approximate some similar setups, and then test them out. Start out at ground level if it makes you nervous to hang on something you've placed, until you've seen how well your handiwork can be trusted. And don't be in a rush about it; maybe just go by yourself for a while as you're learning to place gear, so you don't have some poor belay slave waiting on you, getting bored shitless as you fiddle with trying to get a chock or hex to fit somewhere. Make sure your placements are solid, yet quick and easy to remove, and make sure you understand why they work. Once you feel confident that your anchors can be trusted, do some pitches on short, easy routes to get the feel of placing pro on route, developing your inventiveness as to what's needed in different situations. If you're at a crag where trad routes are described in a guidebook with the type of pro required, you can learn a lot by doing those routes within your level of skill, getting up as many as you can until you begin to understand why someone would have made the choices they did about the type of pro used. At the same time you'll be developing a fluidity and feel for placing gear, what it really means to figure out the various directions of pull resulting from a fall and how to equalize expected fall forces on an anchor, eliminating rope drag and potential hangups, eliminating wasted motion and getting a sense of what to carry for a route. By the time you've done even a dozen routes, you'll be well on your way, continuing to build your own personal repertoire of improvisation and adaptability to the features and conditions you encounter. Continue to read, everything from books to the Tech Tips in Climbing magazine, to ideas from forums on cc.com and elsewhere, and then go out and practice that stuff, every time you see an new idea, try it out. Read and climb, read and climb, climb and then go back and read, climb some more. One of these days, you'll be on a route somewhere, mind and attention nowhere else but right in the present, focused on the holds, cracks, placements right in front of you, and it'll strike you-- you're hanging off an anchor YOU put in, you're grinning from ear to ear,enjoying the hell out of yourself, maybe on a route YOU are putting up for an FA-- that with all the learning and practice along the way, you didn't just gain confidence in your anchors---you've learned to have confidence in yourself and the decisions you make as a climber. And the door opens a little wider... Now, just so you don't get over confident, never forget to always check things out. Never just throw something in and take it for granted. Take nothing for granted until you're sure. Read "Traditional Lead climbing:Surviving the Learning Years" by Heidi Pesterfield. Keep your perspective, climb hard, stay safe. Best of luck.

Your pediatrician knows your boy better than I do, so if he says the Motrin's OK, that's what to do. Your comment about "Rocky Balboa does Riverdance" cracked me up. Actually, if he wasn't just 9 years old, it'd be perfectly appropriate--just another stout Irish lad kickin' up 'is heels after a grand night at the pub, don't ye know.

Unfortunately not a lot more that can be done now except to let it heal up on its own. You might ice it a couple of times a day using an ice bag or a bag of frozen peas, for about 15-20 min. at a time. Put a small cloth pad or gauze pad over the eye so that you're not icing the eyeball itself. Since he's so young, by Saturday the swelling should be greatly reduced, if not all the way down, but the discoloration will persist, gradually clearing up, for about 10 days. Keep the cut area clean to make sure it doesn't get infected. He may have a bit of a contusion on that cheekbone, not just a bruise of the surrounding tissue. It might also be a good idea to have an eye doctor(opthamologist, not optometrist) check him out just to make absolutely sure that no damage was incurred to the eye itself. By Saturday, it shouldn't be near as painful to the touch as it is now, although it'll still be tender; but you might be able to carefully apply a little makeup to the area so he'll be cosmetically OK to dance. Finally, Motrin is not recommended for children under the age of 12 due to possible side effects. Children's Tylenol is far safer, pediatrician standard treatment, and will also work better to reduce the swelling.

MMMMMM- Set phasers to "Stun".... 8D ...

I always got a kick out the sets in the original series; you gotta have balls to act as if "Cap'n, she's goin' doon!!" while sitting at the control panel of the Enterprise, wiggling a couple of ice cream scoop handles and gaping at your "yaw indicator" which is a couple of trailer lights under a spray-painted cheese grater. They didn't pay those guys near enough.

NWAC forecast indicates high avy danger throughout the weekend, with the hazard of a rising temperature gradient(not necessarily the temperature itself rising, but the warmer air ascending the mountain)complicating what would otherwise be a normal period of consolidation. 2 to 4 feet of new snow at higher elevations makes this a pretty chancy scenario. You could find your nighttime summit dash deteriorating into a pretty desperate postholing nightmare. Ever have one of those dreams where you're trying to run but your legs won't move? Welcome to Rainier under these conditions, a real-life horror flick. You could find yourself trying to race the time and temperature, falling further behind by the minute, similar to stumbling into a minefield where the very next step could end your life. Look at a copy of "On Snow and Rock" by Gaston Rebuffat, turn to p.23 and read the photo caption which begins,"At a moment like this there is no longer any charm in this enchanted world, no more poetry in this poetic universe." The last line says,"Fear is an ugly thing, but temerity may be disastrous." You might want to look up the definition of "temerity" in the dictionary if you don't already know it. You have definitely made a wise call so far; please don't mess it up, and above all, never get down on yourself for exercising reasonable caution, or even erring on the side of caution. Sometimes these calls can be difficult, but I think this time the NWAC has covered our asses on that point. Among the dozen good friends of mine who've died in the mountains, were several who would virtually never turn back, no matter what, and others who thought they could "push the mountain" or force the conditions.

You don't have to be as high as traversing beneath Old Chute or the Pearly Gates to be in the line of fire. I've been peppered pretty good a number of times by stuff comming off of Crater Rock, well before getting up onto the Hogsback. Regarding the NWAC forecast, note that it advises not to be lulled into a false sense of security just because "high" avalanche probability is forecast for Wed. and Thurs., but that "significant" avalanche conditions are expected to persist through the weekend. And, even if the forecast were for "moderate" or even "low" probability, an avalanche occurring under a forecast of lesser danger will still mangle and suffocate you just as well as one occurring under "high" or "extreme" conditions. Even KGW meteorologist Matt Zaffino discussed Mt.Hood avalanche conditions on this evening's news, noting that there's been over 2 feet of new snow at the higher elevations over the last two days, and that the temperature gradient will be ascending over the weekend, producing what could be a steadily increasing threat over the weekend, in spite of normal settling day by day. I'd be goddamn careful and pay close attention to the NWAC forecast; I know it's been a long winter and we're all going stir crazy; but the mountain will still be there another weekend, under more favorable conditions, and it's a pretty simple matter to ensure that you'll still be here, too, by waiting for a better day and not trying to push the mountain. Myself, I'll be skiing the groomed this weekend. Above all, I'd recommend against attempting to solo the mountain under these conditions. Under this forecast, any avalanche will be wet, heavy snow, which will pack a tremendous wallop, quickly attaining great speed, and will immediately set up like concrete once it stops. There will be no question of trying to outrun, outski, "swim" or wade through this kind of slide--ridiculous notions in any avalanche scenario. Caught in such a slide, you'll come to a stop with arms and legs twisted in all kinds of crazy angles, mouth,nostrils,eyes and ears completely plugged with snow, instantly immobilized, hardly able to move even a finger. Your only chance would be that a partner or partners managed to avoid be caught, immediately noted your last position and possible direction and distance of fall, and are already initiating a beacon search with all possible haste. In lighter powder conditions, you could have up to ten or fifteen minutes before suffocating; in wet snow conditions, you may have five minutes, or even less if the speed and weight of the mass has managed to compress your chest and literally crush the life out of you. And if you and your friends haven't been practicing your search and recovery skills,your chances decline further; or if you're carrying dinky plastic T-handle shovels instead of strong solid metal shovels and good beefy probes, the way this stuff is likely to solidify will make it very difficult to dig to you even if you are located. The reason I can write this is because I was extremely lucky many years ago; part of one red-gloved hand was left showing and I was with 3 strong friends who saw where I disappeared and got me out in a big hurry, digging by hand. Even then it was a very near thing. It will instill huge respect for the mountain.

Odd; foot and leg still attached?

They don't call it "Stone" Gardens for nothing...

Talk to Dr. Ira Weintraub, a very highly regarded and highly qualified orthopedist/climber/skier. He himself does not do backs, but he can accurately evaluate you and refer you to the best person for your particular problem. His clinic is on NW 22nd and Pettygrove, and he's listed in the phone book.

Pretty good tale.

Talk to Wayne 1112; he's been there.

Latest news is that original death toll from Mexico is only 15, not 150, who actually died from this new swine or H1N1 virus. The other 135 fatalities were not due to the swine flu. Still kind of a complicated picture, as Mexico has now ceased releasing any new figures or totals of how many new cases there are. And yes, REM still sucks; duct tape in that pic is in the wrong location--it should be over Stipe's mouth. Send that whiny fucker to cafe sensitivioso. Great story,though, Ivan.

Wow, lots of great advice there, from Monty, Rocky, Skeezix and dharmabum. I didn't know about the Tyson/Loomis book, is it pretty recent?; the one I have is by David Fasulo, in the How to Rock Climb series pub. by Chockstone press, illustrated by Mike Clelland. And absolutely,get a partner, go out there, take the book with you, and set that stuff up, spend all the time you need to really get it down, and then keep refreshing it. I look back on some of the stuff we got ourselves into years ago, knowing almost nothing of self-rescue, and am just amazed at how stupidly lucky we were. As far as Kerouac's The Dharma Bums is concerned, you bet; one can only bow to the Buddha in gratitude, with a peaceful smile. "These mountains and rivers of the present are the actual realization of the Way of the Old Buddhas. Each, abiding in dharma state, possesses universal virtue." --Dogen Zenji, The Mountains and Rivers Sutra "All true paths lead through mountains." --Gary Snyder

Wise choice, grasshoppa... Now pinching a loaf in a theater near you.

Years ago I used to work for an outfitter in Wyoming who sleepwalked. Every once in awhile he'd get us up in the middle of the night, 1 or 2 AM, all dressed and ready to go, saying,"C'mon, we gotta get the trip out", but he was sound asleep. He once got up in the middle of the night while staying in a hotel in Vegas, went out and got in his car and drove off in his pajamas. He woke up behind the wheel when someone honked at him.

T.M. Herbert of Yosemite fame followed an excellent beginner's path on the way to his later highly respected status, by doing dozens of moderates in the low 5th class range all over the West, many of them first ascents. His name is on climbs from the Bighorns, Sawtooths and Tetons,to the Cascades and Sierras. It's a great way to develop and hone basic skills, conditioning and confidence, routefinding abilities, the art of protection and anchors, good safety habits, on relatively forgiving ground, before moving on to more difficult,serious and challenging things. A worthy and enjoyable apprenticeship, not without its dangers, as with any climb, but at a realistic and manageable level for new climbers. Read Hermann Buhl's autobiography, "Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage", for another perspective on the progression of a young and fiery climber into a cool-headed master alpinist.(Lots of stories about what NOT to do). Also read Heidi Pesterfield's excellent book "Traditional Lead Climbing:Surviving the Learning Years"; "On Snow and Rock" by Gaston Rebuffat, Arno Ilgner's great book "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers", and finally, if you can find it, "Care and consciousness in Climbing" by Pat Ament.

Coleman Glacier Headwall on Baker, Nisqually Icefall late season on Rainier, N. Face Burgundy Spire, the "Wine Spires"(Chianti, Chablis,Pernod), Backbone Ridge-Dragontail, South face of Cathedral Peak, Cruel Finger,the Flagpole,other Nightmare Needles, N. Face of Bear Mt., East Wilman's Spire.