Bug

How is the road past Marblemount to the approach to Eldorado / Sahalee Arm?

I couldn't find anything on Rainier on that site. But I am interested in a Gibraltar ledges climb. Three is a good number in my opinion. I would be up for getting a plan together and talking about style, speed, gear, etc.

But was it fun? And "No." You would have kicked a total stranger in the nads. At that point, it would have been appropriate to say "And welcome to CC.COM ya F'n wanker!" I was invited to a differrent bivy experience. No toothbush. Currently it is about 0 here in Missoula. Blodgett falls is in. Stewart Peak is frosted like there is champagne powder up there. Must make a decision.

The PM didn't make it. Go ahead and sell it on Ebay. I see a few of those go by and I will not use it until summer.

They do all the time. It never gets reported.

I sent you a PM and an email awhile ago.

I have bivwacked in many modes. It is a term used to cover anything from sleeping in the girl's dorm without a toothbrush to throwing out a sleeping bag in the ranger's yard near camp 4, to hanging in a hammock on the face of a cliff whether planned or not. It seems to mean spending the night minimally prepared. Many of us find it enjoyable even if it involves a little shivering. But to each his own.

$10mil puts it in the public eye. We wouldn't have heard about it otherwise and the Park service would be less inclined to settle. These suits rarely win and this one has little chance. He most likely accomplished what he wanted by getting the PS to cough up the records and service history in a very public way.

On first reading, it disgusts me profoundly that this second generation rock climber who introduced his son to climbing at age 9,would sue the NPS to blame them for a rockfall. However, maybe we should take his words at face value: he's not looking for money, or to put a stop to climbing in the Valley. He just wants to know, to borrow a term from political investigations, "What did the NPS know and when did they know it?" But the only way for him to get this information was to file a claim; hence the claim. I wish for everyone's sake that the NPS had been willing to just let him read the memos without filing a lawsuit first. He probably would have been satisfied with some intervention far short of a lawsuit in that case. Dru replied: "maybe cause i am a geoscientist but i kind of come down on the fathers side a bit - if, by pumping sewage into cracks, the nps increased the rockfall rate in Yos above its long term natural level- then they fucked up big time and they should stop, and if it takes a lawsuit to make them stop then so be it. at the level of an individual event though its pretty hard to prove or disprove causation, and anyways when you climb you accept the risks. but this could be likened to someone trundling boulders down on you as you climb a mountain somewhere - rockfall is normal but a boulder trundled at you by a person is not normal risk. " Having worked against the FS and Park Service, it became obvious that they have a distinct DISDAIN for working with the public on policy issues. They clearly want us to stay out of their hair and will go to great lengths to deny us the information they are obligated to provide under the Freedom of Information Act. They assume an adversarial stance and then wonder why people file law suits. I would take the father at his word.

Your panties seem twisted.

I may be up there too. Please don't kick me in the balls.

First off, Paris Hilton would be a useless ice cube before any accident or bivy occurred. Second, no mp3 would be loud enough to drown out her whining. Third, a half-assed blowjob is only going to get you cold. So here is what I take to be prepared for forced-bivys; 1. Whicking under layer (top and bottom). 2. whicking second layer(top only). 3. medium pile layer(top and bottom). 4. Gortex (top and bottom). 5. dry socks. 6. insulated jacket and pants that fit under my goretex (I got second hand Moonstone polarguard 3D). 7. Good hat (I like fleece lined wool). 8. neck gaitor. 9. small closed cell pad in pack. 10. pocket rocket @ small pot. 11. lighter 12. headlamp 13. Tape & a few gauze pads. 14. Sharp knife (for cutting kindling shavings, clothing from bleedouts,emergency apendectomies). 15. 4 or 5 small fire starters (i tie string in a small bundle and dip it in wax a few times). 16. matches (well sealed). 17. extra food.

Damn good post.

I am free for Dec 26-30 and would entertain many options. I would prefer to go into the North Cascades on skiis and climb an ice coulior or two.

What size is it?

I didn't read the other posts, but I will say this. I can think of very few reasons or places to own a synthetic bag and the PNW isn't one of them. "how do you keep your down bag dry" you ask? simple, a waterproof stuff sac (<2 oz). You keep it in the wp stuff sac until your tent is set up. get in your tent, take bag out of stuff sac, sleep, repack, repeat. its so simple, I really don't understand why people have problems?? maybe I have been lucky that my tent hasn't blown apart during a rain storm? I don't know. It seems pretty simple from my end. The longer I am out, the more I appreciate synthetic. This is especially true if I am linking long days where I am going to bed damp from sweating. Anything past 3 nights and down starts losing it's loft pretty noticably. There is also the condensation inside the tent to deal with. But I know people who make down work for them. I throw in a synthetic bag and do not have to worry about how wet it gets under almost any conditions.

Spill Chelle.

That was some BADDASS soccer!

Adams is a great first volcanoe. South Ridge is pure trudge. North Ridge is a little more remote and technical but still pretty straight forward. And there is a great snowfield near the bottom of it to the west. Practice self arrest (take your crampons off) Pull a friend up several meters using a Z system. Try to stay warm. Dig a snow cave. Poop in a blizzard. Enjoy.

We are in the BEGINNING stages of the darkest period of American history. Our government is all but completely controlled by corporate interests. The American public will be looked upon by history as willing stooges. It is corporate fascism. Get used to it. Or vote.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Si. But stay to the lake side of the face as you get lower.

In Europe there are people who actually make a comfortable living climbing and guiding. It is a very different scene. Here in America, climbers are just another variation on fun bums and will grow up to get a real job some day. It takes it's toll on the expertise of our guides in general.

Shiver me timbers. I need a Tums...

When Lynn Hill was going to reach the age of consent.