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Bug

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Everything posted by Bug

  1. What was the Colchuck glacier like? Melted out to ice or was there some snow left on it? Anyone been on it more recently?
  2. Newbie will be on crampons for the first time this weekend. I am wondering if Colchuck is totally melted out to ice or is there some (how much?) soft snow left? Thanks.
  3. Please encourage the parties involved to post an account of what they did and why and what they "should" have done. These sorts of things are very useful teachers. I gained a great deal of good information from 'Climbing Accidents of North America' and learned many valuable lessons from my own stupid misdeeds.
  4. I have a boat trailer 18'3" X 6'6" I need to store. It can be a yard, a driveway, a garage...I don't care as long as it does not get towed, stolen or otherwise molested. I'll pay $20 a month.
  5. Because the other way is better. Stash a mtn bike at teh Stuart Lk trailhead and hike in the Snow creek th. You get the whole tour and a great bike ride.
  6. This thread isn't dead until there is profanity, threats, and high blood pressure. Good climbing!
  7. Ignore all posts that end with a Including this one? If I ignore this one, then I can't ignore the others, right? A some point you must rely on faith alone. And the energy of one large hamburger.
  8. The climber is not climbing unless he has followed an established route. He can reference a transcendental experience by recording a first ascent.
  9. Didn't I just say that? Ed is a big boy. He can dish it out too. Open forum rules apply. Thank you for playing with us.
  10. Ancient Eskimo artists would "live" with a piece of soapstone long enough for it to communicate what "spirit" was inside it waiting to be revealed. Does this negate the artistry of the "freer of the spirit"? The stone's "destiny" was simply exposed. The artist would then "free" the spirit by dropping it on the beach. Incredible carvings have been found this way. In Islam, the mystics believe that the origin of all things was a Dot so small as to be incomprehensible. This "Dot" gained conciousness and self awareness and then loneliness. Eventually, It envisioned other beings and thus "relationship". As It continued to contemplate the possibilities, It developed "love" for Its creation. This "Love" became so overwhelming that it "poured forth" and created the Aleph. Aleph is the first character in the Arabic alphabet which was created by the cousins and uncles of Muhammed to record the verses of the Quran Muhammed was "channelling". The Aleph is also considered the "Pen" by which all other characters were created and thus the world. In Christianity, fate vs free will, is the question being discussed here. If everything is pre-ordained then we are only following our intended path and are not inherently evil. If we were "created" for "relationship" then we had to have been given "free will" and the real power to say "NO". This allows the infinate variation of human initiated potentialities in all human endeavors. To "follow God's path in all things" could be argued to be canceling the individuality we were created to provide. Thus, a chipped hold is just as much an expression of relationship with God as a pre-existing line being followed. Good vs Evil on cc.com?
  11. Speak for yourself. I'm in this for me. Sucka. Prick! But thanks for keeping the cc.com "edge" alive. When I read the first post I considered the possibility of the missing party attempting a descent of the North side. Later, they were not seen by anyone after LJT on the south side so it had to be considered even though it was unlikely. Nolse's info WAS useful if a little cavaleer under the circumstances.
  12. Well since this is cc.com n all, I just have to call bullshit on you. I cannot think of a way the rope would have slid or moved if it were pinched in the gate. I think you found the gate unscrewed and got mad about that. Many people have used apposing gates without including a locking biner at all. Obviously, it would be better to use a locking biner and lock it. But I think , if I am right about your story, you were pissing about a minor but notable infraction. Sorry to offend. It just does not seem logical. May ALL of your climbs end safely.
  13. Anyone who climbs and says they are not in it for the adrenaline is in denial. I go along with the contention by some that adrenaline is not the primary driver in all instances but it certainly plays a part in all instances. If you disagree, tell me why you do not walk up the back side instead. I love the mountains for many reasons and I certainly am enjoying hanging with my larvae in the high meadows and blue lakes. But the steep places still pull at me. I used to think it was for mastery or purety of technique but now that I have been pretty much away from it for a long time, I have to admit that it is the unknowns that make it interesting. Climbing known routes is still fun and all but I cut my teeth doing first ascents in Montana and THAT is what I really miss. "Descend the obvious gulley" is good style for a guide writer. It keeps the full bodied spirit of the sport alive. If you know you are going to summit every time you are probably backpacking.
  14. Just watch out for the goat poo.
  15. If yur seein clearly, you haven't been here long.
  16. I'm glad I have a good foundation for having group sex. For the record, I would like to add that I have NEVER had group sex. Maybe I've just been too eager. bug-- there are pills and "techniques" to stop you from being "too eager" Please send all propositions by PM.
  17. I'm glad I have a good foundation for having group sex. For the record, I would like to add that I have NEVER had group sex. Maybe I've just been too eager.
  18. I climb because it is now a part of who I am. With kids in the picture, I do not climb as much simply because they require time doing things with me that are of their chosing. When long periods go by in which I have not climbed, I miss it but I always know I will get out again. The risk factor is mitigated by more conservative measures including route selection, weather, protection placement, runouts, etc. I try to keep my puruits in the realm of being safer than driving 405 every day. I think I achieve that. This in no way means I think I am immune to objective hazards. They are what define risk after 30+ years of climbing. I just take extra care to keep them at bay and keep focused on what I can control. If I die on the freeway, my daughters will be just as sad but would they say that I should never have driven to work? I do not think so. The balance of a climber's tragedy is between who he was and who he would have been without climbing. It hurts to lose a climbing friend but I would not have known them the way I did without climbing. My condolences to those who knew any of the climbers who died yesterday.
  19. Bug

    Close Calls

    Upon reaching the base of the climb, we discovered the bud was still at our last stop. While walking over to the edge to assess how long it would take to retrieve it, we stumbled upon a film canister probably dropped from on high.
  20. Good time to review our safety measures and risk tollerance. The pull is a given and will not go away.
  21. Don't get so personal. Nice TR and the followup pics are great too.
  22. I liked the west face of the Mole. There are lots of routes to do over there and they are in a unique place (edwards? platue). I did see several other people over there too so beta was easy to come by.
  23. Right on. If you want to get in a few leg warmups, there is always Mt Si which I find very boring but a great workout. Jog it. A better place is McClellan Butte. Start at the lower trailhead or the upper. Check it out on a map. There are some places to potentially get lost. The upper trailhead can be difficult to see. Annette lake trail is good. So is the rail to lake Serene but that is up highway 2. The others are all up 90 nearer Sammamish. Also see the Talapus lake trail and beyond (up I90). I sometimes do what you said in a previous post, haul water up and pour it out for the cruise down. Those muscle groups for hauling a pig up steeps are very specific. If you do not train them well you can easily pull them on a Rainier climb.
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