Bug

Thursday Eve. Workman's Tavern in Redmond. 7PM. Pool tables, burgers, easy to find.

Check out the latest report on aliens in Peru; http://news.yahoo.com/s/space/20070919/sc_space/scientistsdoubtmeteoritesickenedperuvians After that, check out OJ Simpson's defense team. The guy with no teeth is hilarious. After that, there is a clip on a guy climbing in a chimney, getting rescued and then graffic footage of him getting thwacked by his girlfriend. My only question is, how was the sex?

Thanks for the clarification. Any more pics?

Holy Crap! Did you see that pic of Wolf in his kayak on the Middlefork? No pfd or helmet. He must think we're all wankers. Thanks Lowell.

And you sound like such a nice guy. I don't get it.

That was a joke. I was actually 16 and it was in Chemistry class. By the time physics lab rolled around, I did too. We had a substitute sitting in the front corner reading a book while we watched a movie. I sat by the projector and moved it side to side so I could watch the heads turn in unison. After that we put up a cloud in the Rattlesnake valley to Jimmi and Van Morrison. I would probably miss the seventies but I don't remember them.

Thats the gulley to the west of CC. Cut right off the rounded tree-covered mound at about 7K. If you are going out Longs Pass it is the best bet. It drops you straight at the Longs Pass trail. There is a trail on most of it and a lot of sand so it is a softer descent.

Nice pics. Pan out next time.

Reminds me of a trip to JT with a friend who I used to do first ascents with in the Bitterroots. We were both married with kids etc and were just getting back together for a fun trip to see if we could still climb. When we were down in Hidden Valley CG we ended up camping with a group of young climbers from Missoula. They recognized our names from the local Missoula guide books and we had fun exchanging stories about the Bitterroots. The next day, they invited us to go climb with them but we knew we were just setting ourselves up for total humiliation. So we made up some lame excuse and hid in Echo canyon.

Is that the one about humility being the finest virtue of the gentleman climber, I love that one. No. Why? How about a "real" book? Desperate Journeys and Abandoned Souls. Seriously, check it out. It is about "The Will to Survive".

'Me, a Chest Beat.' Search on 'Bug'.

In 1963, I was awakened by my father and taken outside with the rest of my family. Most of the neighborhood was out there on the street looking up at a commonly described UFO. It was cigar shaped, had red and green lights along its side and was hovering about 1000' above Missoula. It moved slowly to the west over the course of about 20 minutes then abruptly turned south and upwards and streaked into space. This is a memory I do not know what to do with. At age 4, I had not yet done hallucinagenics. Those came in 65. Besides, my family and I talked about it last July. We all just shook our heads and moved on to the next subject. To this day, nothing has jumped out of my chest although my father has severe chest pains.

Great post.

I just came down it this weekend. Watch the loose scree around the snowfield. Especially watch if there is anyone above you.

Johnny why did you let Suzie fall to her death? She called me stupid.

I searched the summit for 45 minutes and did not find it.

Nope. My kids are not doing that.

Check out this post. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/722323/page/2#Post722323

4 weeks till Rope Up. This is a great place to hook up with other newbies and get some good ideas from experienced climbers. There are always a couple of experienced climbers who are willing to go out with you and climb things. I put it this way because there are no coaches or teachers bearing responsibility for your safety. You have to pay attention etc, participate in the safety techniques, and take full responsibility for your own actions. Sunday morning, not early, I will go up the R&D Route on Icicle Buttress if anyone is interested. The R&D route is 4 easy pitches (5.6). Or we can veer into more difficult terrain if you want to (5.8). It is a great first muti-pitch climb. The protection is great, the rock is clean, the ledges are huge, and the over-all quality is very high for an easy route. All you need are shoes and a harness (helmet recommended). Think about it and PM me if you are interested.

4 weeks till Rope Up. This is a great place to hook up with other newbies and get some good ideas from experienced climbers. There are always a couple of experienced climbers who are willing to go out with you and climb things. I put it this way because there are no coaches or teachers bearing responsibility for your safety. You have to pay attention etc, participate in the safety techniques, and take full responsibility for your own actions. Sunday morning, not early, I will go up the R&D Route on Icicle Buttress if anyone is interested. The R&D route is 4 easy pitches (5.6). Or we can veer into more difficult terrain if you want to (5.8). It is a great first muti-pitch climb. The protection is great, the rock is clean, the ledges are huge, and the over-all quality is very high for an easy route. All you need are shoes and a harness (helmet recommended). Think about it and PM me if you are interested.

4 weeks till Rope Down. Bump. Gotcher gear outa the closet yet? For you newbies, there is always a couple of experienced climbers who are willing to go out with you and climb things. Sunday morning, not early, I will go up the R&D Route on Icicle Buttress if anyone is interested. The R&D route is 4 easy pitches (5.6). Or we can veer into more difficult terrain if you want to (5.8). It is a great first muti-pitch climb. The protection is great, the rock is clean, and the over-all quality is very high for an easy route. All you need are shoes and a harness. Think about it and PM me if you are interested.

I ent on the pink line. I think the green line goes too but I haven't done it.

Trip: Another West Ridge of Stuart TR. - Third gulley east of west arete . Date: 9/14/2007 Trip Report: Nothing says "Friday" like a trip to the mountains. Mer-bear was sick so I bailed out of work to pick her up at school. Soon after, I tracked down her mom in a seedy bar on 1st Ave and reminded her she was supposed to be on duty that day. An I don't mean "Workin". But it was an amicable divorce. Wait a minute,...thread drift. So now I had Friday off. Hmmmm. Let's see, I'm already packed for a trip to Stuart. Should I go back to work or go climb Stuart? I know. I'll flip a coin. OK, two out of three. Well shit, coins are all probability anyway and I "probably" wouldn't get any work done at this point. Now that's a clear case of counteracting probabilities, otherwise known as the theory of realatve realities, as in, it's REALLY important to me right now. Besides, I was almost to Snoqualmie pass at this point. So I parked, and peed, packed, and plodded and found myself looking at the WR of Stuart in no time. Since I had done the WR in a day 13 years ago I didn't want to do the same route again. So I traversed over to the third gully which rises directly to the base of Long John Tower. It was probably overall a little more work than going up the second gully but it was new to me. Actually, it was so much like the other gulley I experienced gulley drift. I kept looking for the exit to the the right but was constanly blocked by large walls of glistening granite (hint hint). Eventually, it started to glow all around me and knew I hadn't smoked anything so I stopped for the night on a ledge about 300' below LJT. It wasn't the best alpinglow ever but it was worth another pic. So then the stars came out. One shot by at warp speed right after dinner was gone. The next thing I remember was first light which I ignored. About 8AM I got up, ate and proceeded toward the summit. As I was climbing up into the notch on LJT, I dropped a pink water bottle. If you find it, drink the water (it was treated with iodine) but please return the bottle before my daughter figures out is has been stolen. I followed the standard route to the top of the heap above LJT and around the horn and back down the right of the crest to the summit notch. There I found a little ice to fortify my dwindling supplies. I also paused long enough to put on my climbing shoes, harness and rack up (all 7 pieces) and get my brand new hot pink 30m 8mm 1/2 rope ready. I know, pink seems like a theme here. I'm not coming out of the closet, I just have daughters who need to feel included in the gear purchases. So anyway, I continued up the standard route going up right from the notch then veering left around to the north side and up through the notch past a fixed stopper and a fixed pin. Then I veered right across the west face then left then far right almost all the way over to the crest of the S Ridge. From here it was straight up through ledges and finally a corner with twin cracks. There was a fixed pin about 15' feet off the ledge so I clipped into that with both ends of the 8mm string, and clipped into a fig8 on each one. I gave myself about 10' of slack and climbed up about 8'. There, I put in two stoppers and tied the ropes into them. I also took off my pack and set it on a ledge. Then I put two prussicks on the rope at different lengths (NO THEY WERE NOT IN MY PACK) and clipped into those. Then I down climbed to the pin and unclipped my rope and climbed back up. From there it was just a few feet to the summit. I give you all this beta because too many people talk about climbing 5.9 on this route. There isn't any. It's 5.4-5.6. Just follow Becky's description and it works out fine. Once on the summit I started hearing voices. I was relieved to see two guys approaching from the Cascadian. It was Jared and friend. I did not find the wedding ring but looked carefully for about 45 minutes. There are a lot of rusty cans up there. And used to be some gear left in cracks. I descended via the false summit and down the snowfield where I dislodged one 25 pound rock from the loose scree. It was gone before I had a chance to catch it and was doing 50' bounces the last time I saw it. With the snowfield getting really small, the stuff underneath it is really loose. Be careful following anyone up there. I dropped down the coliour west of Cascadian from the treed mound at 7000. It dropped straight toward Long's pass and had a scratched out trail all the way down. I found water in a gulley just into the trees and came down to the Ingalls trail right at the junction with the Longs Pass trail. I bumped into Jared and friend there too but then they were gone. It was good to get out and test my knee on a long route. I had been out of climbing all summer due to tendonitis. This is a classic route to cruise. Take lots of water. Gear Notes: When I was climbing a lot, all I took were climbing shoes and water. This time, I took the kitchen sink. 30m 8mm 1/2 rope. 7 stoppers and four slings. Bivy gear. Approach Notes: Drive a lot then keep walking.

Trip: Another West Ridge of Stuart TR. - Third gulley east of west arete . Date: 9/14/2007 Trip Report: Nothing says "Friday" like a trip to the mountains. Mer-bear was sick so I bailed out of work to pick her up at school. Soon after, I tracked down her mom in a seedy bar on 1st Ave and reminded her she was supposed to be on duty that day. An I don't mean "Workin". But it was an amicable divorce. Wait a minute,...thread drift. So now I had Friday off. Hmmmm. Let's see, I'm already packed for a trip to Stuart. Should I go back to work or go climb Stuart? I know. I'll flip a coin. OK, two out of three. Well shit, coins are all probability anyway and I "probably" wouldn't get any work done at this point. Now that's a clear case of counteracting probabilities, otherwise known as the theory of realatve realities, as in, it's REALLY important to me right now. Besides, I was almost to Snoqualmie pass at this point. So I parked, and peed, packed, and plodded and found myself looking at the WR of Stuart in no time. Since I had done the WR in a day 13 years ago I didn't want to do the same route again. So I traversed over to the third gully which rises directly to the base of Long John Tower. It was probably overall a little more work than going up the second gully but it was new to me. Actually, it was so much like the other gulley I experienced gulley drift. I kept looking for the exit to the the right but was constanly blocked by large walls of glistening granite (hint hint). Eventually, it started to glow all around me and knew I hadn't smoked anything so I stopped for the night on a ledge about 300' below LJT. It wasn't the best alpinglow ever but it was worth another pic. So then the stars came out. One shot by at warp speed right after dinner was gone. The next thing I remember was first light which I ignored. About 8AM I got up, ate and proceeded toward the summit. As I was climbing up into the notch on LJT, I dropped a pink water bottle. If you find it, drink the water (it was treated with iodine) but please return the bottle before my daughter figures out is has been stolen. I followed the standard route to the top of the heap above LJT and around the horn and back down the right of the crest to the summit notch. There I found a little ice to fortify my dwindling supplies. I also paused long enough to put on my climbing shoes, harness and rack up (all 7 pieces) and get my brand new hot pink 30m 8mm 1/2 rope ready. I know, pink seems like a theme here. I'm not coming out of the closet, I just have daughters who need to feel included in the gear purchases. So anyway, I continued up the standard route going up right from the notch then veering left around to the north side and up through the notch past a fixed stopper and a fixed pin. Then I veered right across the west face then left then far right almost all the way over to the crest of the S Ridge. From here it was straight up through ledges and finally a corner with twin cracks. There was a fixed pin about 15' feet off the ledge so I clipped into that with both ends of the 8mm string, and clipped into a fig8 on each one. I gave myself about 10' of slack and climbed up about 8'. There, I put in two stoppers and tied the ropes into them. I also took off my pack and set it on a ledge. Then I put two prussicks on the rope at different lengths (NO THEY WERE NOT IN MY PACK) and clipped into those. Then I down climbed to the pin and unclipped my rope and climbed back up. From there it was just a few feet to the summit. I give you all this beta because too many people talk about climbing 5.9 on this route. There isn't any. It's 5.4-5.6. Just follow Becky's description and it works out fine. Once on the summit I started hearing voices. I was relieved to see two guys approaching from the Cascadian. It was Jared and friend. I did not find the wedding ring but looked carefully for about 45 minutes. There are a lot of rusty cans up there. And used to be some gear left in cracks. I descended via the false summit and down the snowfield where I dislodged one 25 pound rock from the loose scree. It was gone before I had a chance to catch it and was doing 50' bounces the last time I saw it. With the snowfield getting really small, the stuff underneath it is really loose. Be careful following anyone up there. I dropped down the coliour west of Cascadian from the treed mound at 7000. It dropped straight toward Long's pass and had a scratched out trail all the way down. I found water in a gulley just into the trees and came down to the Ingalls trail right at the junction with the Longs Pass trail. I bumped into Jared and friend there too but then they were gone. It was good to get out and test my knee on a long route. I had been out of climbing all summer due to tendonitis. This is a classic route to cruise. Take lots of water. Gear Notes: When I was climbing a lot, all I took were climbing shoes and water. This time, I took the kitchen sink. 30m 8mm 1/2 rope. 7 stoppers and four slings. Bivy gear. Approach Notes: Drive a lot then keep walking.

Nice TR. Thanks for posting it. I had not ever looked at that peak before.