rock-ice

Faders Climbing I'm kind of confused by the size differnce, but Faders biners are lighter than many other brands. Smoothest clipping biners in my humble opinion. See if you can't find your's on their site. Where did you pick them up at, they might be designed for construction or the like? Good Luck.

So shinny it looks like the knife might get in the way of a keeper cord though.

Yeah, its a real pain to get to that thing. You have to drop maybe 500-1000 feet off the "trail" to get to it. As I remember it was real cliffy too. There is a smaller lake south and west of high pass, near where the trail dead ends. A trip report from earlier this year if you have any q's feel free to ask. when and what are you planning on doing in the area?

I have a similar problem. I just finished building a bouldering wall in my gargage and normally don't pull plastic. I've got flappers all over the place. Whats the best thing to do for flappers?

Mesner used to take cold showers for a month before each major climb. On winter climbs I try not to reach for the gloves until I really need them. Each time I think its a little easier. In one of my classes I learned that the way our body reacts to certain climes is based on our experience, so I think letting them suffer a bit will make you feel warmer in other instances. Sorry I have no real info.

Is there anything wrong with using two 10mm (or 10.5mm) ropes in a double rope configuration? I don't want to waste $200 on a set of doubles or twins that I won't use more than 3 or 4 times a year. Thanks.

Its 100 percent staged. its taken maybe 20 yards away from the class 2 scramble up Pinnacle peak. I remember thinking the same thing when I reconginzed the location.

hey, I saw you yesterday. I was the young guy with all the newbies. I was bouldering most of the time. I'll say hi next time i see you. This place is sweet. No gym could possible have enough bouldering space, but since the staff is planning on changing the routes every month, i don't think boredom will be a problem.

Should be up there later this week and will leave a note. Thanks.

Got in a few pitches this morning before the crowds arrived. Found some perscription glasses sitting on the bench near the pit toilet. They should be very easy to describe. Contact via PM or email please.

Climbed it today. Its definitely not down to the WI yet, but nonetheless a fun climb. Couple weeks until its in true form.

trad? sport? scrambling?

Found two fairly well worn ropes at Fee Demo Wall. We had been climbing at FDW all day and hadn't seen a single car at the lot, or person at the wall. If they were left on purpose I'm sorry, simply contact me. It didn't feel right, the way the were tied in, and the wear on the knots lead me to believe they had been there for sometime. -Michael

Climb: Fortress -> Buck -Buck Creek Scramblefest Date of Climb: 8.12-14.2004 Trip Report: Thursday morning my long time instructor of all things peak bagging, Eric Willhite, woke me up with the sounds of his shufling feet. Before I was truly conscious we were in the car. We left the Buck Creek TH around 10o'clock. Already we could tell it was going to be a warm day. At each creek crossing for the next three days we paused to dunk our heads and Dozer, Eric's malamute, would lay down, pack and all in the cool water. Dozer at packwood lake last year. We dumped our gear a couple hundred feet below Pass No Pass, left Dozer with some water and headed up the heather slopes of Fortress. If you take any line through the heather and then talus slopes you should be ok. Keep some what to the right hand side of the face. It will become very clear why when you see the wonderful snow patch hidden on this side. The snow is a welcome break from the choss all around. At the top of it resume grovelling up a particularly loose gully. From here slant left towards the summit. Just below the top Eric was on a ledge traversing left and he knocked his head. When I arrived on top he had blood down one side of his face. It wasn't too bad but looked really cool. Some happy birthday. This was kind of ironic because whenever I would comment on how small his pack was he would say, "what do you think I'm carrying a first aid kit or somthing?" The next day we moved further along the trail to Buck Creek pass, from where we took the High Pass trail East and South. Along the way to high pass we scrambled up Liberty Cap (10 minutes off the trail) and Mt. Cleator. The top of Cleator was invested with these horrible red flying ants, which we hadn't seen until that point. Since it was only 11 we decided that we would move up our plans to climb Berge and Buck, so instead of climbing them the next day on our way out we figured we'd cruse up and bag them. We left Doze to swim and sleep at a tarn Southwest of High Pass. A short traverse and a 1000 foot climb found us sitting perplexed atop Berge's South Ridge. After much discussion we concluded Berge's true summit lay to the Northwest across a small basin. Scrambling to the summit was a blast, but we wern' there long for the fire ants owned this mountain top as well. With that we dropped the 1000 feet we had gained in order to reach Buck's Eastern slopes. We hydrated at a small creek which drops Precipitously to the East towards the valley floor. The slog up to a centraly located gap is fairly simple despite some tricky looking bits. Just stay to the middle of the face and you'll be ok. At this gap there was a lot of confusion about which summit was the highest finally we concluded it was the middle one. I am not yet sure it was the true summit, but it was certainly higher that the North summit. The view of Buck's many summits. Klenke's picture from the gallery. By the time we dropped back down to the valley floor the sun was beginning to set, which made the climb back over and then down Berge's south ridge a little more bearable. That night I kept Eric up with my shivering. I didn't want to be burdend with a bag and thought a bivy sac would be enough. So at first light we were gone. We reach the car around noon. Day One: 5,874 Elevation Gain Day Two: 5,666+ Elevation Gain Something like 35 miles on and off trail Gear Notes: Had: Ice Axe Crampons (didn't use) Bivy sac Shoulda had: Camera sleeping bag Approach Notes: Plenty of water along the trail to Buck Creek Pass, but there is very little from there until just before High Pass. This would be a very unpleasant traverse in September when the snowfields have finally stopped giving water.

awsome shot!

Beyond fee demo wall (big thanks to the developers) what else is there in the area? Is there any developement going on currently? Thanks for any info. Seems like its not a far drive to escape the weekend E 38 crowds.

how many interesting stories begin this way. it could be the beginning of a joke

abc huevos only $55.04 (no shipping ) Its kind of funny, they auctions these off at ebay with this as the starting price. Coincidence?

Yeah, the cops around here don't look on that too friendly...

No harm meant but i think it had something to do with the fact that at least one of the climbers on rainier was from the east coast (maine i think). to a speedy recovery.

don't buy any of them at retail, you could get them for much less. just look around. use froogle.com to help. great packs by the way...

Thanks for the beta. Good write up. Definitely anwsered some question.

Ditto. I got 10 for $75.

read some articles by lightwiegh backpackers. they have it down to a science. it may have been stated above but knowing how to use what you have is the most important thing. get trained if you can.

mailbox peak?