rock-ice

Trip: Cascade Mountain (South Wasatch) - Grr Couloir Date: 11/22/2010 Trip Report: Snow couloirs, with a few exceptions, are the closest thing we have to alpine ice here in the Wasatch. I have been eye-ing the couloirs on Cascade for a while as a couple of them seemed from the topo to be fairly steep. The one we chose, Grr Couloir, was only around 35 degrees on average, providing a good workout, but not the steeper ice we were looking for. The search continues. . . Note: This isn't my photo (borrowed from summitpost) and we were climbing in more winter like conditions. I'm freezing my but off in the 30-50mph gusts. Mike says, "Where's the hard climbing?" All complaining about routes aside, we were glad to get out and have mountains so close. Gear Notes: Helmet, crampons, ice axe. Approach Notes: Hike up rock canyon, through the campground and north up Squaw Peak Road (3.5 miles, 2100 feet to here). Then bushwhack for 15 minutes.

I'd bet it is pretty buried by now. Moreover, the road is closed . You might think about something in the Tatoosh. It looks like it has been pretty consistently below freezing at Paradise from this weather page. When the sun comes up again the Tatoosh Range cam will probably be the most informative, though. I keep in mind the northwest face of castle peak, north ridge of pinnacle or any of the three couliors on Lane.

Keep the TRs coming, some of us peak baggers enjoy reading them. For how often you get out you should really invest in a digital camera!

I would add the South Rib of Guye peak to your list, particularly if you do not have a lot of time. The difficulty varies according to your desires and it is very straight forward.

I made the jaunt over to West Defiance, but I definitely wasn't 'running'. Despite the short distance (~1/2 mile), it sticks out in my mind as a particularly nasty bushwhack.

Great write up. Thanks for posting.

Courtesy of climbingwashington.com

Great wall and great TR. This wall is highly recommended. :tup:

I think I know that road that road. It hits the old CCC road, which I believe, is just a trail now, and then continues up South Bessemer on logging roads. I don't know of it ever reconnecting with the Middle Fork Road though, which probably isn't an issue since its gated at the MFR anyways . However, if you are thinking about biking in this might be an option worth exploring.

I do exactly the same thing. These pants are hardy and breathe well. In the Summer I'll wear some nylon shorts, preferably with a Hawaiian floral design, and put the softshell pants when it gets chilly or I plan on glissading.

There I am, age 12. Good times. We didn't really need the rope, but my buddy thought it would be fun for me to get some practice.

I cut my teeth climbing the simple peaks in the easily accessible Tatoosh Range. There are tons of great snow climbs for folks of any skill level. Plummer Peak is a great one. With year round access to Narada Falls these makes good first winter climbs too. Get out there!

Just a note on the OR Alibis (not the alpine alibis which look better), they fit really tight. I understand that's part of the point of a dry tool glove, but my hands were colder with these on due to a lack of circulation than they were with nothing at all. I was wearing an XL too and my hands aren't THAT large.

Thanks, Layton. I'm the guy who bought your old Ice Sac. The one with the hippie flag on it. Is there any sort of cc.com equivalent here? While the ice here is more easily accessed in the winter, I have a pretty poor opinion of the alpine climbing here compared to the cascades.

Hey all, I don't ski, and ice climbing is only an acceptable substitute for alpine climbing some of the time. Can any of you make recommendations for alpine routes in the Wasatch? I have done quite a few routes in the area but am always looking for something new. Thanks!

Thanks for the approach beta, those of us with short weekends appreciate the heads up.

My input, which is worth what you paid for it, is that there is still considerable amounts of snow up there. On the Eldorado approach we hit snow a week ago monday at about 5,000ft. I was glad to be in my mountaineering boots, but I wasn't doing any fifth class climbing either... Sorry if that is not much help. Have fun and post a tr.

How long is the loop? I've been up both trail and would guess somewhere around 12 miles... Just out of curiosity, how long does it take you? Another good one is pratt lake trailhead over defiance to the end of the ridge. The obvious downside is that its out and back.

PM me if you are interested in some alpine tomorrow (Monday). I had thought about little T, Rainier or Eldorado but I am flexible. Thanks!

That guys a peak bagging legend. All should give homage.

Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully scramble low-fifth Date: 6/26/2008 Trip Report: My brother called me Thursday around 9 and said he was heading to Ellensburg to deliver checks for his boss, he wanted to know if I wanted a ride to the pass. Of course I did. I grabbed my backpack, prepacked for just such an occasion. Around 10:15 I was dropped off below the talus field which climbs to the obvious west face of guye peak. I stuck to the snow on the right hand side of the talus field for a quick jaunt up to the south shoulder where a deer tried to hit me with some choss he knocked off. I traversed and ascended on snow through the trees under the south rib to the base of the south gulley. The climbing was surprisingly fun. I stayed mostly on the rib just right of the gulley where the climbing was solid and at times steep. There were a couple steps of low fifth class, but nothing of any serious difficulty. The view towards Chair Peak: Despite the reputation I found the rock solid and juggy. The views onto I-90 and eastwards were nice. Near the top rainier popped out the complete the experience. There was still a little bit of snow on top and on the descent. I don't know what the secret is on the descent, however I would imagine staying on the south side of the stream would be beneficial as I enjoyed a bushwack descent combined with tree branch reppelling to get down on the north side. I emerged from the brush just as my brother drove past to park in the apental parking lot where I found him 5 minutes later. Round trip about 2 hours. If you don't have much time or a partner, this is a fun little climb which probably doesn't see too much action. Gear Notes: Ice Axe MP3 Approach Notes: none. thats the beauty.

sweet pics.

Sweet tr! Thanks. How high was the snowline?

Left side.

Snow was deep on Sherpa. Coming down we were plunging up to our knees. No cornice to speak of. Ross, did you ski the trail into Colchuck? On my way in I kept thinking about what a nightmare it would have been, since it was so hardpacked and trees so close to the trail. There were plenty of tracks headed towards Colchuck lake.